>> Roberto Cavalli Spring 2010 Ad Cast Revealed; Daisy Lowe for Louis Vuitton? — Spring 2010 campaign cast details continue to flood in.  Isabeli Fontana Tweeted this morning, "Exciting news! I shot the new Cavalli campaign with Carolyn Murphy. The campaign was shot by Steven Meisel." And causing a little campaign confusion: WWD heard Lara Stone is the new face of Louis Vuitton, but now word is Daisy Lowe is shooting in Miami for the brand next week. [@Isabeli_Fontana, @LiveFashionWeek]

UPDATE: Lowe is being photographed by Vuitton for a new beach line press-kit. [WWD]

>> Cavalli Loses Minority Stake Deal; Prada Postpones Loan Payment —After three years of speculation, Roberto Cavalli almost had us convinced that he was ready to sell a minority stake in his company.  The deal he was working on with Clessidra — which was expected to be finalized by the end of September — fell through over the weekend after the private equity firm disagreed with Cavalli over the value of his business. Meanwhile at Prada, Miuccia and Patrizio Bertelli now have until 2012 to pay off $450 million after lenders agreed to an extension, a move that alleviates any pressure to sell a stake in Prada over their desired, but so far elusive, initial public offering. [WWD, WWD]

>> In the past year, Roberto Cavalli has commissioned a one bedroom home on his existing 32-acre estate in the Florentine countryside of Italy, fanning rumors that he and his business partner and second wife, Eva, of 28 years have split.  Their business partnership seems to continue — they took a bow at the end of the Cavalli menswear show together on June 22 — and she still lives in his previous home with the parrots and the indoor pool, just steps away, but when JJ Martin of T Magazine asked him if he ever goes into his old house: 

He decisively responds, "No, no, no." Does Eva mind his absence? "I don't know," he answers quietly. "You'll have to ask her." So this is a way to live together but apart, I suggest. "Right," he says. "Is that bad?"

His cat, "Pussy," keeps him company »

>> Roberto Cavalli Launches Made-to-Measure —Despite reports that he was foraying into couture, Roberto Cavalli introduced a made-to-measure service yesterday and stressed that it wasn't the start of a couture collection.  The new line, called Roberto Cavalli Saint-Honore, starts at about $42,000 for a cocktail dress, with no more than 35 dresses to be produced each year. “We already do it for clients from our studio in Milan,” said Eva Cavalli, the designer’s partner and wife. “But now we will have the workrooms here in Paris.” [WWD, NYTimes]

>> Roberto Cavalli to Debut Couture Next Week, Still On Track with Stake Deal —Roberto Cavalli is launching a couture service via a press conference on Monday, the first day of Fall 2009 Paris couture week.  His recently opened Paris flagship contains a couture salon, and pieces from the debut line will be unveiled on models at Monday's event. As for the minority stake in his company Cavalli hoped to have finalized with investor Clessidra by the end of June, a Clessidra senior partner said he expects the deal to come to a conclusion by the end of the Summer: "It's a long love affair, we're working on it." [WWD, Reuters]

>> Despite telling WWD a week ago that he was having doubts about selling a stake in his company — “I’m not so sure I want to sell in the end” — and saying that negotiations with potential buyer, Milan-based private equity firm Clessidra, were far from finished, Roberto Cavalli told Il Sole 24 Ore yesterday that he has signed a letter of intent to sell with the firm.

Cavalli had been negotiating to sell 20 percent of his company when he talked to WWD, but said Tuesday that the percent agreed on rose to 30.  He has until Sept. 30 to decide on the price of purchase, and expects the valuation of his company to come it at over 300 million euros (approximately $420 million) in light of a recent improvement in sales, but hopes the deal could be completed "perhaps before the end of June."

Once that is taken care of, the first projects with Clessidra would include finding a chief executive, with four names on the short list — apparently most top managers at major Italian fashion houses have been approached for the post — and a renewal of the Cavalli eyewear license.

>> Like everything else these days, this year's Costume Institute Gala might not be the bang-up event of the year it usually is.  Though Anna Wintour extends the brand invitations to purchase tables at the 700-person benefit dinner, prices run from $75,000 to $250,000 depending on the size of the label and its relationship with Vogue.  They're typically sold out well in advance, but some brands are balking this time around, and more profitable brands are being asked to carry a larger portion of the burden.

Burberry, Roberto Cavalli, Versace, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and Alberta Ferretti have all declined to do full-table sponsorship this year, instead buying individual seats, which range from $5,000 to $10,000 depending on location.  Ralph Lauren was undecided on sponsorship, according to a spokesperson. "We of course will be supporting the event — [we're] still not sure at what level yet." Calvin Klein, Puig Fashion Group (Nina Ricci, Carolina Herrera), and Tod's, on the other hand, have all confirmed that they will be sponsoring tables.

Since the focus is on models this time around, will there be less star power?  The theme might be convenient to brands with slashed budgets — flying in celebrities to accompany a designer can cost plenty after the flight, hotel bills, hair, makeup, and car services are all taken care of.
*image: source

>> Milan is infamous for being one of the hardest markets to break open for models of color, and unfortunately, that still seems to be the case, based on tallying by The Cut.  The worst offenders? Burberry, Giorgio Armani, Missoni, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, who all only used one model of color, while Gianfranco Ferre, Jil Sander, and Prada didn't use any.

Meanwhile, buyers have spoken on their Milanese favorites: Jil Sander, Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, and Gianfranco Ferré — surprisingly, Missoni was not in the mix.

A number of critics and retailers have Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi on their lists as Milan's most promising up-and-coming talent, but their situation at Gianfranco Ferre is currently tenuous — the front row Friday included three government-appointed special administrators, a reminder that owner IT Holding faces bankruptcy proceedings, and could take Ferre, Just Cavalli, John Galliano, and Malo down with it.  Regardless, hopes are high — as Linda Fargo, fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, put it, "Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi continue to show the promise of world-class design for the future — both in their own line and at Gianfranco Ferré. We hope the dust settles favorably on Ferre as the two designers are hitting the right notes."  

Other highlights on the to-watch list: Christopher Kane at Versus and, for next season, Vionnet, under the care of Prada alum Rodolfo Paglialunga.
*image: source