fashionologie

Laura and Kate Mulleavy Channel Virgin Suicide-Style Sleepwalkers for Rodarte Fall 2010

fashionologie — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 11:04:17 -0800

>> A number of designers have been doing all black for Fall 2010, but between Marc Jacobs yesterday and Rodarte today with their parade of pales, we're left wondering: is soft the new loud? The theme of the day was sleepwalkers, Laura and Kate Mulleavy said backstage, with some inspiration drawn from the Mexican border town of Juarez.

As the lights went down in the Gagosian Gallery, a centerpiece of white candles, dripping wax everywhere, was lit at the runway entrance, and white confetti was thrown on floor, causing the photographer pit to break out in a rendition of "Happy Birthday, Rodarte." Soon, a trail of girls, including Karen Elson, who's been walking a surprising number of shows this season, and Jamie Bochert, entered the smoky room, filling it with patchwork tops, Aztec eagle prints, and even a few pairs of pants. The look was very Virgin Suicides - appropriately, Kirsten Dunst was front row (along with Tavi Gevinson, Chloe Sevigny, Ryan McGinley, Natalie Portman, and Jason Schwartzman) - floaty wedding dresses with ivory and white crochet, lace chiffon, feathers, and pearls. The shoes, meant to look like the models were floating on melted candle wax, had drippings on their heels.

In true Rodarte fashion, four (instead of the usual three) white be-gowned models were left standing in stilted formation at the end; black lights were turned on for the finale procession to "Blue Moon," causing the gowns and confetti on the ground to glow blue in the dark, and revealing lights in the shoes. Cathy Horyn weighs in: "Re Rodarte, concept of randomness not fully developed or particularly novel. We've seen broken brides before. Rei?" Full video of the show can be seen here.

John Galliano Takes a Riding Crop to Spring 2010 Dior Couture, While Tavi's Giant Bow Grabs Some of the Attention

fashionologie — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 09:19:14 -0800

>> John Galliano kicked off Spring 2010 couture today with a show inspired by golden age designer Charles James (who influenced the original Christian Dior). However, much of the show's attention seems to pulled away from the clothes by the "outrageous pink bow," as one show attendee called it, on front rower Tavi Gevinson's head. A Grazia editor chimed in with "not best pleased to be watching couture through 13 year old Tavi's hat," and then posted a picture of her view from behind Tavi's Stephen Jones bow, with the caption, "Dior through Tavi's pesky hat."

But back to the runway. Riding habits and all the necessary accessories - whips and riding crops - abounded, flowing into frillier, ruffled numbers before ending in what appears to be a modern interpretation of the original Dior's Junon couture dress from Fall 1949. Galliano came out for his bow in full riding gear, dropping to one knee to kiss current Dior face Karlie Kloss's hand.

Curiously missing from the cast were Dior couture usuals Sasha Pivovarova and Natasha Poly; although Sigrid Agren and Georgina Stojiljkovic were both present after sitting last runway season out.

Rodarte, Inspired by Death Valley and Vultures, Go Goth Tribal Warrior for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:19:38 -0700

>> Laura Mulleavy told WWD she didn't sleep last night because she was so nervous about the Rodarte show - inspired by the singed Death Valley and "mangled and tattered" black vultures - today, but she had nothing to fear. The room was packed for her and her sister Kate's Spring 2010 collection debut; crunchy black sand was on the floor, dry ice smoke filled the room, and a musky scent wafted through the room as part of a collaboration with fragrance company Firmenich. The first look emerged from the silver cave opening-like set, all plaid and burnt cheesecloth. Following behind was lots of black, some feathers . . . deconstructed looks with tie dye and raw hems and patchwork. Every model had her arms painted with makeup to appear like tribal tattoes, goth lips, and their hair wrapped in webbed wool.

Tavi of Style Rookie, the Mulleavys' muse, was front row, Nicholas Kirkwood did the heels again, causing one tumble and a trip by Karlie Loss, and frequent Rodarte collaborator Autumne de Wilde was backstage filming a Rodarte movie. Full play-by-play here.