fashionologie

Proenza Schouler Goes Lady-Like - But With Tie Dye and Neon - for Spring 2011

fashionologie — Thu, 16 Sep 2010 06:09:26 PDT

>> After last season's school girl-inspired kicky mini skirts, thigh highs, and varsity jackets, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were ready to do "something a little more polished, maybe grown-up in a way, but our way," the latter explained. “We’d gone as short as we could, and as body-conscious as we could . . . So we took all these feminine codes - the embroideries, the flowers - and mixed them up in our own way."

Welcome the pink tweedy suits, the salmon matte croc coat, the ladylike pumps - no platforms - and the lingerie done in collaboration with Jean Yu (who also worked with Rag & Bone this season), allowing for a little covering up, a novel thought in this season of sheer. Also a surprise: flats on the Proenza Schouler runway, in sandal and knee-high gladiator form. But it wouldn't be a Proenza collection of late without a little fluoro - and it came aplenty, in acid green, pink, orange, and cobalt. Textures were complex in this collection - the first few pieces to come out had what Cathy Horyn termed the texture of "a freshly clipped poodle; no, a cauliflower; no, finer!" - and the label's trademark tie dye was reimagined this time with the ancient form of Japanese shibori.

Interesting to note: Victoria Traina was indeed listed as creative consultant on this collection, and Theory's Andrew Rosen - who was rumored earlier this year to be circling an investment in Proenza - was front row, just as rumors resurface that Rosen is looking to buy the brand from European private equity fund Permira.

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Crystal Renn Makes New York Fashion Week Appearance at Z Spoke

fashionologie — Sat, 11 Sep 2010 22:49:47 PDT

>> Crystal Renn has been embraced by Paris designers - Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier both picked her for their recent campaigns - so it was only a matter of time before she and her curves were welcomed stateside once again. The designer who takes the honor? Zac Posen, who sent Renn down the Z Spoke runway, marking her first appearance of the week. “I’m freaking out," she told People. "Zac is one of the ones you want. Zac, Calvin and Marc are the big three. I booked one of my three.”

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Shopping: Long and Lean Summer Looks From Bassike, Rick Owens, and Helmut Lang

coutorture — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:11:55 PDT

From left: Bassike organic cotton maxi tank dress $190 Net-a-Porter, Bassike organic cotton maxi dress $170 Net-a-Porter, Helmut Lang side-split jersey maxi dress $330 Net-a-Porter, Rick Owens cotton jersey tank dress $265 Net-a-Porter, Stella McCartney degrade jersey dress $1165 Net-a-Porter.

This season's long, lean dress does not take inspiration from the floral, flouncy maxis of seasons past. In urban monochrome shades of army green, gray, white, and black, the silhouette is more '90s grunge and less '70s hippie. Some of our favorites above (from Rick Owens, Stella McCartney, Bassike, and Helmut Lang) show just a bit of leg and look perfect with an open-toe boot or flat sandal and a cropped jacket-a modern go-to outfit that will take you right through the fall.

Proenza Schouler Limited-Edition Fish Print Accessories Available Exclusively Online

coutorture — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 07:23:53 PDT

Style.com's Nicole Phelps called the fish prints that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez used in their spring 2010 collection "the brightest, most novel animal prints to hit a runway in recent memory." If you haven't managed to get your hands on one of the looks, specifically the psychedelic cocktail dresses from Proenza Schouler's spring collection, no need to worry. The designers have launched two limited-edition, budget-friendly accessories exclusively online-with the same colorful print. There is a shopping tote ($325) and a matching wallet ($125), both in aqua and orange with black leather straps, available now at ProenzaSchouler.com.

Shopping: The Summer's Best Silk Shorts From Rachel Comey, Acne, and See by Chloe

coutorture — Thu, 20 May 2010 12:10:27 PDT

Marc by Marc Jacobs textured silk shorts $300 Mytheresa, Elizabeth and James silk shorts $342 Mytheresa, Rachel Comey silk petal shorts $298 Farfetch, D&G silk blend shorts $246 Farfetch, Miu Miu silk baloon shorts $429 Mytheresa, Acne silk tie-dye shorts $300 Net-a-Porter, Acne silk-chiffon shorts $150 Net-a-Porter, See by Chloe eyelet detail silk shorts $330 Myteresa.

