fashionologie

Roberto Cavalli Admits He's Not the Party Animal He Used to Be at His $2 Million 40th Anniversary Bash

fashionologie — Thu, 30 Sep 2010 12:54:27 PDT

>> Roberto Cavalli reportedly spent about $2 million on his 40th anniversary bash held last night at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris - and that doesn't include the budget allotted to bringing Natalia Vodianova (and perhaps some of the other 1,200 attendees) to the party. As the New York Times's Eric Wilson wrote: "It was one of those fashion parties that felt like another era, when it was possible to enjoy such extravagance without wondering how a designer could possibly be selling enough animal-printed evening gowns and exuberantly distressed denim to afford it all."

Kylie Minogue performed, the walls were lined with Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott's images of models in Cavalli, and Heidi Klum introduced the designer as a four-tier, 10-foot birthday cake covered in sparklers was wheeled onto the stage. But even through all that, Cavalli, almost 70, admitted he's not the party animal he used to be: “Don’t say it, don’t say it, please, because the people should still dream with me,” he said. “The young should think that, instead of sparkling water, I drink Krug, or that I still smoke 10 Cuban cigars every day.”

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Renzo Rosso Repositioning Diesel Black Gold Under Sophia Kokosalaki

fashionologie — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 12:36:27 PDT

>> Under the lead of designer Sophia Kokosalaki, who debuted her first collection for Diesel Black Gold in February for Fall 2010 (with Kate Lanphear styling), Diesel founder Renzo Rosso is in the midst of repositioning the label.

Rosso broke Black Gold off as a separate business division and company veteran Andrea Baldo has been named the label's new general manager. Baldo plans to bring higher quality to Black Gold by using mostly Italian fabrics, tightening distribution (the men's line will be available exclusively at Barneys in the Fall), and creating a new logo, a new shop concept, and more accessories. There will also be dedicated Black Gold advertising campaigns.

As for the core denim »

Martin Margiela Is Officially Totally Gone from MMM and Will Not Be Replaced

fashionologie — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 14:08:18 PST

>> For the better part of a year, rumors of Martin Margiela's withdrawal from his label have plagued the industry. In October, majority owner Renzo Rosso finally confirmed that Margiela was no longer involved in design and later said he was about to name a replacement.

It seems Rosso has changed his mind: Giovanni Pungetti, chief executive of Maison Martin Margiela, said today that the designer has quietly left the comapny and will not be replaced. The fashion house, which had in the past offered his job to Haider Ackermann and Raf Simons, will continue to operate with the creative staff, 28-strong, that Margiela developed over his 20-year stint. According to Pungetti: “It would have been very simple to hire someone else, and we evaluated that option, but in the end, what is important is the taste of designer."

What spurred the departure? »

fashionologie — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 11:29:30 PDT

>> Renzo Rosso Expects To Name New Margiela Designer Shortly -It was only recently finally confirmed that Martin Margiela is no longer involved with the designing at Maison MM, but the brand's majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso, according to The Moment, says he's "thisclose to naming a new designer at Martin Margiela. Rosso stressed that Martin Margiela will continue to be involved with his namesake label, albeit at a distance." [The Moment, @themoment]

Sophia Kokosalaki Is Doing Denim for Diesel Black Gold

fashionologie — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:58:32 PDT

>> First Ann-Sofie Back signs on as head designer to help Cheap Monday branch out from its denim roots, and now Sophia Kokosalaki is joining Diesel Black Gold in a lead design role: is this a trend coming on, name designers helping to restructure denim brands?

Black Gold is Diesel's high-end contemporary line, and Kokosalaki is being brought in to overhaul the brand - which is not showing a Spring 2010 collection at New York Fashion Week this September as it typically would - starting with the relaunched Fall 2010 collection next February. Kokosalaki nearly always wears black and denim herself, and Diesel chairman Renzo Rosso has full faith in her "incredible" talent and "skill in dealing with denim and contemporary casual, the core of Diesel Black Gold." The position is quite a change from her stint as creative director of French house Vionnet.

Rosso bought a majority stake in Kokosalaki's namesake line last year, and her new position at Diesel has allowed her to acquire her label back from Rosso for an undisclosed sum. She plans to continue to develop the line independently.

