fashionologie

Anna Dello Russo Has Styled and Edited a Capsule Collection for Macy's

fashionologie — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 11:24:09 PDT

>> Anna Dello Russo both styled and appears in the new campaign for Macy's private label brand INC - alongside Karolina Kurkova. But as the contemporary label's editor-at-large, Dello Russo's involvement doesn't end there: she "edited" a capsule collection of ready-to-wear and accessories for Macy's INC - including red and yellow cropped peacoats, color-blocked tunics, a cropped red fur chubby, all of which can be seen in the ads.

"I’ve edited so many things in my life, the mass market is another challenge for me,” said Dello Russo of the line, which is priced $30 to $139. “I wanted to see if I could push forward in a new way and Macy’s for me represents the biggest of American shopping institutions.”

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Edward Enninful Has Big Plans for W's September Issue

fashionologie — Fri, 17 Jun 2011 09:57:57 PDT

>> W's new fashion and style editor Edward Enninful won't make his full debut for the magazine until September, but his stamp can already be seen on the magazine's July 2011 cover featuring Christina Aguilera, he says: "I was involved with Christina. I worked with our contributing editor Giovanna Battaglia on the look and the photography and also Lynn Hirschberg. And I wanted to show Christina in a new light, show off the icon that she is."

As for his future plans for the magazine: "We'll continue to work with photographers like Craig McDean, Patrick Demarchelier, Mario Sorrenti, Inez and Vinoodh, Mert and Marcus, but we also have a few big names in the pipeline and you'll see it in the coming months, particularly in September ... The September issue will be first big issue for myself, along with Alex Gonzalez, the creative director, and sort of Giovanna Battaglia, whom we offered to be fashion editor and hopefully a few other editors. And we're going to feature the industry's biggest names and well-known photographers. I think you'll be pleased. And what I love about this sort of blend of photographers is that each one has their own unique style. So if it's okay I'd like to keep their names under wrap just to surprise our readers. It's really hard to keep anything secret these days. But I try."

Will Kate Moss Be in Louis Vuitton's Fall 2011 Ad Campaign? Plus, More Casting Rumors

fashionologie — Tue, 12 Apr 2011 12:33:05 PDT

>> The latest Fall 2011 campaign scuttlebutt: Isabeli Fontana is taking the early lead, with campaigns for Escada and Donna Karan booked, and a rumored appearance for Bottega Veneta as well. Karan's campaign, which was captured by Patrick Demarchelier the past three seasons, was snapped by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin for Fall 2011.

Meanwhile, Steven Meisel shot (and Karl Templer styled) the Fall 2011 Louis Vuitton campaign in New York yesterday - but there will reportedly be no Kate Moss appearance as there was on the runway. In fact, no supermodels will be featured at all: Instead, the six models chosen are said to be from the current generation - "Top 50-ish, a bit new. Nothing from the Icon list." Daphne Groeneveld and Fei Fei Sun are rumored to be among them.

Kate Moss has reportedly been cast for another Fall 2011 campaign for Mango; however, it will be shot by Terry Richardson and is today, making lots of appearances on his blog.

Versace, like Donna Karan, is also switching up photographers - after going with Mario Testino for the past eight seasons, Donatella Versace has chosen Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott to do the Fall 2011 honors (with styling by Joe McKenna). Originally, the Versace campaign, like Vuitton, was reportedly supposed to feature six models, including Candice Swanepoel and Groeneveld, but the photographers are rumored to have settled instead on one girl with "short dark hair" who is a "cover star." Some are thinking that might indicate Saskia de Brauw as Versace's new girl.

To round out the Fall 2011 campaign placements so far, Juergen Teller shot Irina Kulikova yesterday for Moschino at Turin's Ristorante del Cambio, Ralph Lauren has reportedly cast its runway opener Sui He, and Liu Wen is rumored to be in the upcoming Dolce & Gabbana campaign.

A few images from the various shoots in the gallery.

