fashionologie

Stefano Pilati Is Seeing Strawberries, Knee Slits for Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2010

fashionologie — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 16:52:45 -0700

>> Stefano Pilati favors supermodels for his Yves Saint Laurent ad campaigns - five seasons strong now - and two showed up front row for the YSL show today: Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss. Pilati, who favors little color, as famously noted by Anna Wintour in The September Issue, stuck to mostly white and black, gray, and tan, with a little emerald, periwinkle blue, and coral pink thrown in for good measure. “It’s many, many ideas, a multiplicity of influences, an aesthetic paradigm of new minimalism,” the designer, often referred to as "cerebral" or "intellectual," said of the collection, which he styles himself.

He drew from Saint Laurent's heritage peasant motif, and added a dollop of strawberries - in prints, appliques, and ceramic earrings, which raised a number of eyebrows but have a fan in at least one influencer; Kate Moss announced backstage, “I want to wear that strawberry dress." For all the sweetness, there was no lack of edge: leather shorts with knee slits are sure to be a hit, and suiting was left with slashed hemlines and loose threads hanging.

fashionologie — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 18:03:54 -0700

>> Fashion Figures Are in Full Vacation Mode -Everyone's trying to get their vacation in before Fashion Week's craziness takes over September and October: Stefano Pilati is currently relaxing by the pool of his ivy-covered summer place in Saint-Tropez, and Vogue has a whole slew of details on where models are vacationing, among them Coco Rocha, who is volunteering in Costa Rica for the entire month of August; Sasha Pivovarova, who is going to the Dominican Republic with her husband; and Caroline Trentini, who is already visiting family in Brazil. [Purple Diary, Vogue Daily]

fashionologie — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 16:12:50 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Alber Elbaz loves his TV, but Stefano Pilati takes in a concert when he gets a break - he recently saw PJ Harvey while in New York. And although he says he's "been working nonstop. Normally the summer is more relaxed, but this one, no way. I didn't stop one day," when he does get a chance for a longer break, he likes to "disappear" to Hawaii or Idaho to ski: "You know, I can't really stop thinking about collections, but at least I'm not under so much pressure." [Purple Diary, Hint]

Stefano Pilati's Sustainable Yves Saint Laurent Collection Didn't Sustain In-Store for Long

fashionologie — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 14:24:58 -0700

>> Stefano Pilati has been in New York since the weekend, hanging out at the Mercer Hotel with Purple's Olivier Zahm, Chloe Sevigny, and Waris Ahluwalia, but last night he got down to business, hosting the launch of the Yves Saint Laurent sustainable "New Vintage" collection with Barneys. All the bags, shoes, and dresses were cut from archive fabric left over from previous seasons, and Barneys fashion director Julie Gilhart reports that it went fast - only a few pieces left, and she grabbed one of the bags for herself.

Today, Pilati presented his Cruise 2010 collection to press and buyers - where Chanel Iman was apparently called out for Twittering while she modeled.

More Details from The September Issue Vogue Documentary Featuring Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington

fashionologie — Wed, 27 May 2009 13:49:01 -0700

>> Despite screening in January at the Sundance Film Festival, details on Vogue documentary The September Issue - with the exception of a short clip - have been kept largely under wraps. A group of British fashion insiders who have seen the 90-minute special are under strict embargo not to discuss it until it is screened at the Edinburgh festival on June 22, and the movie doesn't hit theaters until September 11, but Fashion Week Daily got their hands on a screener and has plenty of details on the film, which features Anna Wintour, the "pope" as Style.com's Candy Pratts Price calls her, and creative director Grace Coddington, or "without question, the greatest living stylist there is," according to fashion news and features director Sally Singer. The highlights, as relayed by FWD:

Anna's apparently not a fan of black . . .

"I wonder if Anna would like this one?" Grace Coddington muses, flipping through pieces. "It's black," someone points out. "That's true," Grace says. "You'd get fired for that."

. . . And perhaps not Stefano Pilati, either?

We watch her drop in for walk-through with Karl Lagerfeld and Stefano Pilati, with whom she is surprisingly (not so surprisingly?) short. What, no color in this collection, Stefano? No evening?

But she pushes for more Olivier Theyskens/Nina Ricci representation in the magazine.

