fashionologie

Paul Rowland Snaps 19 Models for Witchy 96-Page V Supplement

fashionologie — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 13:09:35 -0700

>> The 96-page September issue insert The Imagist teased back in June turned out to be for V: Paul Rowland, founder of Women and Supreme agencies, photographed 19 of his models in studio back in April with help from stylist Nicholas Grasa. His inspirations were "Joel-Peter Witkin, paganism, mysticism, vampires, witches - all the things I love," and V has a video of the shoot in action, which required Hannelore Knuts to have raw meat draped over her chest and the rope holding it together lit on fire on both ends. The supplement will be available with V61 in select cities.

Maybe this whole project is the start of a move into a new arena for Rowland? As V puts it: "Rowland, whose lavish and intricate agency show packages are the talk of the industry each season, has a creative verve that extends beyond model agency moving and shaking, and into photography and fine art. After this outing, however, he might need his own magazine as well."

fashionologie — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 14:32:25 -0700

>> Suvi Kopenen Hangs, Flips for Purple Fashion -You hear about models having to hold awkward positions for hours during a photoshoot, but here's some video evidence, straight from the set of the upcoming Purple Fashion (#12, Fall/Winter 2009). Suvi Kuponen hangs over Hanne-Gaby Odiele from the ceiling by her feet, a swing across her chest, and for every shot Paola Kudacki takes, she has to hang her head and then flip it upwards. [Purple Diary]

The video! (NSFW) »

May 2009 Vogue Italia Heralds Editorial Comebacks of Suvi, Irina

fashionologie — Mon, 11 May 2009 16:53:45 -0700

>> While Gemma Ward is still missing from the fashion scene - instead, she's DJing this Thursday in New York - but some of her compatriots are making a return to the influential editorial fold after lengthy breaks, courtesy of the May 2009 Vogue Italia.

Irina Lazareanu, who has been in full-on hiatus mode, skipping both the Spring 2009 and Fall 2009 runways save for a couple of turns during couture in January, is back in Miles Aldridge's technicolored "Dreamy." And Suvi Koponen, who skipped the Fall 2009 runways to travel the world, returns to major editorial ground showcasing what she does best - pose - in Richard Burbridge's "A Summer Blend." Not to mention Sasha Pivovarova's return to Vogue Italia cover territory, Moroccan-style.
*image: source

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi's First Ferre Collection: The Reviews Are In

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 12:49:47 -0700

>> Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi had a tall order to fill for Spring 2009. Before Gianfranco Ferre passed in 2007, his architectural-based label had ceased to become relevent - as Cathy Horyn put it, "It’s been a while since anyone [has] paid serious attention to the Ferre name." So could the newly tapped designers bring it back to the forefront?

The general consensus says yes. Nicole Phelps of Style.com was pleased: "They deserve high marks for this outing." Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, a Aquilano-Rimondi fan, loved the effort, with one caveat: "The designers distilled the essence of Ferre in a new, eye-catching way. Now to just refine the elements a bit more . . . " WWD felt the same: "Aquilano and Rimondi have the right ideas, but what they need now is a little restraint."

Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also echoed the same sentiment: "Not all the Ferré collection was approachable. Yet . . . the two designers created the clothes and the buzz that will bring fashion life back to Ferré." With another season under their belts, Aquilano and Rimondi could definitely hit the right stride at Ferre.
*image: source

Rodarte Spring 2009: Making It Big

fashionologie — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 21:48:52 -0700

>> When Natalie Portman comes to the show, Keira Knightley hits up the after party, and Anna Wintour brings Bee - who usually only goes to Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler - along, you know Rodarte is really starting to make it big. Even Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani, had a little trouble getting in - apparently, she tried to follow Anna and Bee through the velvet rope, but the PR staff wouldn't allow it.

Onto the clothes: They followed the same thought process as the Fall 2008 collection, but with a few key changes - the colors, the shoes (those treacherous shoes, made by Nicholas Kirkwood instead of Christian Louboutin this season), and the leggings, which were leather instead of knit, and although they looked laser cut, were entirely handmade. Some think the look veered into Balenciaga territory, but me? I'm just enjoying the view.
*image: source

Marc Jacobs Wears Skirt, Shows Skirts for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Tue, 09 Sep 2008 00:45:30 -0700

>> For the second season in a row, Marc Jacobs started his show promptly, just ten minutes after its scheduled start - only this time, half the attendees weren't locked out - everyone had learned their lesson. "Ladies and gentlemen, please take your seats. The show is about to begin."

Through swinging mirror doors, the models walked the mirror-lined runway from every direction, funhouse illusions abounding. But show tactics aside, with Marc, it always comes down to the clothes - the mashed-up, layered, bangled clothes, sparkling, plaided, and sheened. As Gershwin played in the background, Marc took us in a whole new direction - and he did it while wearing a skirt.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
*image: source

Proenza Schouler Takes Dellal Downtown for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 22:38:51 -0700

>> Alice Dellal may have been a special guest at Alexander Wang, but she was there in spirit at Proenza Schouler - the sideswept wavy hair, red lip, leathers, zippers, and crop tops shown were all reminiscent of her look. She may have been a starting point, but the collection had a downtown refinement that you would never seen in Alice - she revels too much in the grunge. All I have to say is: So many fun, billowy jumpsuits, so little time. And don't forget to check out the accessories - they're part of Jack and Lazaro's first full season effort.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
*image: source

Alexander Wang: Now Anna Wintour-Approved

fashionologie — Sun, 07 Sep 2008 00:17:46 -0700

>> Alexander Wang's sweat-inspired Spring 2009 collection, featuring shiny-faced models, was quite appropriate - yesterday had the fashion crowd dripping from heat, and today, Tropical Storm Hanna blew in just in time for Alex's show.

Not that the weather would keep anyone away; Anna Wintour attended Alex's show for the first time ever - a symbol of his quick rise. As the lights went down, the sunglasses went on, and she only broke pose a couple of times - once to consult Virginia Smith's program, and the other to fiddle with her BlackBerry.

The show was definitely a different experience, now that Alex has moved on from Erin Wasson, collaborating with stylist Alastair McKimm instead, but all of the classic Wang elements - zippers, leather, a slouchy, downtown feel - were all there. The only major slip up was at the end, when all the models - stellar cast, I might add (Jourdan Dunn!) - took their final tour and got stopped up returning backstage. We're talking line of models, basically at a standstill, at the end of the show. Alex skipped out, did his usual jump and punch the air routine. And then Anna ran out.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video on Elle.com.
*image: source

fashionologie — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:49:44 -0700

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —Award for the most amazing campaign shot so far this Fall 2008 season: Suvi Koponen for Calvin Klein. The first image released isn't nearly as striking, but the campaign was styled by Camilla Nickerson and Karl Templer and promises to be "graphic," so here's hoping for more stunners. [Supreme Being]