Miuccia Prada Descends, Naomi Campbell Causes Commotion at the 2009 Venice Biennale

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Jun 2009 14:35:43 PDT

>> The Venice Biennale contemporary arts exhibition attracted plenty of familiar fashion faces by last Thursday, but it wouldn't have been complete without an appearance by contemporary art patron Miuccia Prada, who obliged on Friday with a party courtesy of the Fondazione Prada. The opening was temporarily put off by torrential rains, but still managed to attract the likes of Marc Jacobs, Lorenzo Martone, Franca Sozzani, Carine Roitfeld, Carla Sozzani, and Dasha Zhukova.

Many of the guests then carried on to Francois Pinault's Palazzo Grassi, where Gucci Group was sponsoring a party in honor of L'Uomo Vogue's art issue. Naomi Campbell - who one observer noted was keeping a lower profile than at the Biennale in 2007 - joined the crowd, apparently making quite the entrance with boyfriend Vladislav Doronin and his bodyguards and causing one guest to joke, "Does he need them to protect himself from Naomi?"

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Venice Biennale Overflowing with Fashion Figures and Their Families

fashionologie — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 14:09:06 PDT

>> Where art goes, fashion is soon to follow, and with the contemporary arts Biennale going on in Venice right now, there are plenty of designers, editors, and even models in town. On Wednesday, Olympia Scarry’s installation brought out Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue Russia's Aliona Doletskaya, and POP's Dasha Zhukova, as well as Justin Portman and Natalia Vodianova, the latter whose face was reflected in a luminated, aged sketch on display called Dorian Gray, by artist Dasha Fursey.

Naomi Campbell and boyfriend Vladislav Doronin stopped by a lunch for the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art, and popped up again yesterday at the opening of Francois Pinault's new museum, the Punta della Dogana. Stella McCartney was there with husband Alasdhair Willis to support her financier in his new endeavor, as were Franca Sozzani and Marc Jacobs, always the fan of contemporary art, who apparently kept exclaiming, "This place rocks."

Meanwhile, down the river, Angela Missoni held her annual party on boyfriend Bruno Ragazzi's yacht. It was quite the family and friends affair: Angela's daughters Margherita and Teresa, plus son Francesco were all mingling, Franca Sozzani brought son Francesco Carrozzini, and Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld arrived with Carine Roitfeld, who neglected to follow the rest in taking her lace-up shoes off: "It would just take too long to undo them." Bee Shaffer was sans Anna Wintour, but Jefferson Hack brought fiancee Anouck Lepere.

Even those who aren't in Venice in person are there in spirit - Mario Testino sent one of his art consultants to scout the exhibition.

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Martin Margiela to Leave Maison Imminently?

fashionologie — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 11:03:04 PDT

>> Martin Margiela may rarely speak out, but over the weekend, plenty of people were doing some talking for him. As the designer prepares for his twentieth anniversary Maison Martin Margiela show this evening, rumors are swirling that he is about to exit fashion entirely.

Over the last year, Margiela has told colleagues that he wants to stop designing and is looking for a successor, and two designers have admitted to be in talks with Renzo Rosso, who owns Maison Martin Margiela. One of those designers may be Raf Simons, who earlier this year discussed the possibility of replacing Margiela before ultimately deciding to stay at Jil Sander.

Although some of Margiela's colleagues disagree, Renzo Rosso said last week that "for a long time [Margiela] has a strong team and does not work on the collection, just on special projects," which if true, leaves the potential new designer with an open door.
*image: source

fashionologie — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 22:19:49 PDT

>> MODA OPERANDI —Renzo Rosso has diversified once again, taking a majority stake in Viktor & Rolf. The Dutch duo are the latest addition to the Diesel owner's portfolio, in addition to Maison Martin Margiela, Sophia Kokosalaki, and Dsquared. [IHT]

The Italian Fashion Contingent (Plus Some) Ring in L'uomo Vogue's 40th and Fabulous

fashionologie — Mon, 23 Jun 2008 11:09:29 PDT

>> It's not often that photographers get photographed themselves, but that's just what happened at the L'Uomo Vogue 40th Anniversary Celebration Party last night in Milan: Steven Klein stepped up for a photo op with Alexander McQueen and Natalia Vodianova!

A full gallery of the event below, including plenty of faces that are used to being in front of the camera: Anna Wintour, Naomi Campbell, Franca Sozzani . . .
*image: source, source View Slideshow ›