fashionologie

Glamorous Ghouls and Gorgeous Girls - Backstage at Lanvin, Dior, Balmain, Carven, and Rick Owens

Christina Perez — Sat, 01 Oct 2011 18:58:06 PDT

>> Lanvin, Dior, Balmain, Carven, Rick Owens - the past few days of Paris Fashion Week have been busy ones, so it's no wonder that the backstage mood has been just as high-energy as ever. The ladies of Lanvin played up the mystique with giant fans and new-wave shades; the girls at Dior looked demure in ladylike lipstick and super-sweet poses; and there was plenty of playful frolicking - not to mention an eye-catching array of candy-hued shoes - at Carven. Balmain offered up a dose of rock n' roll glamour with gilded shorts and heavy hardware, while the ethereal vibe at Rick Owens made for lots of ghoulish creeping. All the behind-the-scenes action and more, here in the slideshow.

Photos by Greg Kessler

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Rick Owens Spring 2012

fashionologie — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 14:58:37 PDT

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Required Reading - Fall's Most Anticipated Fashion Books

Christina Perez — Tue, 16 Aug 2011 16:20:25 PDT

>> Read between the lines with these: the best of the upcoming season's fashion tomes. From designer anthologies to magazine compendiums to haute biographies - there are three on Coco Chanel alone - this Fall is, literally, one for the books. In fact, it seems like everyone who's anyone will debut a coffee-table edition come October: Carine Roitfeld, Rick Owens, Ralph Lauren, Christian Louboutin, and Glenda Bailey all have glossy monographs on the way. Here, the volumes we just can't wait to devour.

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Gareth Pugh Didn't Sell A Piece of Clothing Until His Fourth or Fifth Show

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Mar 2011 13:28:30 PDT

>> Gareth Pugh has come a long way from living in a squat house in 2005. The road hasn't been an easy one, however, he tells Vice in its new Style Issue: "We didn’t sell anything from the poodle or gimp shows - nothing until the fourth or fifth show. My first show was such a last-minute thing. I was only really thinking about the show and not selling stuff afterward. But once you start showing, you’re on the treadmill and have to carry on." Even a couple of years ago, he says, "There was a point, right before a show, when I barely had enough money to get my team over to Paris."

But now, Pugh is definitely starting to consider the financial aspect of his brand (and perhaps explains why he leans toward short films in place of runway shows): "At the moment I feel very much between a rock and a hard place. People expect an amazing show, but in order to do that in Paris you have to sell a lot of clothes, which maybe means people have to be able to imagine the clothes on hangers."

More from Pugh in Vice:

On why he opened his first store in Hong Kong: "Rick Owens’s wife, Michelle Lamy [Pugh's backer], thinks moneyed Chinese women like to look very chic, like avant-garde punks. I just make more sense over there. In America I’m seen as a little bit niche and weird."

On his relationship with Rick Owens: "I’m closer to his wife, Michelle. He always describes himself as the distant, stern father figure and she is like the overgenerous mother. She’s very critical about what I do, which I like. It’s good to have someone who doesn’t always give you unadulterated praise."

On his strangest fashion industry experiences: "Driving to the Palace of Versailles with Jeremy Scott, Suzy Menkes, Jefferson Hack, and Anouck Lepere was pretty funny. Everyone wanted to see this Jeff Koons exhibition - Anouck tried to climb the fence, Jefferson got into a fight with a security guard, and Suzy Menkes was taking pictures. That was weird. Oh, and the time I’d booked my housemates a holiday in Gran Canaria but got flown to New York to shoot with Mario Testino. I ended up at the Met Ball afterward and found myself having a fag with Christian Slater in the toilets while David Beckham took a piss at the urinal. The toilets there are a real superstar clusterf*ck. I just couldn’t work out why I was there."

On the clothes he wears: "I never buy clothes, so I don’t really have a choice when it comes to what I wear. I am very lucky to be able to pull a lot of Rick Owens and steal some of my stuff from the factory. (I have to steal my own samples [because] I don’t get a personal order quota. It’s a license.) But other than that I buy H&M hoodies and Topshop jeans."

On why he doesn't use much color: "The designs are more about the whole thing rather than the details, and if I were to do the big shapes I do, color would maybe be too much. Pink or red would push it all over the edge."

Rick Owens Fall 2011

fashionologie — Fri, 04 Mar 2011 10:34:05 PST

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Carine Roitfeld Has a New (and Secret) Fashion Project in the Works

fashionologie — Thu, 10 Feb 2011 22:55:58 PST

>> Carine Roitfeld has popped over to New York - last night, she wore Givenchy couture to the amfAR Gala "because I’m working with amfAR and it’s very important for me to be here," and tonight, she was at her son Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld's RETNA art opening, wearing "all Rick Owens," she told us, but she's "not seeing any fashion shows" and goes back to Paris on Saturday. She's definitely not out of fashion for good - last night she told The Cut, "I have a new project" which is "in fashion, of course." Although she's "too superstitious" to discuss details, she did promise more information "in one month." [The Cut]

Backstage Snaps from Paris Fashion Week Part One: Daria Werbowy at Balmain, Crystal Renn at Zac Posen, and More

fashionologie — Mon, 04 Oct 2010 06:21:21 PDT

>> With Paris Fashion Week in full swing, we've got a look at Daria Werbowy and Carmen Kass backstage at Balmain - the latter showing off her new crop; Crystal Renn, Sessilee Lopez, Hilary Rhoda, and Coco Rocha all having a ball at Zac Posen; plus behind the scenes snaps from Dries van Noten, Nina Ricci, Rochas, and Rick Owens.

Photos: Greg Kessler

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Rick Owens Spring 2011

fashionologie — Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:29:21 PDT

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Ode to Paris Fashion Week - Go Laissez-Faire With 7 Edgy Pieces

fashionologie — Wed, 29 Sep 2010 21:44:52 PDT

Now that we've paid tribute to the lady-like Parisian, it's time to call upon the other end of the the spectrum: the edgy rebel. Paris Fashion Week presenters, like Balmain and Isabel Marant, are sure to show exciting collections this week, but until then, shop some of their items - along with pieces from Rick Owens and Lanvin - available now!

Left to right: Clemence Poesy, Rick Owens Silk-blend Jersey Tank ($235), Isabel Marant Earrings ($550), Chanel Oversized Wallet Clutch ($890), Isabel Marant Chain-Mail Scarf Necklace ($290), Rick Owens Distressed Denim and Leather Jacket ($1,080), Balmain Suede Pants ($5,865), Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Lanvin Cutout Pumps ($1,110)

When Marc Jacobs Gifted Her His Perry Ellis Grunge Collection, Courtney Love Burned It

fashionologie — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 11:03:38 PDT

>> Courtney Love, who launched WhatCourtneyWoreToday.com last week, has been gifted many a designer dud over the years, but she's typically given it an unconventional welcome. She's set fire to some of it (“Marc [Jacobs] sent me and Kurt [Cobain] his Perry Ellis grunge collection . . . We burned it. We were punkers - we didn’t like that kind of thing.”); tried to take shears to some of it (“I went to whack [a floral, Empire-waist couture gown given to her by John Galliano in 1997] with scissors because it would be more useful that way . . . Somebody said to me, ‘You aren’t whacking s--t and this is why,’ and explained to me what couture was.") . . . and has even worked out in some of it ("I perform in Rick [Owens], I sleep in Rick and I jog in Rick. I have, like, eight pairs of his harem pants. I’ve been running in Rick Owens for years.")

She credits Karl Lagerfeld with turning her around »