fashionologie

Watch Loic Prigent's New Carine Roitfeld Documentary Film, Feted Last Night

fashionologie — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 12:44:11 PST

>> Last night, Stefano Tonchi and Carine Roitfeld unveiled "The Client," a 13-minute documentary focusing on Roitfeld, at the Cultural Services of the French Embassy on Fifth Avenue in New York City. The film was produced after director Loic Prigent followed Roitfeld around the most recent Paris couture week - to the shows, couture fittings with everyone from Azzedine Alaia to Jean Paul Gaultier, and then finally at a W shoot for which she models the couture looks she chose.

Watch the full film - in which Roitfeld jokes that couture models are "fat" compared to her and then calls up Karl Lagerfeld to help her decide which Chanel dress to wear for the shoot - below.

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A Preview of W's September Issue - Edward Enninful and Lori Goldstein's First

fashionologie — Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:49:32 PDT

>> W's September 2011 issue - which marks Edward Enninful's first full issue as the magazine's fashion and style director and Lori Goldstein's as style editor-at-large - doesn't hit newsstands until Aug. 23, but we've got a preview of its innards. Goldstein works with Guinevere van Seenus on a colorful, jewelry-centric spread; Mario Sorrenti captures Sasha Pivovarova and Freja Beha Erichsen in a comic book-bright piece; and Edward Enninful transforms Kristen Stewart into a bombshell for the issue's cover.

Among the September issue's other highlights: Steven Klein photographs Amber Valletta evolving from 20 to 120 years old with the help of prosthetic makeup; Tim Blanks profiles Phoebe Philo; Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott snap a fetishistic spread - with Lara Stone, Joan Smalls, and Tao Okamoto - inspired by Helmut Newton and The Night Porter; and Enninful, Steven Meisel, and makeup artist Pat McGrath collaborate on "Transformers," featuring models turned into heroines from the past. Think Linda Evangelista as Zizi Jeanmaire, Karen Elson as Judy Garland, Raquel Zimmermann as Babe Paley, and Jessica Stam as Gala Dali.

Gallery is NSFW.

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See Which Fashion Magazine Covers Have Sold Best - and Worst - So Far in 2011

fashionologie — Wed, 10 Aug 2011 08:45:58 PDT

>> Vogue was the only American fashion magazine to show a newsstand sales increase in the first half of 2011, thanks to its March Lady Gaga cover. The pink-haired Gaga image drove sales up by more than 100,000 copies over the March 2010 Vogue issue, which featured Tina Fey on the cover; and overall, the magazine averaged 360,000 copies at the newsstand during the first half of this year, up 12.7 percent.

Harper's Bazaar, meanwhile - which was up 10 percent during the first half of last year when the rest of fashion magazines were down - dropped 14.3 percent to 137,117. “It would be a lot easier if we could feature proven sellers like Jennifer Aniston or Gwyneth Paltrow on the cover every month, but we took some risks this year and tried stars that were a little outside of the norm for us, and they didn’t always translate into newsstand sales,” editor-in-chief Glenda Bailey admitted. Among those departures: Julianna Margulies for January 2011, Kim Kardashian for March 2011, and Courteney Cox for April 2011.

W - which has never relied on newsstand sales - was down 11.8 percent to 19,006, and Elle was down 9 percent to 250,056. See the big four's best and worst-selling covers for the first half of 2011 in the slideshow.

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Vogue Tops Other Fashion Magazines in September Ad Pages, Has Plans for a New Website

fashionologie — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 09:20:35 PDT

>> Vogue's September 2011 issue will boast 584 ad pages, with an increase of 50 pages - or 9.3 percent - over its September 2010 issue (By comparison, Vogue had its all-time high - pre-recession - in 2007, with 727 ad pages.). Elle's September 2011 issue was down 6.8 percent to 350 ad pages; Harper's Bazaar came in at 308, a 2.2 percent gain; and W increased 3 percent to 255 pages. When announcing the magazine's numbers yesterday, Vogue publisher Susan Plagemann added that Vogue plans to roll out another website aside from Vogue.com in December, but she wouldn't give further details. [Ad Week]

Hermes Wanted Helmut Lang to Replace Jean Paul Gaultier

fashionologie — Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:04:50 PDT

>> Helmut Lang seems pretty set about not coming back to fashion - he recently shredded the remains of his archives for an art exhibition - but that doesn't mean he isn't still being pursued. Apparently, after Jean Paul Gaultier decided to leave Hermes in May 2010, Lang was the firm favorite to replace Gaultier as Hermes creative director, W reports. But: When Hermes courted Lang, he refused - he wanted to continue his newfound career as an artist instead of returning to fashion - and the job instead went to Christophe Lemaire.

While Hermes womenswear contributes less than 10 percent of the brand's annual turnover, it does have a symbolic significance in the media and how the brand is viewed. And speaking of views, another Hermes family member has spoken out about Bernard Arnault and the threat of an LVMH takeover. Pierre-Alexis Dumas, the company's group artistic director, tells W: “Hermes has grown out of a family culture with a set of values that we all believe in. I am convinced it would disappear if the family dimension was taken away or diluted. You know, there have been a lot of very good, small restaurants in Paris that have been bought by big chains over the years, usually in the name of better management. But somehow their clients have stopped going, because they have lost their souls ... This whole situation has been an incentive to work even harder. I have told everybody, ‘Listen, guys - it’s time to be more Hermes than ever.’”

Edward Enninful Has Big Plans for W's September Issue

fashionologie — Fri, 17 Jun 2011 09:57:57 PDT

>> W's new fashion and style editor Edward Enninful won't make his full debut for the magazine until September, but his stamp can already be seen on the magazine's July 2011 cover featuring Christina Aguilera, he says: "I was involved with Christina. I worked with our contributing editor Giovanna Battaglia on the look and the photography and also Lynn Hirschberg. And I wanted to show Christina in a new light, show off the icon that she is."