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Watch Inez and Vinoodh's "Girls on Film" Video for Vogue Paris, Featuring Anja Rubik, Natasha Poly, and Isabeli Fontana

fashionologie — Wed, 06 Apr 2011 11:19:33 PDT

>> Vogue Paris had Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin produced a stylized behind-the-scenes video of their October 2010 "The Party" editorial to celebrate the magazine's 90th anniversary and its newly-launched iPad application. Although the Emmanuelle Alt-styled editorial ran last October, the video - which features Isabeli Fontana, Natasha Poly, and Anja Rubik vamping to the Duran Duran song "Girls on Film" - just got uploaded to YouTube a couple of days ago, a fact van Lamsweerde pointed out on Twitter: "Did any of you ever see this video we did in 2010? Count the fashion shoot clichés!more to come.kisses Inez ."

Carine Roitfeld Styles Fall 2011 Chanel Ads; Plus, a Few More Campaign Tidbits

fashionologie — Tue, 05 Apr 2011 12:11:23 PDT

>> Carine Roitfeld isn't totally letting go of her French roots, despite teaming up with Barneys stateside for a multifaceted Fall 2010 initiative; she also styled Chanel's Fall 2011 campaign, which Karl Lagerfeld just shot in Paris. Featured is perennial Chanel face Freja Beha Erichsen - Fall 2011 marks her fifth consecutive campaign for the house but her first solo. “The mix with Freja was genius,” Lagerfeld promises.

Lagerfeld is also repeating a face at Fendi- he's shooting Anja Rubik for her fourth straight campaign next week (“I like to work with the same girls and boys all the time,” he quips.). As is Michael Kors, who tapped Karmen Pedaru for the second time in a row, posting a picture from the Fall 2011 campaign shoot yesterday on his official Facebook. Over at Yves Saint Laurent, meanwhile, the supporting team is the same - Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin behind the lens and Joe McKenna styling - but Raquel Zimmerman is reportedly the Fall 2011 subject, replacing Spring 2011's Arizona Muse.

But back to Lagerfeld: in preparation of the upcoming Chanel Cruise 2012 fashion show in Antibes on May 9, he's gathering Erichsen, Lady Amanda Harlech, Anna Mouglalis, and Kristen McMenamy to star in his annual Chanel Cruise short film. This one, he's shooting in Monaco and the South of France.

A Look Inside Emmanuelle Alt's First Vogue Paris Issue

fashionologie — Wed, 23 Mar 2011 12:57:38 PDT

>> Although Emmanuelle Alt says her full vision for Vogue Paris won't be felt until the August 2011 issue, the April 2011 issue marks her first as editor-in-chief of the magazine. Already, she's made some changes - expanded beauty coverage, simpler layouts and typography, a bigger commitment to feature articles among them. And she has plenty more in mind: “I want to show in French Vogue more and more a lot of clothes." In fact, of this first issue, she says: "It’s simple fashion. You can see the clothes perfectly.”

She plans to continue devoting covers largely to models, but will require them to show less skin than they did under Carine Roitfeld's eye. “One boob,” she says of this first issue: “Otherwise, you don’t recognize it’s French Vogue.” And instead of Roitfeld's edgier vision, Alt says: “I want the Vogue to become very feminine. Women are very interested in fashion and beauty.” She's also recruiting a new team of freelance stylists: “I want to have new people working for the magazine. I also want to push some young stylists: all the girls who have been trained by French Vogue.” A look at the outcome - Alt's first issue - in the slideshow.

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Will Emmanuelle Alt's Second Vogue Paris Cover Also Feature a Supermodel?

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Mar 2011 11:23:13 PDT

>> Emmanuelle Alt's first Vogue Paris cover - for April 2011 - came out last week, with Gisele Bundchen photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin in a white Dolce & Gabbana dress - a dress that has also been recently featured on the covers of Vogue Spain and Germany. Is Alt planning to go the supermodel route again for May, her second cover? Apparently she recently styled Kate Moss in a haute couture editorial for Vogue Paris's May issue - shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott in London. It seems unlikely that the shoot wouldn't come with a cover deal, and Moss is, after all, among the coterie of Alt's favored models. [Telegraph UK]

Jean Paul Gaultier Has Taken Quite a Liking to Androgynous Male Model Andrej Pejic

fashionologie — Wed, 26 Jan 2011 08:21:57 PST

>> Jean Paul Gaultier seems quite enamored with androgynous male model Andrej Pejic - late last week, Gaultier had Pejic walk his men's show both as a man (with Veronica Lake-like hair), and then as a woman (closing the show in a fur gilet and high heels). Then, Gaultier's Spring 2011 women's campaign debuted yesterday, showing Pejic with lookalike Karolina Kurkova - both in fishnets and matching trenchcoats - as photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. And finally, word is that Pejic just walked Gaultier's Spring 2011 couture show as bride - perhaps the first time ever that a man has worn the couture bride's dress.

