fashionologie

Alexander Wang Fall 2010: Wall Street, Wang-Style

fashionologie — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 10:57:13 -0800

>> Despite the vast concrete-floored warehouse space waiting inside Pier 94 to house Alexander Wang's guests, they all had to pass through a single set of double doors at the entrance yesterday, causing quite the crush, particularly because a burly security guard took up a large part of the entryway, allowing VIPs like Dasha Zhukova and Fabien Baron pass on his right, while everyone else had to go to his left.

The crowd buzzed with excitement; after all, Wang has come a long way in a few short seasons - to the point that a major magazine's accessories editor had to ask stylists to stop using one of his shoes, the lace-up sandal boot from Spring 2010, which had become ubiquitous, in all of their shoots.

Tavi Gavinson emerged from backstage, Fashion Television camera crew in tow, and took to laughing with and interviewing Lauren Santo Domingo, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, and Derek Blasberg. She took her front row seat, and the stadium-style lights went down and then up, revealing opener (and closer) Natalia Vodianova, hair shellacked over one eye, as she walked along the long black background, giving the audience a prolonged view in profile, before turning to give them a closer look.

Wang, like fellow young designer Jason Wu, felt the need for a turning point in his brand this season, hence a focus on a more tailored silhouette in the form of deconstructed pinstripe suits: Wall Street, Wang-style. But there was also a strong element of late-'90s goth: the models wore black backpacks with fluttery floor-length tails, 5-inch high chunky-heeled mid-calf boots in velvet or brown with burnished yellow toes (which they had trouble turning in), pleated mini-skirts with tuxedo tails in back, and mid-thigh leggings which belled out over their shoes. There was even some chenille and a black leather trench thrown into the mix.

Big on collaborations, Wang worked with stylist Karl Templer and Linda Farrow sunglasses each for the second time, the latter producing bug-eyed shades worn over the models' hair, and Gaia Repossi for jewelry. In addition to Natalia, Freja Beha Erichsen and Snejana Onopka made their runway debut for the week; Agyness Deyn and Jessica Miller, ready for a comeback, also took a turn. The designer's CFDA-appointed mentor Diane von Furstenberg was front row, smiling during the finale, along with her CEO Paula Sutter, whose appearance raised a few questions about investment potential (DVF has a stake in Nathan Jensen's line).

Wang decided to forgo an after-party this season after last season's gas station-set rager, but fret not; last night, he told WWD with a grin: "We're planning something big for September."

Chanel's Cruise 2010 Show Lands on the Boardwalk at Sunset in Venice

fashionologie — Thu, 14 May 2009 14:05:33 -0700

>> Yesterday was all fittings and a dinner party - which host Karl Lagerfeld and his entourage were a full two hours late for (blame it on the fittings and Lady Amanda Harlech's mosquito-stung eye) - but the Chanel Cruise 2010 was this evening at the Grand Hotel Excelsior Lido Resort in Venice.

Siri Tollerod, Heidi Mount, Liu Wen, Charlotte di Calypso, and Denisa Dvorakova were all in town to walk, powwowing with Lagerfeld for their fittings yesterday; add to that list Inguna Butane and Snejana Onopka, who sent photographic evidence of their arrival, plus Lara Stone and Tatjana Patitz, who walked the finale with Karl.

Carine Roitfeld and Emmanuelle Alt were spotted lounging in the sun on the Hotel Europa's terrace pre-show, and at the Excelsior Lido, white tents were set up on the beach and the pier lit up. The catwalk was a boardwalk and the front row a line of deck chairs, with editors left to deal with their heels sinking into the sand.

Last night, Lagerfeld hinted that the clothes would be reminiscent of Peggy Guggenheim, the patron whose palazzo now houses Italy’s most important collection of twentieth-century art, and inspired by Venetian high-society of the '30s, with fabrics sourced from "the rich reds of the Renaissance, Fortuny's prints, and the chiaroscuro technique of the great Italian masters."

The show happened at sunset - Karl made everyone wait two hours because he wanted to start then - with the girls wearing Marchesa Casati-inspired wigs and makeup, the opening "sailor girl-inspired cream and navy knits" and a finale of metallic lace cocktail dresses. Guests brought home a Chanel beach towel as souvenir.

More photos of the collection here.

The Russian Dolls: Ten Years Ago

fashionologie — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 15:48:03 -0700

>> This month, Vogue Russia September 2008 celebrates the top Russian models in "10 Years Later" by pitting childhood photos taken ten years ago against recent photos taken by Terry Tsiolis. Sasha Pivovarova, Natasha Poly, Snejana Onopka, Vlada Roslyakova . . . they're all there — and if you're looking for a model who went through an awkward phase, you'll be severely disappointed.
*image: source

Karen Elson Pulls On Her Grace Coddington Face for Vogue August 2008

fashionologie — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 13:56:07 -0700

>> In a fun riff on Carine Roitfeld's iconic Vogue Paris editorial with Snejana Onopka posing as Anna Wintour, the August 2008 issue of Vogue has an editorial featuring five models styled by five different Vogue editors in their own style. Sasha Pivovarova, Raquel Zimmermann, Maryna Linchuk, Tanya Dziahileva are all involved, but first up, Karen Elson as Vogue's cat-loving creative director Grace Coddington.
*image: source, source

Frida Giannini Taps Into the Rachel Zoe Style Rules for Gucci Resort 2009

fashionologie — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 10:39:31 -0700

>> If Frida Giannini is aiming for her Gucci customer to be one Rachel Zoe, nothing says it stronger than the flowy printed maxi dresses and one-shouldered bohemian blouses that she sent out as Gucci's Resort 2009 collection.

Shown in Rome to celebrate the brand's 70th anniversary and a re-opening flagship, the collection will surely please those who hanker for a Hermes scarf-like minidress or a pair of fringed espadrille wedges. Guests who were left waiting for their rides to the show venue, however, were less impressed, remarking that if Tom Ford were still at Gucci, the cars wouldn't have been late, and the drivers would have been handsome and topless . . .

A video of the show can be seen here.
*image: source, source

Live from Rome: Snejana Onopka Makes a Runway Return at Gucci Resort 2009

fashionologie — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 15:26:51 -0700

>> If you missed the live feed of the Gucci Resort 2009 presentation earlier today, fret no more: it's waiting for you to watch below. The video starts out with a little backstage coverage — Mariacarla Boscono sneaking a cig while her hair is curled, Iekeliene Stange iPoding it up — and then, when it hits 2:48, the good stuff. Natasha Poly opens, Lily Donaldson closes, and for all you Snejana Onopka fans who were fretting after couture . . . she's back!

fashionologie — Tue, 10 Jun 2008 12:02:54 -0700

“

Things have been happening. There have been several well-known girls that agents took off the runway and gotten help for. They came back and they are still slim, but they have health and are not what we call 'overly skinny.'

”- Nian Fish, chairwoman of the CFDA Health Initiative on continuing efforts
[Ed. note: She wouldn't name names, but does anyone else automatically think of the show season where Snejana Onopka inexplicably disappeared?]