As for his future plans for the magazine: "We'll continue to work with photographers like Craig McDean, Patrick Demarchelier, Mario Sorrenti, Inez and Vinoodh, Mert and Marcus, but we also have a few big names in the pipeline and you'll see it in the coming months, particularly in September ... The September issue will be first big issue for myself, along with Alex Gonzalez, the creative director, and sort of Giovanna Battaglia, whom we offered to be fashion editor and hopefully a few other editors. And we're going to feature the industry's biggest names and well-known photographers. I think you'll be pleased. And what I love about this sort of blend of photographers is that each one has their own unique style. So if it's okay I'd like to keep their names under wrap just to surprise our readers. It's really hard to keep anything secret these days. But I try."

Lori Goldstein Named W Style Editor at Large

fashionologie — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 09:35:53 PDT

>> Just six weeks after Edward Enninful joined W as fashion and style director, his former colleague at Vogue Italia, Lori Goldstein, has joined the magazine as style editor at large. Goldstein has been a free agent for years, and noted that taking a masthead title and “being more of a part of a magazine, which is something I’ve never done, is very exciting to me.”

She continued: “What’s so great about what I’m doing in being style editor at large it’s kind of like I get to encompass everything I love to do. I’ve always been one of those people that goes back and forth in this business in different ways, so I get to really do great fashion stories with Edward and I’m also going to be working with [editor at large] Lynn Hirschberg and bringing fashion into the element of the actors that we shoot and kind of being the thread through all the different areas.”

Goldstein will work exclusively for W and can't work for competitors (ie other American fashion monthlies) but can work for non-direct competitors like Vogue Italia if given approval by W editor Stefano Tonchi. Tonchi said in a statement: “I have an incredible amount of respect for Lori, and admire her imagination and impeccable taste. Even on a freelance basis, Lori has been an integral part of the new W. She has styled some of our best covers, including Michelle Williams and Ryan Gosling, Mia Wasikowska, and January Jones. Given the recent expansion of W’s fashion team, I thought it was the perfect moment in time to formalize this relationship."

With Goldstein now in the W fold, is it possible that her frequent collaborator Steven Meisel might also become a regular contributor to the magazine? “We will see,” she replied coyly.

Charlotte Stockdale Headed To i-D

fashionologie — Mon, 23 May 2011 08:16:05 PDT

>> Edward Enninful, who left contributing fashion editor gigs at Vogue and Vogue Italia behind this month to become W's new fashion and style director, has also exited his position as fashion director at i-D, which he has held since 1991, when he was 18. His replacement is reportedly the stylist Charlotte Stockdale, who has worked with i-D in the past and whose clients have ranged from Fendi to the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show. Enninful's first issue for W, meanwhile, will be the September 2011 issue. [@fashedatlarge, @EdwardEnninful]

W Fashion and Style Director Alex White Steps Down, Replaced by Edward Enninful

fashionologie — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 06:23:02 PDT

>> W fashion and style director Alex White, one of the last vestiges of the old guard at the magazine, is to be replaced by Edward Enninful, effective May 1. White, who held the position for 16 years, decided to step down to pursue a range of fashion and lifestyle projects in both digital and social media.

According to W editor Stefano Tonchi, the decision for White to leave was mutual: “Alex is a fantastic stylist and has done incredible work over the years. Everyone at W is grateful to Alex for creating such memorable fashion portfolios, and for the significant mark she has left on the magazine . . . She’s thinking very much about her own brand - the Alex White brand - and at a certain point that’s no longer what W is about.”

White agreed that they were "totally on the same page": “My 16 years at W have been thrilling. I’ve worked with wildly talented people and helped produce a gorgeous magazine. I was delighted to stay and help Stefano through his first, transitional year, and am looking forward new beginnings . . . I helped with getting over the hump. Now it’s time for me to continue my freelance and explore the other things I’m working on, including digital projects." Tonchi indicated that White is thinking about starting her own magazine, possibly online. White had recently been experimenting with her own column online, Alex White Edits, on W's website.

Tonchi and Enninful, meanwhile, hit it off while seated next to each other at a Balenciaga dinner during Paris Fashion Week a couple of months ago, Tonchi says: “I didn’t really think about hiring him, I just thought he was incredibly joyful.” They began discussing a job at W earlier this month and moved quickly from there.

"This is the beginning of a new era at W, and I couldn’t be more delighted to be a part of it,” said Enninful. And Tonchi added: "I'm thrilled that Edward is joining our team, and am confident that he will bring a great deal of creativity, professionalism, and industry knowledge with him."

Enninful, who has been a contributing fashion editor at Vogue since 2005 and at Vogue Italia since 1998, is ending those engagements. “Now I’m going to be focusing my editorial prowess on W,” he explained. “Whenever a relationship ends it’s very sad."

Eddie Borgo Welcomes Giovanna Battaglia to New York with Celebratory Dinner

fashionologie — Wed, 20 Apr 2011 15:27:02 PDT

>> Giovanna Battaglia, who moved four weeks ago to New York and has started working more with W, was thrown a welcoming dinner last night at The Upstairs at Cipriani Downtown by Eddie Borgo and his boyfriend, stylist Keegan Singh. Battaglia wore an “I Heart New York” t-shirt studded all across the front by Borgo (left), and celebrated with the likes of Gaia Repossi, Vladimir and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, and Joseph Altuzarra. W's Joseph Logan designed t-shirts that were passed out, proclaiming “New York Loves Gio,” one of which Altuzarra then customized for Battaglia with a pair of scissors. [W]