Between the 1940s style silk shorts Marco Zanini showed on the runway for Rochas, and Lauren Santo Domingo's declaration that the miniskirt is dead, we're starting to get the picture. EBay's Annabel Tollman suggests searching for vintage lingerie tap shorts online, while we're hooked on the above styles from designers' spring collections. Our ultimate favorite? Rachel Comey's petal shorts in cobalt blue. And if these prices are out of your league, try Kate Moss for Topshop, which hit stores today.

Silk Tap Shorts and Love-Worn Denim in Kate Moss For Topshop Spring 2010 Collection

coutorture — Wed, 19 May 2010 10:08:03 PDT

Now that Kate Moss is only releasing two collections a year for Tophsop, her lineups offer a broader range of styles and cover even more of the season's important trends. For spring/summer 2010, Moss reintroduced a few favorites from the past, including the popular printed kimonos and 1970s smocked blouses, and added variations on key summer themes like the micro short. The latter appears throughout the collection in multiple styles-gray suede hotpants with laser-cut details, black velvet shorts with white lace trim, and thoroughly modern silk tap shorts in mint green and white. Check out the entire lineup, which is available in stores and online tomorrow, in the gallery below.

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Spring Shopping: Denim RTW and Accessories From Lanvin, Miu Miu, Chloé, and D&G

coutorture — Thu, 13 May 2010 09:58:12 PDT

Clockwise from left: Miu Miu denim pochette $540 Mytheresa, D&G faded denim shirt $295 Net-a-Porter, Chambray skirt $39 Aeropostale, Preen denim flash dress $1186 Mytheresa, Lanvin denim pom-pom flats $540 Net-a-Porter, Thakoon striped dress $545 Kirna Zabete, Chloe denim triangle bikini $209 Mytheresa, D&G Mid-rise distressed boyfriend jeans $395 Net-a-Porter.

Spring's head-to-toe denim trend will still be going strong well into the summer months with pieces like Hannah MacGibbon's denim triangle bikini for Chloé and Alber Elbaz's pom-pom sandals for Lanvin hitting stores in the coming weeks. Miu Miu has our favorite back-to-the-'80s chain-strap handbag, while Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana do distressed denim just right for D&G.

Karl Lagerfled and Vanessa Paradis Team Up For Launch of New Coco Cocoon Collection

coutorture — Thu, 06 May 2010 07:21:04 PDT

Karl Lagerfeld and Venessa Paradis on set (left), Chanel Coco Cocoon advertising campaign (right)

Vanessa Paradis, who also appears in the current ads for Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick, is the star of the new Chanel Coco Cocoon collection. Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld in his Rue de Lille studio, Paradis appears in a series of images to break in June magazines. "I have often photographed her for magazines or advertising campaigns and each time it's a pleasure," said Lagerfeld. The pair also recently collaborated on a special issue of French weekly, Madame Figaro, for which Paradis will guest edit, appearing with Lagerfeld on the cover. The complete Coco Cocoon collection, seen in the gallery below, will be in stores May 15.

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Pierre Hardy For Gap Spring Collection Available Next Week

coutorture — Wed, 05 May 2010 10:22:58 PDT

Gap's spring collaboration with Pierre Hardy is a welcome diversion from our unproductive obsession with the retailer's fall collection of lace-up boots (not in stores until August). Until then, this lineup will definitely do. Featuring go-with-everything denim and nude wedges ($110) and a flat espadrille that will only set you back $65, all four styles will be available online and in Gap stores next Monday, May 10.

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Spring Shopping: Sheer Genius From Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders, and Bruno Pieters

coutorture — Fri, 30 Apr 2010 07:44:58 PDT

Clockwise from left: Christian Louboutin mesh pump $945 Barneys, Fendi applique top $650 Net-a-Porter, Gareth Pugh long sleeve bodysuit $506 Farfetch, Bruno Pieters organza skirt $1354 Farfetch, Gareth Pugh sheer leggins $455 Farfetch, Bruno Pieters organza top $1638 Farfetch, Jonathan Saunders paneled silk shift dress $1350 Net-a-Porter, Markus Lupfer sheer beaded leggings $350 Net-a-Porter.

Take a cue from the runways of Gareth Pugh, Bruno Pieters, and Jonathan Saunders by opting for sheer fabrics and accessories this spring. The desired look is less pretty or ethereal and more sporty and minimalist. Pair with tailored layers for the perfect balance of reveal and conceal.