fashionologie

Givenchy Fall 2012

Christina Perez — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 11:26:02 PST

>> "Horse riding, Guy Bourdin, and Paris in the '70s," were Riccardo Tisci's talking points for Fall 2012 Givenchy. The horse-riding influence was present in the form of equestrian jackets, slouchy jodhpurs, and chap-like knee-high boots. But this wasn't your average English countryside jaunt; there were also ruffled peplums and undulating bustles, lacy boudoir slip dresses, ruffles of scarlet chiffon, and an eye-popping amount of slick black leather. The tough sexiness? Part of it was the Guy Bourdin '70s bit, sure, but mostly it was all Tisci.

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See Gisele Bundchen on the Givenchy Spring 2012 Campaign Set

fashionologie — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:51:25 PST

>> Although there were rumors that Gisele Bundchen shot the Spring 2012 Givenchy campaign last month in Jamaica, it seems that was not the case. Bundchen was snapped with Riccardo Tisci earlier today, shooting the campaign on the beaches of Barcelona. We've got a few snaps from the set; this may not be the end of Bundchen's Spring 2012 campaign streak - the model, who is already headed home to Brazil, is also said to be in the upcoming Versace campaign.

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Givenchy Spring 2012

fashionologie — Sun, 02 Oct 2011 19:05:19 PDT

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Kanye West Reportedly Gets a Designer Mentor, Sets a Show Date

fashionologie — Tue, 13 Sep 2011 08:51:26 PDT

>> Kanye West has been noticeably MIA from New York Fashion Week, reportedly because he's prepping for his own womenswear launch during Paris Fashion Week next month. Harper's Bazaar Australia, whose own Christine Centenera is said to be collaborating with West on the collection, reports that he will show as part of the official Paris Fashion Week calendar (which has not yet been released), at 9.30 pm on Oct. 1, directly after Jean Paul Gaultier and Loewe - instead of doing a presentation-style format for key editors only.

Riccardo Tisci, who designed the artwork for West's new album with Jay-Z, Watch the Throne, is reportedly mentoring West on the collection.

Report - Marc Jacobs Could Be Headed to Dior and Phoebe Philo to Louis Vuitton

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 07:14:24 PDT

>> A couple of weeks after rumors popped up suggesting that Marc Jacobs was at the top of the pack to take over as Dior's new designer, reports corroborate that the rumors just might be true.

According to WWD, Bernard Arnault is in talks with Jacobs about moving from Louis Vuitton to Dior, and meetings have reportedly been scheduled in Paris this week between Dior officials and legal representatives for Jacobs. Jacobs, who signed on as Vuitton's artistic director in 1997, has been in the midst of renewing his employment contract at Vuitton, but those discussions are said to have been put on hold, pending the outcome of Jacobs's discussions with Dior.

One source cautioned WWD that deal with Jacobs is not done, but both the designer and Dior management are so far "excited" about the prospect. If the deal goes through, Jacobs will get his first opportunity as a couturier, and his business partner Robert Duffy would come with him. Dior declined to comment on the reports, and Jacobs could not be reached for comment.

As for who would replace Jacobs at Vuitton, it sounds like Phoebe Philo could be first in line. LVMH has already reportedly held preliminary discussions with Philo, who is said to be "intrigued" by the project. If the shuffling plays out, it's reportedly likely she would design Vuitton in addition to Celine.

WWD reports that a number of potential candidates have been approached to succeed John Galliano, who exited Dior in March, including Alber Elbaz, Nicolas Ghesquière, Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Hedi Slimane. Elbaz and Ghesquiere, who both have equity stakes in and strong commitments to the houses they design for, have withdrawn themselves from the running, and Burton is said to have rebuffed overtures. Talks with Ackermann and Slimane, meanwhile, did not end in an agreement. As for Riccardo Tisci, he is still considered a dark-horse candidate, and has been championed by Delphine Arnault, Dior deputy managing director and Bernard Arnault's daughter.

Givenchy Fall 2011 Couture

fashionologie — Tue, 05 Jul 2011 17:19:54 PDT

>> With all the high profile weddings this year, it's no wonder that the idea of a white, floor-length gown has seeped into Riccardo Tisci's mind. For the Givenchy Fall 2011 couture collection, he produced ten such dresses, shown grouped into three rooms named "tears of angels," the "cloud room," and "bird of paradise" after their respective inspirations.

Explaining his color of choice for the dresses, Tisci said: “I try to find the light in the darkness . . . White has become very strong - when women want to be sexy and romantic at the same time, white is there.” His favorite dress of the collection, covered with hand-cut tulle paillettes, was inspired by his graduation project at Central St. Martins.

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Kate Moss the Bride - A First Look at Her Zelda Fitzgerald-Inspired Galliano Dress

fashionologie — Fri, 01 Jul 2011 09:17:47 PDT

>> A few pictures are starting to roll in of Kate Moss heading to her wedding in a silver Rolls Royce, her father Peter and 8-year-old daughter Lila Grace Hack (who's set to serve as her chief bridesmaid and is said to be wearing Stella McCartney) by her side. Her dress, confirmed to be designed by John Galliano, is lightly sequined, and her shoes are confirmed to be Manolo Blahniks with blue lining - as in "something blue" - rather than Christian Louboutin as previously thought.

The wedding dress was inspired by Zelda Fitzgerald, whose engagement ring Moss is wearing. Galliano did the final fitting earlier this week in Europe, while in care, WWD reports. “Kate is his biggest muse and he was never, ever going to let his friend down,” one source said. “He did Kate’s 21st birthday dress, her 30th birthday dress, and Galliano’s show was the first she ever walked for. So this wedding day ties up a lot of things beautifully.”

