>> The sounds of bombs dropping, bullets whizzing, and quotes from Lara Croft: Tomb Raider ("You don't think I'd go vaulting into thin air for nothing, do you?") punctuated the sci fi sountrack at Jil Sander today, with models criss-crossing the X-shaped runway in knit rompers and sharply tailored jumpsuits.  Every single one tromped around in black mid-calf flat boots, while sheer panels stretched down from their tweedy jackets and short slashes revealed themselves in an otherwise buttoned-up collection.

Raf Simons seems to have joined Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada in going archival this season — he pulled out the plaids that Jil Sander first used during the early '90s.  Another change for the designer: casting models of color — Joan Smalls, Rose Cordero, Sun Feifei, and Mengyao Ming Xi all populated the runway today. Brazilian sensation Alicia Kuczman, meanwhile, scored the exclusive.

>> A casting surprise was promised, and Miuccia Prada delivered: Victoria's Secret regulars like Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio, Miranda Kerr, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and Bianca Balti all walked the labyrinthine runway — perhaps as a one-up to Givenchy, who cast Adriana Lima, and Balenciaga, who cast Kerr, in recent seasons.  Also populating the Fall 2010 Prada cast: Lara Stone, Catherine McNeil in her first runway turn since a year ago, Mariacarla Boscono, Rose Cordero, and opener and closer Samantha Gradoville.

The show was preceded by cartoons portraying feminine cliches like "He loves me, he loves me not" while front rowers complained about the anchovy canapes handed out, but once the show started, it was all beehive hairdos, cat-eye librarian glasses, and A-line skirts in muted tones and vinyl-like finishes.  Busts were enhanced with rows of ruffles and strategically placed darts, while knee-high pleated socks were finished off with pointy-toed patent pumps.  A slow jazz soundtrack played, and the whole look — cable knit sweaters, sketchy plaid — earned a chorus of Mad Men comparisons. Apparently, when asked backstage, however, Miuccia said she had never seen the TV show.  A video of the Prada show can be seen here.

>> This evening at the Ecole Des Beaux Arts, Rick Owens had a bit of a seating situation, leaving a number of guests standing and unhappy.  One editor reportedly decided "standing is the new front row," and WWD later noted: "If you’ve outgrown your venue, move on. Otherwise, there’s no excuse for double-booking seat upon seat."

To a soundtrack of crashing waves and with Gareth Pugh front row (Owens attended Pugh's show yesterday), a stream of sculptural shoulderpieces, long loincloth-like skirts, slicked back hair (glue sticks were used to keep it in place) and crinkled metallic bubble dresses exited backstage. Suvi Koponen made her first appearance since her smattering of shows at New York Fashion Week, but most striking was Owens's sudden casting of models of color — Georgie Baddiel, Kinee Diouf, Aminata Niaria, and Rose Cordero all made appearances; his shows have been entirely whitewashed since the Spring 2005 season, when he also cast four black models.

>> The 96-page September issue insert The Imagist teased back in June turned out to be for V: Paul Rowland, founder of Women and Supreme agencies, photographed 19 of his models in studio back in April with help from stylist Nicholas Grasa.  His inspirations were "Joel-Peter Witkin, paganism, mysticism, vampires, witches — all the things I love," and V has a video of the shoot in action, which required Hannelore Knuts to have raw meat draped over her chest and the rope holding it together lit on fire on both ends. The supplement will be available with V61 in select cities. 

Maybe this whole project is the start of a move into a new arena for Rowland?  As V puts it: "Rowland, whose lavish and intricate agency show packages are the talk of the industry each season, has a creative verve that extends beyond model agency moving and shaking, and into photography and fine art. After this outing, however, he might need his own magazine as well."

>> Miuccia Prada closed out the Fall 2009 runway season with a Miu Miu show about "playing with the bourgeoisie.” Necklines plunged to reveal nude bras, fur sashes draped across the chest and covered ankle straps, bare flesh shimmered, and socks were heavily sequined.  The collection seemed more grown up than Miu Miu's recent forays into harlequinism or scuba gear, with its tapestry patterns, but perhaps most striking were the half-coats, with undone buttons or cutout backs.
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>> Marc Jacobs's signature collection started a minute early, and Louis Vuitton started just seven minutes late — which according to the way most fashion shows run, is still early, causing loads of people to miss the beginning — Suzy Menkes climbed over the runway after the first model walked out — and many to be locked out.  Lucky for them, the show was staged in a clear tent in a Louvre courtyard, so late editors and passersby could watch the show.

Bunny ears topped heads — show stylist Katie Grand was inspired by "a black doe rabbit in the pet shop on the corner" — necklaces were modeled after paper garlands, ruching was everywhere, and Rose Cordero finally made a Paris runway appearance.  Marc Jacobs said he was inspired by "all the great, elegant Parisian women, like Loulou de la Falaise," and the LVMH-Gareth Pugh connection continues: Pugh sat front row, two seats away from Bernard Arnault, still denying the Dior Homme rumors.
*image: source