Mario [Testino]'s film from the cover shoots comes back, and Anna is not pleased. There aren't enough clothes, there isn't enough Nina Ricci, and where are the Colosseum shots? She looks through the cover options, and leaves a note on one, where Sienna [Miller] is flashing a grin: "like this best, but teeth."

Terrorizing assistants, angering Grace, and what's next for Bee . . . »

Jason Wu to Show Cruise 2010 Collection; Yves Saint Laurent Brings Out Color for Own Cruise 2010 Line

fashionologie — Wed, 27 May 2009 11:38:09 -0700

>> Chanel had a big production in Venice, Oscar de la Renta is gearing up for his Cruise 2010 show in a few days time, and Jason Wu just announced he's joining the big leagues by putting on his own Cruise 2010 runway show, inspired by Iris Apfel, June 4 at the Greenwich Hotel.

But Stefano Pilati, known for his ascetic approach to Yves Saint Laurent in recent seasons, has decided to continue that thought, opting to go without a Cruise 2010 show. As for the clothes, he veered away from his recent obsession with black, white, and shades of gray, infusing color and even a print into the Loulou de la Falaise-inspired mix.

fashionologie — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 12:29:07 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Marc Jacobs isn't the only designer who has a predilection for tattoos: Stefano Pilati, who got his first tattoo - interlocking male and female symbols on his arm - at 13, has just added to his collection in a major way with a full floral sleeve. Don't expect to see much of it, though - he tends to wear long sleeve sweaters and blazers to cover his body art up. [Purple Diary]

Kate Moss Not Replacing Claudia Schiffer, But May Have an Yves Saint Laurent Campaign

fashionologie — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 12:15:44 -0700

>> There was speculation that Kate Moss might be collaborating with Karl Lagerfeld on something, but it looks like Yves Saint Laurent may have landed her first. Yesterday, photos of a shoot in Paris - with Kate all decked out in Fall 2009 Yves Saint Laurent, Edward Enninful doing the styling duties, and Craig McDean photographing - appeared, and some wondered if it wasn't the Fall 2009 YSL campaign shoot. A spokesperson has denied that it was - which makes sense, since Stefano Pilati wasn't on set, and was in New York instead the night before - but didn't rule out that it was some kind of campaign shoot. Fragrance campaign seems most likely, since she's holding a single rose to her nose, no? Either that, or perhaps something for the May 2009 issue of Vogue, since the Enninful-McDean combination seems right for that specific magazine, and Kate is co-hosting the Costume Institute Gala that month.
*image: bauer-griffin online

Yves Saint Laurent: Back in the Black for Fall 2009

fashionologie — Mon, 09 Mar 2009 15:48:52 -0700

>> It's all about black at Yves Saint Laurent - and not just on the runway. Owner PPR just announced that after ten years of losses, the brand finally broke even in 2008. Appropriately enough, Stefano Pilati sent out a Fall 2009 collection that was - you guessed it - mostly black, quilted, pinstriped, and in leather; apparently Pilati worked with automakers to cultivate some pieces in materials usually used in high-end cars. Spring 2009 face Claudia Schiffer was in front row, and just as suspected, Caroline Trentini finally appeared as an exclusive, closing the show. Pilati, who notably is one of only two designers in the industry who works without a stylist - the other being Giorgio Armani - riffed on YSL's heritage power-dressing, and the message was powerful; maybe a little too powerful for Yulia Kharlapanova, who had to take her shoes off.
*image: source, source

Stefano Pilati's Valentine's Day Manifesto

fashionologie — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:36:34 -0800

>> Stefano Pilati approaches the high-low differently than most designers - instead of doing a line for Target, H&M, or Topshop, he sends messengers out to the streets carrying the Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto. Over half a million copies of the twenty-page fourth installment hit the pavement in Paris, London (details where), Milan, Tokyo, and New York on Valentine's Day - Feb. 14 - to inflitrate the public. The lucky first 2,000 passersby in each city go home with a cotton YSL tote bag festooned with heart-shaped USB, loaded with images of current campaign face Claudia Schiffer, plus a behind-the-scenes video of the Hollywood Hills shoot she did with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Also fun: the additions of centerfold poster and removable stickers.

For those not in one of the aforementioned five cities, the Manifesto debuts on ysl.com the same day. Until then . . .

Video: A peak »