fashionologie

Alexander Wang Takes Home 2009 Swiss Textile Award; Kate Mulleavy On Why Her Label Is Called "Rodarte," Not "Mulleavy"

fashionologie — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 09:37:42 -0800

>> Alexander Wang is experiencing quite the winning streak - he was awarded the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund of $200,000 last November, the 2009 CFDA Swarovski Womenswear winner this past June, and now he's taking home the 2009 Swiss Textiles Award, a prize of about $150,000, to go towards international development. Wang becomes the second American designer in a row to win the Swiss Textiles Award, following after Rodarte, who were the first American winners ever last year.

The jury this year, chaired by Isabel Toledo, apparently had a tough time making a decision - Wang's fellow finalists this year were Peter Pilotto, Erdem, Thakoon, Alexis Mabille, and Ohne Titel, who will each receive a prize of approximately $6,000.

Former winners, Raf Simons, Kate Mulleavy sound off »

fashionologie — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 13:30:02 -0800

>> Thakoon Does Jewelry for Tasaki; Moises de la Renta Rumored for Mango -Just as his contract with Hogan has expired, Thakoon has taken up a new responsibility: creative director for Japanese fine jeweler Tasaki, the world's biggest pearl supplier. This is his first major foray into jewelry, and the Thakoon for Tasaki collection will be unveiled in February. Moises de la Renta is also reportedly on deck for a partnership - he's "about to ink a deal" with Mango. [Style File, WWD]

Thakoon Goes with Scuba Warriors for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 00:08:15 -0700

>> Thakoon got a boost earlier this year via Michelle Obama and then again later with his prominent role in The September Issue, and although Ikram Goldman (the First Lady's unofficial style advisor) was in attendance at his Spring 2010 show again today, he's still looking for ways to save costs without compromising creativity, he told Cathy Horyn last week. He ended up buying a large supply of crinkled jacquard and printing it in different patterns, lowering costs, and can use the fabric again for future collections.

As for compromising creativity, his Spring 2010 collection - full of his hallmark brightly-colored prints mixed and patchworked together, scuba-like pants, and printed heels done in collaboration with Giuseppe Zanotti - earned some comparisons to Balenciaga's Spring 2003 scuba collection, WWD reported a number of editors noting. But ultimately these days, it comes down to whether the pieces will sell - and the slashed and draped, Fortuny pleated dresses should have no problem in that arena.

Fun little sidenotes: Bee Shaffer attended the show, but Anna Wintour skipped for the US Open; and Thakoon's backstage passes were pins featuring a picture of his dog, Steve, on them.

The September Issue Premiere: All About Anna Wintour

fashionologie — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 11:57:50 -0700

>> Last night, Anna Wintour hosted a premiere of The September Issue (which opens Aug. 28 in NYC, Sept. 11 nationwide), and no one dared be late. Arrivals were scheduled to start at 7 pm, but Anna appeared and was joined (despite all the digs about her appearance she receives in the film) by September 2007 cover girl Sienna Miller promptly at 6:45 pm. Even Sean Combs and entourage, when realizing they were late, "sprinted across the lobby," the New York Observer reports.

Despite the general consensus that the film's true star is Grace Coddington, last night was all about Anna. Grace and Andre Leon Talley both avoided being photographed on the red carpet, and it appears that Vogue staffers were required to wear t-shirts for Fashion's Night Out (Anna's pro-shopping pet project) to the event. Grace did comment on her portrayal in the film, however:

I hate to say it, but true to life! A very annoying person. But it’s not really bickering. It’s a process you have to go through for the job we do and it just makes everything stronger. Whatever gets through is then very valid and very strong. I think they focused on me in the movie because I’m a bit more outspoken and because I don’t care about the cameras, I’ll say whatever I want to say and I won’t hold back.

Bee Shaffer, who attended in Proenza Schouler and reminded her mother to put on her sunglasses while on the red carpet (which Anna duly did), thought her own scene in the film was "so embarassing":

It’s funny because that was two years ago and I wanted to go to law school then and that’s basically all I’m talking about and now I don’t want to go to law school at all so . . . [I] still don’t want to work in fashion, that was never a possibility. Now I’d like to work in theater.

Marc Jacobs, who was apparently speaking with a French accent, had his own Anna tribute to share. "She’s a risk-taker unafraid of taking chances. She doesn’t suck up,” he said. “And she’s been very good to me on a personal level as well. When I was having some personal problems, Anna was always there for me. She’s very maternal and caring to people she cares about."

Alexander Wang Racks Up Another Award Nomination, Used to Use Craigslist Models

fashionologie — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 20:54:44 -0700

>> Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte became the first American designers to take home the 100,000 euro Swiss Textile Award last year, and the 2009 nominees are half American brands this time around: Thakoon Panichgul, Ohne Titel, Alexander Wang, Erdem, Alexis Mabille, and Peter Pilotto among them.

