>> Renzo Rosso Expects To Name New Margiela Designer Shortly —It was only recently finally confirmed that Martin Margiela is no longer involved with the designing at Maison MM, but the brand's majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso, according to The Moment, says he's "thisclose to naming a new designer at Martin Margiela. Rosso stressed that Martin Margiela will continue to be involved with his namesake label, albeit at a distance." [The Moment, @themoment]

>> First Ann-Sofie Back signs on as head designer to help Cheap Monday branch out from its denim roots, and now Sophia Kokosalaki is joining Diesel Black Gold in a lead design role: is this a trend coming on, name designers helping to restructure denim brands?

Black Gold is Diesel's high-end contemporary line, and Kokosalaki is being brought in to overhaul the brand — which is not showing a Spring 2010 collection at New York Fashion Week this September as it typically would — starting with the relaunched Fall 2010 collection next February.  Kokosalaki nearly always wears black and denim herself, and Diesel chairman Renzo Rosso has full faith in her "incredible" talent and "skill in dealing with denim and contemporary casual, the core of Diesel Black Gold."  The position is quite a change from her stint as creative director of French house Vionnet.

Rosso bought a majority stake in Kokosalaki's namesake line last year, and her new position at Diesel has allowed her to acquire her label back from Rosso for an undisclosed sum.  She plans to continue to develop the line independently.

>> Martin Margiela may rarely speak out, but over the weekend, plenty of people were doing some talking for him.  As the designer prepares for his twentieth anniversary Maison Martin Margiela show this evening, rumors are swirling that he is about to exit fashion entirely.

Over the last year, Margiela has told colleagues that he wants to stop designing and is looking for a successor, and two designers have admitted to be in talks with Renzo Rosso, who owns Maison Martin Margiela.  One of those designers may be Raf Simons, who earlier this year discussed the possibility of replacing Margiela before ultimately deciding to stay at Jil Sander.

Although some of Margiela's colleagues disagree, Renzo Rosso said last week that "for a long time [Margiela] has a strong team and does not work on the collection, just on special projects," which if true, leaves the potential new designer with an open door.
*image: source

>> MODA OPERANDI —Renzo Rosso has diversified once again, taking a majority stake in Viktor & Rolf.  The Dutch duo are the latest addition to the Diesel owner's portfolio, in addition to Maison Martin Margiela, Sophia Kokosalaki, and Dsquared. [IHT]