fashionologie

Phillip Lim Sews Up Another Crowd Pleaser for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Thu, 11 Sep 2008 21:34:29 PDT

>> Phillip Lim created the mascot skirt of Fashion Week earlier this year - not kidding, I've seen it on at least one person every day this week - and if the attendance to his newest collection's presentation is any indication, Spring 2009 will be smooth sailing for 3.1 Phillip Lim - the Tent was packed to the gills with fans, including friends Richard Chai and Irina Lazareanu, both sitting front row.

Christian Louboutin designed ruffled heels for the collection, eliciting covetousness in many - in fact, the whole Spring 2009 season is about ruffles for Phillip. The treatment in some of the dresses and skirts reminded me of a tamed version of Marc Jacobs's Spring 2007 ruffles, but among the hazy smoke that hovered on the runway, the real standouts emerged - the stiff, open-edged zipper pieces, and the jewelry Eddie Borgo made for the occasion.
*image: source

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Costello Tagliapietra Spring 2009: Anchored in Lady, With a Touch of Butch

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 18:24:01 PDT

>> The third time was the charm for Costello Tagliapietra yesterday - after starting and stopping the runway music two times, the second of which included dimming the lights, the show finally got under way for the third and final time an hour after its scheduled start. Lucky for Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra, their designs made it worth the wait.

Their tailored lady got some edge, courtesy of Philip Crangi's black leather accessories and an airbrushed-on tattoo . Each girl sported a blue anchor with her initials under it, Miu Miu Fall 2008-style, to match the designers' own anchor and initial tattoos, and Christina Kruse got to show off the big cobra tattooed on her arm. An unconventional fabric choice - ultrasuede - gave a matte contrast to all the shiny charmeuse, and unexpected color combinations gave a real zing to the lineup. The only major problem came from the shoes, made by Giuseppe Zanotti for the show - a lot of girls had trouble navigating them, and Georgina Stojilkovic came close to falling.

*image: source

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Frida Giannini Taps Into the Rachel Zoe Style Rules for Gucci Resort 2009

fashionologie — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 10:39:31 PDT

>> If Frida Giannini is aiming for her Gucci customer to be one Rachel Zoe, nothing says it stronger than the flowy printed maxi dresses and one-shouldered bohemian blouses that she sent out as Gucci's Resort 2009 collection.

Shown in Rome to celebrate the brand's 70th anniversary and a re-opening flagship, the collection will surely please those who hanker for a Hermes scarf-like minidress or a pair of fringed espadrille wedges. Guests who were left waiting for their rides to the show venue, however, were less impressed, remarking that if Tom Ford were still at Gucci, the cars wouldn't have been late, and the drivers would have been handsome and topless . . .

A video of the show can be seen here.
*image: source, source

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A Few Tom Ford Spring 2012 Details

fashionologie — Mon, 19 Sep 2011 09:00:50 PDT

>> Last night, Rachel Zoe, Anna Wintour, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley joined Tom Ford at Wolfgang Puck’s newly opened Cut restaurant in London just after his Spring 2012 show. Images of the collection won't be released until early next month, but some details have popped up.

The show cast: Abbey Lee Kershaw, Aline Weber, Anais Mali, Anja Rubik, Aymeline Valade, Bette Franke, Candice Swanepoel, Carmen Kass, Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Daphne Groeneveld, Edita Vilkeviciute, Emily Senko, Fei Fei Sun, Jasmine Tookes, Joan Smalls, Kristina Salinovic, Lais Ribeiro, Mirte Maas, Morgane Warnier, Olga Sherer, Sheila Marquez, Sojourner Morrell, and Sui He.

The collection, according to Hamish Bowles: "Amongst the hourglass silhouettes and powerfully sensual effects beloved of Ford fans, since his work at Gucci in the '90s, there was a thread of pre-Raphaelite romanticism in embroidered peasant blouses (of the type Matisse loved to paint) and even frothy, Renaissance-sleeved dresses that evoked the work of the great '60s and '70s London designer Ossie Clark." Also amongst the collection: "a lacquered anemone purple-satin trench coat," "a blush-pink chiffon tracksuit pant," "a cutaway mother-of-pearl wedge," and "the thinnest diamond-crusted heel."

The collection, according to Cathy Horyn: "[It] was loaded up with great day clothes, including loosely laced Moroccan blouses, fringed skirts and some simple but gorgeous dresses with ruching or a belt at the waist and a bubbled hem. A number of outfits also had corsets blended into the tone of the blouse. Equally strong were his evening option of slinky black pants - more like a ski pant - with a simple chiffon t-shirt coated with feathers at the front."

The collection, according to the Telegraph: "Mesh, marabou, raffia fringing, a candlewick effect which suggested long hours at the hand embroiderers, plaited satin ribbons - these were just some of the techniques applied onto those hourglass silhouettes. Throw in bosoms, cupped in cantilevered chiffon, checks, and some snakeskin skirts, and it could have all looked a bit much."

Photos of the dinner attendees, in the slideshow, plus a first peek at the collection from the model board.

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