A winner will be announced Nov. 12, but in the meantime, Wang, who's been on an winning streak with the 2009 Swarovski Award for Womenswear and the 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award under his belt, recently spoke to Vogue about how he's gotten so far in such a short time.

He's known for his model selection now, but in the beginning, they came from Craigslist.

"In one of the first pictures we did, the model, who we found on Craigslist, was just wearing a sweater, slouching, and smoking a cigarette. People identified with her then, and she hasn’t changed much since.”

"When I first started, my product was definitely a lot safer . . ." »

The September Issue Trailer Is Out With More Unseen Clips!

fashionologie — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 10:40:37 -0700

>> The way that director RJ Cutler cut his new trailer for The September Issue, which covers the making of Vogue's September 2007 issue - its biggest ever - makes it like a real-life Devil Wears Prada. In this two and a half minute montage alone, Anna Wintour is revered and feared enough to carry us until movie's country-wide Sept. 11 release date. No sooner than Thakoon Panichgul proclaims "Anna is like Madonna," the editor herself is telling a disappointed-looking Oscar de la Renta at a runthrough, "I personally would not put this one in the show, the others things you've shown us are more exciting." She scolds Mario Testino about his September 2007 cover mockups with Sienna Miller: "This type seems so large and pretentious, it looks like it's for blind people." And even Karl Lagerfeld looks nervous as Anna inspects a new Chanel piece, eventually proclaiming, "It's gorgeous."

Among her own staff, Anna is just as blunt - of one mockup: "She looks pregnant." Grace Coddington excitedly holds up a neon pink and black Fall 2007 Comme des Garcons jacket from a rack for Anna: "Look!" Not missing half a beat, Anna smiles: "No." And in a meeting with stylist Edward Enninful, she looks at his work for the magazine and declares: "Where's the glamour? It's Vogue, okay? Please, let's lift it." No wonder the movie is inspiring bootleg viewing parties among editors - and Anna to supposedly have her underlings monitor the movie's Facebook page for her.

The trailer! »

CFDA Swarovski Nominees Pair with Editors and Stylist for Short Films

fashionologie — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 17:13:00 -0700

>> All 21 designers nominated for the 2009 CFDA Awards have been photographed by Craig McDean for the CFDA Journal, but the nine who are Swarovski emerging designer nominees will also be featured in individual short films, along with an editor or stylist of their choice, to be shown at the June 15 ceremony.

The shorts, directed by Michael Palmieri and still photographed by Jennifer Livingston, feature designers Thakoon Panichgul, Jason Wu (who partnered with T fashion director Anne Christensen, left), Alexander Wang, Justin Giunta (who picked Harper's Bazaar accessories director Ana Maria Pimentel), Alejandro Ingelmo, Albertus Swanepoel, Patrick Ervell (who shot with V fashion editor Jay Massacret), Tim Hamilton and Robert Geller. The films also feature editors Anne Slowey, Brian Coats, Brian Molloy, Kate Lanphear, Camilla Nickerson and Melanie Ward.

Thakoon Brings Out Prints, Pleats That Are Sure to Sell for Cruise 2010

fashionologie — Thu, 04 Jun 2009 17:36:59 -0700

>> Thakoon Panichgul may be tiny, but his designs pack major punch. His lower priced line, Thakoon Addition, just hit stores last week and is already selling like hotcakes, with a number of editors sporting the line at the Cruise 2010 shows. As for his own Cruise 2010 line, Thakoon was all about texture - twisted dresses and tops and plenty of pleats. Prints ranged from bright watercolors to faded florals, with some tie-dye mixed in for good measure. The designer knows how to take care of a woman - when his Costume Institute Gala date Magdalena Frackowiak broke her heel in the middle of dinner, he missed Rihanna's performance to go grab a replacement.

fashionologie — Wed, 13 May 2009 16:08:15 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Late last month, a group of designers, including Narciso Rodriguez, Maria Cornejo, Jason Wu, and Thakoon Panichgul, took a trip to Washington, DC accompanied by CFDA executive director Steven Kolb to lobby for an anti-piracy bill to stop mass retailers from knocking off their ideas. But when Rick Owens was recently asked if he cares that his look is being rampantly copied, his reply? "No-oo. I guess it's a compliment." [Guardian]

2009 CFDA Award Nominees Announced

fashionologie — Mon, 16 Mar 2009 16:29:41 -0700

>> The 2009 CFDA Award nominees have just been announced, and Marc Jacobs has already won an award - the International Award for his work at Louis Vuitton (he's nominated in two more categories). Last year's Swarovski Award winners, Rodarte and Band of Outsiders, have both been bumped up to compete in the respective major league categories, and 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund contenders Albertus Q. Swanepoel, Alejandro Ingelmo, and Jason Wu have all entered the Swarovski Award ring this year.

We'll have to wait until June 15 to see who wins what, but the ceremony might mark fashion's first Michelle Obama event appearance - she's being honored with this year's Board of Director's Special Tribute for her style choices and penchant for up-and-coming talent.

And now, the nominees . . . »