fashionologie

Alexander Wang Takes Home 2009 Swiss Textile Award; Kate Mulleavy On Why Her Label Is Called "Rodarte," Not "Mulleavy"

fashionologie — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 09:37:42 -0800

>> Alexander Wang is experiencing quite the winning streak - he was awarded the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund of $200,000 last November, the 2009 CFDA Swarovski Womenswear winner this past June, and now he's taking home the 2009 Swiss Textiles Award, a prize of about $150,000, to go towards international development. Wang becomes the second American designer in a row to win the Swiss Textiles Award, following after Rodarte, who were the first American winners ever last year.

The jury this year, chaired by Isabel Toledo, apparently had a tough time making a decision - Wang's fellow finalists this year were Peter Pilotto, Erdem, Thakoon, Alexis Mabille, and Ohne Titel, who will each receive a prize of approximately $6,000.

Former winners, Raf Simons, Kate Mulleavy sound off »

Rodarte, Inspired by Death Valley and Vultures, Go Goth Tribal Warrior for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:19:38 -0700

>> Laura Mulleavy told WWD she didn't sleep last night because she was so nervous about the Rodarte show - inspired by the singed Death Valley and "mangled and tattered" black vultures - today, but she had nothing to fear. The room was packed for her and her sister Kate's Spring 2010 collection debut; crunchy black sand was on the floor, dry ice smoke filled the room, and a musky scent wafted through the room as part of a collaboration with fragrance company Firmenich. The first look emerged from the silver cave opening-like set, all plaid and burnt cheesecloth. Following behind was lots of black, some feathers . . . deconstructed looks with tie dye and raw hems and patchwork. Every model had her arms painted with makeup to appear like tribal tattoes, goth lips, and their hair wrapped in webbed wool.

Tavi of Style Rookie, the Mulleavys' muse, was front row, Nicholas Kirkwood did the heels again, causing one tumble and a trip by Karlie Loss, and frequent Rodarte collaborator Autumne de Wilde was backstage filming a Rodarte movie. Full play-by-play here.

The Word on Rodarte Spring 2010

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 08:34:39 -0700

>> Rodarte's Spring 2010 collection is scheduled to debut in about 35 minutes, and already clues to what we'll be seeing are popping up from backstage. The hair is wrapped with netted wool (below), and the clothes are apparently the same texture, reports Grazia. Fashionista says the theme is "organic Native American" - the invites were made of sand - and the models are all tattooed.

To keep the clothes a secret, the models all have to wear full black capes if they want to go outside, and as rumored, they're shooting a Rodarte film. Signs are everywhere backstage reading "by entering these premises you agree to be filmed for the Rodarte film."

The full play-by-play »

fashionologie — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:54:25 -0700

>> Jason Wu, Daisy Lowe Collaborate on Jewelry with Swarovski -Every season, Swarovski sponsors a handful of shows, and they're currently exhibiting some of the crystal-encrusted designs by Rodarte, Jason Wu, Julian Louie, threeASFOUR, Jeremy Laing, and Costello Tagliapietra at the New York store on 499 Broadway. This season, Wu is unveiling his jewelry for Atelier Swarovski (peek at left), based on the "concept of sculpting with everyday objects, so I'm using fabric and crystals and making sculptures in that spirit." And Daisy Lowe is also working on a 4-piece line (a necklace, bracelet, ring, and a set of earrings), which comes out in January: "They're kind of magical in a dark romantic way. I've incorporated black and white, star and moon crystals and multiple strands of chains." [Style.com, W Editor's Blog]

Fashion Week Tidbits: Marchesa Launches Handbags, Alexander Wang Is Thinking "Perv" for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 14:26:43 -0700

>> New York Fashion Week is a little more than a week away, and the tidbits are flowing freely - a compilation of the highlights from the past few days:

Launches

Marchesa is launching its first accessories - 28 clutches and evening bags (above); They will retail $995 to $5,000 and are made to coordinate with the mainline dresses. [WWD]

Peter Som is making his way back, Ruffian goes Picasso »

Designers Diversify: Olivier Theyskens Working on Book, Rodarte Could Have Movie in Works

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 12:19:34 -0700

>> Olivier Theyskens still hasn't found a landing pad, design-wise, but in the meantime, he has a book in the pipeline. In January, Assouline is publishing the 186-page Olivier Theyskens: The Other Side of the Picture, based on a collaboration between the designer and photographer Julien Claessens, who captured the backstage scene for 10-plus years.

Film buffs Rodarte, meanwhile, just signed with LA-based talent agency William Morris Endeavor Entertainment. WWD suggests that "a movie of their own could be in the cards," but for now, the official line is that William Morris plans to “advise the label on opportunities in publishing and film and identify potential strategic partnerships and sponsorships.”

