>> Chanel and Dior may go full-out with couture presentations, but Donatella Versace prefers to do private appointments in January for Atelier Versace. A gown from her pleat-centric Fall 2008 collection made it to the Oscars on Marisa Tomei last weekend, and now that that's over, it's time for the big reveal: Spring 2009. The collection, modeled by Georgina Stojiljkovic, who seems to be Donatella's favorite couture model, focuses on ruffled red carpet-ready gowns, with a couple of whorled cut-out confections thrown in for good measure. Sketches included.
Spring 2009
Spring 2009 Atelier Versace: Red Carpet Ruffles and Whorls
Azzedine Alaia's Spring 2009 Wonderland
>> There are few designers these days that can succeed without hopping onto the fashion train in some way — even Margiela sold a majority stake to Diesel — but Azzedine Alaia has done just that. After all these years, he still remains a mystery — he has no website, and as The Imagist points out — "no seasonal shows, no advertising, no freestanding boutique network, very little retail outlets, and product that is about its own consistent identity, not the whims of a fashion moment." Seeing his Spring 2009 lookbook, shot by Willy Vanderperre with Kasia Struss, seems like such a treat — mostly because of his elusiveness, but also because the black velvet gown he dressed Penelope Cruz in for the SAG Awards last weekend really whets the appetite.
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>> INSIDER WIRE —Alexander Wang found sweat stains to be an unexpected inspiration for his Spring 2009 collection. In a new video for Saks, he goes over the thought process behind a few more of his pieces, including one dress inspired by "wearing a big oversized white t-shirt, jumping into the ocean and having it wrap and drape around you" and another dress that came from the idea of "sleeping in these beautiful satin sheets and running out of the house with your satin sheets wrapped around you." [Saks]
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>> IN PRODUCTION —A turn at the Topshop press day reveals Louis Vuitton-like heels, fringed boleros, Rodarte-inspired loose knits, and Obedient Daughters-influenced floral blazers will all be in stock for Spring 2009. The store's main themes are set to be Hope and Glory, Memphis, Nouveau Sport, and Voodoo — for a peek at how those are interpreted into wares, click through. [Style Bubble]
Jean Paul Gaultier Lets Them Eat Cake
>> The second episode of Coco Rocha's "Insider's Guide to Backstage" has appeared, and this time she ends her sentences with question marks, "pretends" to ask Jean Paul Gaultier questions at her Spring 2009 fitting, because "I'm pretending to know what I'm doing," and lets us in on why models think JPG has the best fittings. As Coco practices her contemporary dance choreography to open the show, JPG giggles his way through the entire video.
>> INSIDER WIRE —Not all fashion is fun and games, and here's your gross-out proof for the day: "Minutes prior to the commencement of Sonia Rykiel’s 40th anniversary show in Paris earlier this month, one dresser projectile vomited over three models. Some time was reportedly spent fishing particles out of the models' hair and clothes." [Frockwriter]
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>> THE MODELIZER —Post-runway show, some designers give the models the clothes or shoes they wore down the catwalk, others gift handbags or jewelry, but Alexander McQueen? He opts for a t-shirt. This season, it was black with spattered ivory and lime paint and a purple heart — as seen on Alyona Osmanova — and "the girls hold onto them like treasure, wearing them season in and season out." [Go Backstage]
>> INSIDER WIRE —Did she do it as a show of her power? A sign of disrespect? Because it surely wasn't ignorance that Anna Wintour displayed when she wore a fur scarf last week to Stella McCartney's show. Stella, who famously refuses to work with leather or fur, can't have been pleased . . . [The Cut]
>> INSIDER WIRE —At Louis Vuitton, there is never a shortage of monograms or trinkets — and Sunday's show was no exception. Marc Jacob's business partner Robert Duffy mentioned backstage that the models had on pretty lingerie, and Raquel Zimmermann and others flipped up their skirts to reveal LV-monogrammed underpants. Meanwhile, after the show, Marc handed out the shoes straight off the runway to his favorite editors — Francesca Burns from i-D and Victoria Young of POP among them. [NYT, On the Runway, Style File, Jak & Jil]
Marc Jacobs Trades In Skirts for High Heels at Louis Vuitton
>> Marc Jacobs loves throwing curve balls — both on the runway and with his personal inclinations — and during New York Fashion Week he was quite taken with wearing skirts.
He appeared on the end of both the Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs runways in skirts, explaining: "I did a lot more skirts in this collection for women than I usually do — we usually do a lot of pants. So I bought this one, and I discovered how nice it felt to wear. They’re comfortable, and wearing it made me happy, so I bought more. And now I just can’t stop wearing them."
Less than a month later, it looks like he's decided to stop wearing them. Yesterday at the Louis Vuitton Spring 2009 presentation, he debuted a new look instead: slicked-back hair, a pinstriped suit, and Nicholas Sarkozy-like stacked heels. Wonder if it was the French president who inspired him?
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