>> INSIDER WIRE —It sounds like Olivier Theyskens won't be heading to Schiaparelli after all: the label's owner, Diego Della Valle, now says he doesn't plan to revive the house before 2011; originally he was aiming for 2010.  It's doubtful that Theyskens would want to wait two years before his next runway show, and Della Valle verifies that no designer has been chosen to head up Schiaparelli. “This is not the right time . . . I hope that markets will have stabilized when we are ready for Schiaparelli." [WWD]

>> While Karl Lagerfeld is preparing for the Chanel Fall 2009 couture show on July 7 — which he plans to hold at sunset in the Grand Palais — rumors are swirling about his future at the company. Although he has said in the past that he doesn't plan to retire, it's circling that he will not renew his contract at Chanel, that Alber Elbaz will take his place, and Olivier Theyskens will take Alber's place at Lanvin.

Diane Pernet says both choices "make perfect sense" to her, but why would Alber, who has brought Lanvin profit through wearable clothes, be replaced with Olivier Theyskens, who is hardly known for wearable designs?  Anna Wintour is close friends with Karl Lagerfeld — but close enough to convince him to step down so she can find placement for Olivier Theyskens?

Diane also adds that she heard that Schiaparelli, which is expected to relaunch next year at earliest, has decided to switch directions and focus on a less expensive line.

>> INSIDER WIRE —Olivier Theyskens has been spotted around New York — earlier today he even went in for a manicure — but details are still swirling about where he'll land professionally. Will it be Schiaparelli?  Will it be Halston? Will he end up with his own line?  The latest is that Anna Wintour wants him in New York — to keep him close under her watchful eye, no doubt — and Halston seems to be her placement of choice.  The brand has also looked at Narciso Rodriguez and Marios Schwab for the creative director position. [WWD]
*image: source

>> Not that it was expected any other way — Olivier is officially gone from the brand and sources have been pinpointing him as next in line for months — but now it's official: Peter Copping is the new artistic director at Nina Ricci.

He started at the brand on Monday and is already hard at work on a capsule resort collection, which is expected to be unveiled in late June.  It sounds like his first Nina Ricci runway show won't be in the Fall, but rather in March 2010 — the company wants to give him time to settle in (and hopefully get it right, considering that he's the third designer they've had within a span of three years — Theyskens started in 2006, and Lars Nilsson was in place before that).   

But he already has plenty of ideas »

>> INSIDER WIRE —Despite word last week that Halston is poised to poach Olivier Theyskens, those rumors that he might be taking the helm at Schiaparelli are still persisting.  We won't know anything until official word comes, but Diane Pernet cites "a very good source" saying that Olivier will be relaunching the house for owner Diego Della Valle; Theyskens's aesthetic certainly seemed more aligned with Schiaparelli than Halston. [A Shaded View on Fashion]
*image: source

>> All signs pointed to Olivier Theyskens's imminent exit from Nina Ricci, and now it's official: house and designer released a joint statement revealing that Olivier is gone as of March 10, despite the fact that his contract goes through October.

Neither Theyskens or Ricci would comment beyond the statement, in which the house indicated it “wishes to re-orientate its development strategy for the years to come.  Consequently, Nina Ricci and its artistic director Olivier Theyksens have decided by mutual agreement to cease their collaboration.”  All signs point to Peter Copping, top design deputy at Louis Vuitton, being tasked with the reorientation as Olivier's replacement, but no mention of him was made in the statement, and thus no word on when he will be transitioning over for his first Ricci collection.

So what's next for Olivier? »