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Gisele Bundchen to Appear on Emmanuelle Alt's First Vogue Paris Cover

fashionologie — Mon, 24 Jan 2011 09:52:26 PST

>> Emmanuelle Alt made her front row debut as Vogue Paris editor at Alexis Mabille's couture show this morning. Alt's name appears on top of the magazine's masthead starting with the April 2011 issue, which will feature Gisele Bundchen on the cover, photographed in St. Barts by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. However, it apparently won't be until the August 2011 issue that the magazine completely reflects Alt's new direction. [WWD]

Stefano Pilati Is a Glee Fan, Has "A Nice Tension" with Yves Saint Laurent's CEO

fashionologie — Thu, 20 Jan 2011 14:42:05 PST

>> Stefano Pilati has an appreciation for things like Pee-Wee Herman, Glee, Rihanna, and LCD Soundsystem (which now provides music for Yves Saint Laurent's shows), but he also knows how to get serious. Yves Saint Laurent's sales have gone from nearly $100 million in losses to a profit, he tells W's February 2011 issue - not that it's been easy.

Because the label's founder so transcended fashion, Pilati says, he feels obliged to design to a higher standard - creating collections to build a woman's wardrobe over time rather than capturing a moment. His debut Yves Saint Laurent collection, he explains, “was the first time in my career that I didn’t think about a theme, when I started to think about something that could be timeless. I said to myself, You need to be relevant to a different level now. You can’t be only ‘I like red, and clogs instead of moccasins.’”

Working at Yves Saint Laurent has also made Pilati think about more than just the clothes he wants to create. "I’m not a businessman,” he says, “but I’ve become one by necessity.” It's routine for fashion brands to give accessories prime real estate in their ad campaigns - because handbags and shoes account for such a large percentage of their businesses. But Inez van Lamsweerde, who photographs Pilati's YSL ads every season with her husband, Vinoodh Matadin, says: “In the beginning, we almost had to beg him to put a bag in the picture. He said, ‘No, with this dress, you would not wear a bag - that’s not chic; that’s not how it works.’” Pilati has learned since - the latest Saint Laurent ads show Arizona Muse, bag in plain view.

When Pilati is asked whether he wishes he had a business partner counterpart like Pierre Berge to take all the commercial aspects off his hands, he replies: “It would be fantastic to be purely creative. Still, you want to walk in the street and see people wearing your clothes, and to do that you have to direct your creativity. So you already fulfill a part of what we think about as marketing from a commercial point of view. Giving the pantsuit to women - that was creative and instinctive, but it was also supported by the fact that women needed it, and, Berge or no Berge, Saint Laurent was the one who did it. The role of Berge, or today of the CEO, is to create a structure that can help your objective and sell the idea.”

There have been rumors about Pilati's standing at the company, but YSL CEO Valerie Hermann describes her relationship with Pilati as “a nice tension.” They have “constructive confrontations,” she says, but: “I’m learning from what he’s saying and listening with respect. What’s most important is that we always agree about where we want to go with the brand, and the confrontation is about how to get there.”

Pilati breaks his relationship with Hermann down as thus: "The roles are by nature split in the sense that the CEO has to respond to a group with numbers and performance and budget and business plans, while the creative director is almost at the service of the CEO. In those days, Saint Laurent was doing the tuxedo, and Berge helped him sell it. Now we live in a moment when we need to thank the CEO. I’m doing the bags, I’m doing the shoes, I’m doing the satin dresses, I’m doing the tuxedo, but if the performance of the brand is good, it’s because it has been managed well, and that includes managing the creative director.”