fashionologie

Anna Wintour Wants to See Rodarte Design for Schiaparelli, and Other Sundry Details from the Mulleavys' New Yorker Profile

fashionologie — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 09:33:44 PST

>> In the Jan. 18, 2010 edition of the New Yorker, Amanda Fortini profiles Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte and their quest to go against your typical "high gloss, high fashion, glamour, put-together, shiny, perfect - everything too exact" label, in the words of Laura. The Fall 2009 thigh-high wraparound boots Nicholas Kirkwood created for Rodarte, for example, were meant to evoke "hands wrapped in plastic in a morgue."

Kate told the magazine, "The most unhappy Laura or I have ever been was when we heard we made 'a pretty dress.' We want to make people think, and, once you decide to do that, you will have people that don't like what you're doing." She later added, "The other day, we were laughing that if we could take our clothes and bury them, and in ten years take them out, we would actually be satisfied [with how they look]."

Anna Wintour gives her two cents »

fashionologie — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 13:00:22 PDT

>> INSIDER WIRE -It sounds like Olivier Theyskens won't be heading to Schiaparelli after all: the label's owner, Diego Della Valle, now says he doesn't plan to revive the house before 2011; originally he was aiming for 2010. It's doubtful that Theyskens would want to wait two years before his next runway show, and Della Valle verifies that no designer has been chosen to head up Schiaparelli. “This is not the right time . . . I hope that markets will have stabilized when we are ready for Schiaparelli." [WWD]

Rumor: Karl Lagerfeld to Step Down at Chanel, With Alber Elbaz Stepping In?

fashionologie — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 10:11:07 PDT

>> While Karl Lagerfeld is preparing for the Chanel Fall 2009 couture show on July 7 - which he plans to hold at sunset in the Grand Palais - rumors are swirling about his future at the company. Although he has said in the past that he doesn't plan to retire, it's circling that he will not renew his contract at Chanel, that Alber Elbaz will take his place, and Olivier Theyskens will take Alber's place at Lanvin.

Diane Pernet says both choices "make perfect sense" to her, but why would Alber, who has brought Lanvin profit through wearable clothes, be replaced with Olivier Theyskens, who is hardly known for wearable designs? Anna Wintour is close friends with Karl Lagerfeld - but close enough to convince him to step down so she can find placement for Olivier Theyskens?

Diane also adds that she heard that Schiaparelli, which is expected to relaunch next year at earliest, has decided to switch directions and focus on a less expensive line.

fashionologie — Mon, 04 May 2009 13:33:24 PDT

>> INSIDER WIRE -Olivier Theyskens has been spotted around New York - earlier today he even went in for a manicure - but details are still swirling about where he'll land professionally. Will it be Schiaparelli? Will it be Halston? Will he end up with his own line? The latest is that Anna Wintour wants him in New York - to keep him close under her watchful eye, no doubt - and Halston seems to be her placement of choice. The brand has also looked at Narciso Rodriguez and Marios Schwab for the creative director position. [WWD]
*image: source

Peter Copping Officially Taking Over at Nina Ricci

fashionologie — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:26:26 PDT

>> Not that it was expected any other way - Olivier is officially gone from the brand and sources have been pinpointing him as next in line for months - but now it's official: Peter Copping is the new artistic director at Nina Ricci.

He started at the brand on Monday and is already hard at work on a capsule resort collection, which is expected to be unveiled in late June. It sounds like his first Nina Ricci runway show won't be in the Fall, but rather in March 2010 - the company wants to give him time to settle in (and hopefully get it right, considering that he's the third designer they've had within a span of three years - Theyskens started in 2006, and Lars Nilsson was in place before that).

But he already has plenty of ideas »

Fashion In 50 Seconds 04/14/09 Oscar Smoothes Things Over & More

coutorture — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 07:03:42 PDT

Oscar de la Renta quelled backlash from his comments about Michelle Obama by appearing on "The View" last night.

Rick Owens opened his first flagship in London and has plans to open a store in Tokyo in September.

The Converse by John Varvatos women's line is being discontinued, although the footwear and men's lines will remain.

Rumors that Oliver Theyskens is headed for Halston are being met with rumors that he is poised for Schiaparelli.

fashionologie — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 16:52:59 PDT

>> INSIDER WIRE -Despite word last week that Halston is poised to poach Olivier Theyskens, those rumors that he might be taking the helm at Schiaparelli are still persisting. We won't know anything until official word comes, but Diane Pernet cites "a very good source" saying that Olivier will be relaunching the house for owner Diego Della Valle; Theyskens's aesthetic certainly seemed more aligned with Schiaparelli than Halston. [A Shaded View on Fashion]
*image: source

Olivier Theyskens Officially Out at Nina Ricci

fashionologie — Mon, 16 Mar 2009 11:57:32 PDT

>> All signs pointed to Olivier Theyskens's imminent exit from Nina Ricci, and now it's official: house and designer released a joint statement revealing that Olivier is gone as of March 10, despite the fact that his contract goes through October.

Neither Theyskens or Ricci would comment beyond the statement, in which the house indicated it “wishes to re-orientate its development strategy for the years to come. Consequently, Nina Ricci and its artistic director Olivier Theyksens have decided by mutual agreement to cease their collaboration.” All signs point to Peter Copping, top design deputy at Louis Vuitton, being tasked with the reorientation as Olivier's replacement, but no mention of him was made in the statement, and thus no word on when he will be transitioning over for his first Ricci collection.

So what's next for Olivier? »

Miuccia Prada Is Not Thrilled About Her Upcoming Met Exhibit

Christina Perez — Tue, 17 Jan 2012 10:30:34 PST

>> Miuccia Prada doesn't agree with the way the Costume Institute is comparing her with Elsa Schiaparelli in their upcoming exhibit. "It's too formal; they are focused on similarities, comparing feather with feather, ethnic with ethnic, but they are not taking into consideration that we are talking about two different eras, and that [Schiaparelli and I] are total opposite," Prada said backstage at her menswear show this past weekend in Milan. "I told them, but they don't care." The exhibit, entitled Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada: On Fashion, opens May 10 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.

Miuccia Prada, Elsa Schiaparelli Reported Focus for 2012 Costume Institute Gala

fashionologie — Mon, 29 Aug 2011 14:14:47 PDT

>> After this year's record-breaking Alexander McQueen-themed exhibit, what will the Costume Institute pick to focus on for the 2012 gala and exhibit? WWD reports hearing that Miuccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli will be the focus, but further details could not be learned, and the Met declined comment on the matter. [WWD]