The Last Two POP Covers for Dasha Zhukova's First Issue, Plus More Inside Details

fashionologie — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 13:17:07 -0700

>> The first issue of POP under Dasha Zhukova's guiding hand hits newsstands tomorrow at $8, with two international newsstand covers, each with a 50/50 split run, of Style Rookie's Tavi, plus a 500-copy limited-edition hardback cover by Ed Ruscha (below, left), and a limited subscriber's cover of Cicciolina for the Baltic States (below, right).

“The new Pop launches at an exciting turning point in fashion, where the possibilities and potential for creativity are almost overwhelming,” Zhukova told WWD. “The new era is more fluid than ever before; one where teenage girls in Chicago, fashion editors in Paris, street photographers from Berlin and bloggers everywhere . . . redefine the fashion landscape.”

Fake Karl, Jen Brill, and Mark Borthwick are all involved »

First POP Cover Under Dasha Zhukova Leaks; Zhukova May Be Pregnant

fashionologie — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 11:42:09 -0700

UPDATE: The cover has been removed.

>> The first POP cover under Dasha Zhukova for Fall/Winter 2009, featuring 13-year-old blogger Tavi from Style Rookie in artwork by Damien Hirst, is said to be the image at right. Hirst's participation marks Dasha's push to make the magazine reach further than just the fashion world as it had primarily in the past; her goal when first appointed editor in February was to "provide a broader point of view focusing also on art, contemporary culture and the globalisation of all things pop-related."

We've had a blurry peak at one of the magazine's editorials inside; the cover also boasts a contribution by Juergen Teller, a M/M Paris "bookzine," a 25-year tribute to Naomi Campbell, and "a stem-cell research celebration by Rodarte." If Tavi is indeed on the cover, it's worth noting that a couple of weeks ago, a preview from LOVE's upcoming issue circulated featuring Tavi - ironic that her first two major magazine appearances happen to be in Katie Grand's former magazine (POP), and her current magazine (LOVE).

On a more personal front: last month, Dasha Zhukova's relationship with billionaire Roman Abramovich was said to be over, and now she's being surrounded by pregnancy rumors.

Rodarte Signs On for Target Go International Line

fashionologie — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 10:54:50 -0700

>> Kate and Laura Mulleavy are the latest emerging designers to collaborate with Target for its Go International initiative. The 55 piece Rodarte for Target collection hits stores and target.com right in the middle of the holiday season on Dec. 20, staying through Feb. 6.

The brand is known for its ethereal, handmade pieces, not a commercial aesthetic, but a Target spokesman claims that the collection stays true to the Rodarte spirit:

“What you’ll notice is an amazing eye for detail. It’s very feminine, yet very modern. The collection incorporates a rich mix of patterns and fabrications and everything from sequins and bows to faux fur. The key with Rodarte is layering.”

The range in prices of the collection run from $9.99 for knee-highs to $79.99 for a leopard print jacket. Also included are “a variety of great holiday dresses,” according to the Target spokesman. “There are stand-alone pieces and pieces that can be worn together to create an ensemble by layering different patterns, textures and prints.”

The 2009 CFDA Awards Are Here! Rodarte, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler Take Home Wins

fashionologie — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 16:33:28 -0700

>> American designers are trickling in at Alice Tully Hall for tonight's CFDA Awards - CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg was first to arrive, International Award winner Marc Jacobs walked the red carpet arm and arm with fiance Lorenzo Martone, Kirsten Dunst came with Womenwear of the Year nominees Rodarte, presenter Diane Kruger arrived with Swarovski nominee Jason Wu, Doutzen Kroes is resplendent in Zac Posen, and all were greeted on the front steps by a crowd of models in the nominees' creations.

Swarovski nominee Alexander Wang said he's "not nervous at all" - he woke up today and "forgot it was the CFDAs," but we'll have to wait and see if this turns out to be a night to remember for him, after all . . .

The ceremony is now underway, and host Tracy Ullman opened with a Kiefer Sutherland-headbutting joke - Proenza Schouler is an Accessory Designer nominee, and arrived with Daphne Guinness in tow - the CFDA crowd is a notoriously tough crowd, and the joke was met with "weak laughter."

Later on, Tracy, known for her designer impressions on her eponymous TV show, took a crack at impersonating Anna Wintour. Michelle Obama, who wasn't there in body, accepted her Special Tribute Award by video, and Rodarte's Laura and Kate Mulleavy accepted their Womenswear Award saying they watched Midnight Cowboy this afternoon to calm their nerves.

And the winners are . . . (nominees here):

Accessory Designer of the Year: Proenza Schouler
Popular Vote Award: Ralph Lauren
Menswear Designer of the Year: Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein and Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders (tie)
Swarovski Award for Menswear: Tim Hamilton
Swarovski Award for Womenswear: Alexander Wang
Swarovski Award for Accessories: Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewelry
Womenswear Designer of the Year: Rodarte