>> Laura Mulleavy told WWD she didn't sleep last night because she was so nervous about the Rodarte show — inspired by the singed Death Valley and "mangled and tattered" black vultures — today, but she had nothing to fear. The room was packed for her and her sister Kate's Spring 2010 collection debut; crunchy black sand was on the floor, dry ice smoke filled the room, and a musky scent wafted through the room as part of a collaboration with fragrance company Firmenich. The first look emerged from the silver cave opening-like set, all plaid and burnt cheesecloth. Following behind was lots of black, some feathers . . . deconstructed looks with tie dye and raw hems and patchwork. Every model had her arms painted with makeup to appear like tribal tattoes, goth lips, and their hair wrapped in webbed wool.
Tavi of Style Rookie, the Mulleavys' muse, was front row, Nicholas Kirkwood did the heels again, causing one tumble and a trip by Karlie Loss, and frequent Rodarte collaborator Autumne de Wilde was backstage filming a Rodarte movie. Full play-by-play here.



>> Jason Wu, Daisy Lowe Collaborate on Jewelry with Swarovski —Every season, Swarovski sponsors a handful of shows, and they're currently exhibiting some of the crystal-encrusted designs by Rodarte, Jason Wu, Julian Louie, threeASFOUR, Jeremy Laing, and Costello Tagliapietra at the New York store on 499 Broadway. This season, Wu is unveiling his jewelry for Atelier Swarovski (peek at left), based on the "concept of sculpting with everyday objects, so I'm using fabric and crystals and making sculptures in that spirit." And Daisy Lowe is also working on a 4-piece line (a necklace, bracelet, ring, and a set of earrings), which comes out in January: "They're kind of magical in a dark romantic way. I've incorporated black and white, star and moon crystals and multiple strands of chains." [
>> Olivier Theyskens still hasn't found a landing pad, design-wise, but in the meantime, he has a book in the pipeline. In January, Assouline 



>> Laura and Kate Mulleavy produce about 100 special-order Rodarte dresses a year and spent weeks perfecting the dyeing technique for their early "blood" dresses, ensuring that the red wouldn't leach into the white, but as for their own clothes, they don't aim to personify their brand: When they

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