Moss is expected to make a number of outfit changes this evening, Vogue UK reports, three of which will be designed by her close friend Stella McCartney. For her first dance, Moss will wear an oyster silk chiffon dress with embroidered bodice and a cut-out back, then she'll change into a mini body-con dress with a plunging back and beading all over. Finally, for her going-away suit, she'll wear a single-breasted, three-piece white wool suit.

Naomi Campbell (wearing Givenchy couture by Riccardo Tisci), Stella McCartney (in a white, tailored look of her own design), Daphne Guinness (in a light blue dress of her own design), Philip Treacy, Carine Roitfeld (in vintage Galliano), Emmanuelle Alt (in Balmain), and Anna Wintour (in a Mondrian-inspired Prada dress) are all understood to have attended the ceremony.

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Karl Lagerfeld on Cutting His Hair, Christophe Decarnin, and Who He'd Like to See at Dior

fashionologie — Mon, 25 Apr 2011 13:29:38 PDT

>> Karl Lagerfeld has never been one to hold verbal punches, and his recent conversation with W - in which he tells us how he really feels about Christophe Decarnin, explains why he doesn't use computers, and vouches for which designers he would like to see at Dior - is no exception.

A few highlights, below.

On whether he'll ever cut his hair: "No, because I’m afraid it won’t grow again. And I’m not very gifted for hairdos. This is the quickest thing in the world. It takes less than five seconds. I have someone who comes to the house and washes it, puts in the dry shampoo, and takes care of it because I have no time. I don’t even have time to go to the dentist. I’m busy but in a pleasant way. I’m the one who wanted to do all of it, so I can’t complain."

On who he wants to see take over at Givenchy: "Well I’m not a consultant there, but I think Riccardo Tisci would be good, and then Haider Ackermann at Givenchy - not because they are friends of mine, but because they are good."

And if he still wants Haider Ackermann to take over at Chanel: "Not especially. It’s not his world I don’t think."

His thoughts on Christophe Decarnin leaving Balmain: "Forget about it! This was a job done by a fashion editor. I don’t even know the name of the man who did it, so don’t ask me about that."

On why he doesn't use a computer and instead communicates by fax: "It’s very easy to explain: For me, sketching and writing are the same thing. I like to write. It’s a physical thing - I hate to be without paper and pencil in hand. And I write like a talk. I can put my way of talking on the paper exactly the same way. The machines they tried to make where you write directly on computers are not perfect. The minute they’re perfect, I will use them."

The one thing he doesn't like women to wear: "I’m not mad for thongs."

On whether he takes vacations: "I’m not an employee who goes to the office every morning at the same time. Then, vacations are not needed. I’m like a rock singer with one-night stands on the road. I’m here for two days in New York; I leave in the morning early. I come back for Anna Wintour’s party at the Met, then again at the end of May for a prize I get from the Gordon Parks Foundation. I’m lucky that I can do all these things in the best conditions. I don’t have to struggle for that. I don’t have to discuss budgets. I don’t do meetings. At Chanel, there are no meetings. At Chanel, we do what we want, whenever we want and it works. And Fendi is the same."

On not eating or craving sugar: "I like chocolate. I don’t eat it, but I like the smell of it. People can drink with their eyes; I can eat with my nose. I would love to have a perfume based on chocolate."

Riccardo Tisci Prays Before Every Givenchy Show

fashionologie — Mon, 25 Apr 2011 13:00:05 PDT

>> Riccardo Tisci is subversive in a lot of ways, but, he says: "At the end of the day, I believe in my Jesus Christ, I believe in my God, and I am Catholic. It's one of the world's oldest religions and it's not quick to change. My mother will tell you that, I might not seem it, I might not look it, but I am a good, religious boy." And that carries beyond using religious iconography in his work: Tisci says he prays before each show, and puts salt in the four corners of the show venue "to avoid negative energy. I'm superstitious, that is very much part of religion." [Independent UK]

Riccardo Tisci Reportedly Lobbying for Dior Job; Plus, the Other Designers on LVMH's Short List

fashionologie — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 12:08:17 PDT

>> LVMH is taking its time with the announcement of Dior's new designer, and it sounds like the decision still has yet to be made. At a recent shareholders' meeting, Bernard Arnault said the plan was to interview a number of candidates before making the call when "conviction" arrives.

But who's reportedly on the short list of candidates Bernard Arnault's advisors have submitted? Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Olivier Theyskens, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann, Prabal Gurung, and Sarah Burton. However, a source in Paris told WWD that LVMH is placing less importance on marquee names and focusing rather on “someone who understands Dior and fits the needs of the company.”

While Arnault, chairman of the board at Dior, is sure to get the final say on the appointee, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who has helmed the company since 1998, and Delphine Arnault (Bernard's daughter), deputing managing director at Dior and widely viewed as the eventual LVMH heir apparent, are also expected to weigh in. Apparently Dior execs are also receiving unsolicited designer suggestions from top editors and even shareholders.

Delphine, for her part, is seen as a champion of Riccardo Tisci; the Givenchy designer has reportedly been lobbying for the position as well, sketching out his vision for the brand. Bernard Arnault, meanwhile, is reportedly transfixed by royalty, and if Sarah Burton does dress Kate Middleton for her wedding at the end of the month (despite Burton's and the McQueen company's denials), she may pull ahead in the race. Arnault would be keen to launch the new Dior alongside the newly-married couple; Princess Diana, after all, helped catapult the brand's image in 1995 when she wore a Lady Dior bag and then in 1996 when she wore a midnight blue, bias-cut Dior gown by John Galliano to the Costume Institute Gala.

In the meantime, design duties are falling on Dior's in-house design studios, headed by Bill Gaytten, who has worked beside Galliano since the '80s. They're already creating the Cruise 2012 collection and have started in on the upcoming Fall 2011 couture collection, in preparation for its debut in July.