>> New York Fashion Week is still over a month away, but Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week just released its official calendar today and the Fashion Calendar — which shows all of the shows not included in the Bryant Park festivities — has appeared online, so we can get an idea of what will be going down in that crazy time period between Sept. 9 and Sept. 17.

Despite the industry's economic doldrums, a few designers are adding an extra show for Spring 2010 — Ralph Lauren is upgrading from two showings to three in his usual morning-of-the-last-day spot; Phillip Lim is following in close friend Richard Chai's footsteps, doing a two separate shows this season, one for men's and one for women's, rather than combining them like he usually does; and Thom Browne, who chose to show his Fall 2009 collection in Florence instead of at New York Fashion Week, is back on the schedule with not one but two shows.

Vladimir Restoin-Roitfeld is hosting an event again »

>> INSIDER WIRE —Bruce Weber popped up Tuesday to be honored alongside Liya Kebede at a gala in memory of former Vogue photographer Gordon Parks, marking his first time in New York after an extended absence. “I’ve been traveling on the road a lot and this is my first time back in the city, so I’m a little in shock. I have six dogs so we’re traveling and I’ve met some real American characters.”  He was apparently in a jovial mood, and expressed his adoration for Kate Moss: “I photographed her when she first came here. It was her first job, and we’ve traveled a lot together. I really love her as a friend.” [Modelinia]

>> Tao Okamoto was tapped as one of the top faces to watch after Fall 2009 runway season, and designers are clearly enamored.  Phillip Lim recently named her his muse and had all models on his Fall 2009 runway wear wigs cropped just like her hair, and now Ralph Lauren has welcomed her into his stable alongside current mainstays Ubah Hassan (who recently talked about what her Ralph casting was like) and Valentina Zelyaeva for his Fall 2009 campaign.

A lot of attention has been placed on bringing more models of color into the mix, but with heavy prevalence placed on black models; Tao's appointment could open the gateway for Asian models in major campaigns.  Her agency promises "this is just the beginning of things to come for Ms. Okamoto," and Ralph is a good place to start — the exclusive contract Valentina Zelyaeva has had with the brand since 2005 helped elevate her to Forbes' list of 15 top-earning models last year, ringing in at $2.3 million, and her agent touting a Ralph Lauren deal as "one of the greatest things you can have."
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>> Like everything else these days, this year's Costume Institute Gala might not be the bang-up event of the year it usually is.  Though Anna Wintour extends the brand invitations to purchase tables at the 700-person benefit dinner, prices run from $75,000 to $250,000 depending on the size of the label and its relationship with Vogue.  They're typically sold out well in advance, but some brands are balking this time around, and more profitable brands are being asked to carry a larger portion of the burden.

Burberry, Roberto Cavalli, Versace, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and Alberta Ferretti have all declined to do full-table sponsorship this year, instead buying individual seats, which range from $5,000 to $10,000 depending on location.  Ralph Lauren was undecided on sponsorship, according to a spokesperson. "We of course will be supporting the event — [we're] still not sure at what level yet." Calvin Klein, Puig Fashion Group (Nina Ricci, Carolina Herrera), and Tod's, on the other hand, have all confirmed that they will be sponsoring tables.

Since the focus is on models this time around, will there be less star power?  The theme might be convenient to brands with slashed budgets — flying in celebrities to accompany a designer can cost plenty after the flight, hotel bills, hair, makeup, and car services are all taken care of.
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>> THE ZEITGEIST —Having a camera-toting entourage seems to be in vogue this season: Coco Rocha had an E! camera crew following her around in New York, Jessica Stam led MTV News around backstage at Anna Sui, Anna Wintour, who was joined by 60 Minutes's Morley Safer at Ralph Lauren and more recently, Dolce & Gabbana, is still filming for that video profile, and now Carine Roitfeld is being followed by a CNN crew in Milan and Paris for a Revealed show, to be aired after the Paris collections. [WWD Twitter, CNN]

>> THE MODELIZER —Ubah Hassan, the Somalian model who first appeared the historic issue of Vogue Italia last year, has become a Ralph Lauren favorite.  She closed out his Spring 2009 show last September and joins Valentina Zelyaeva in the label's Spring 2009 campaign, which is big for two reasons — first, because Valentina's Ralph exclusive helped catapult her onto the list of top-earning models for 2008, and second, because we all know what a little Ralph love can do for a model — think Tyson Beckford. [TFS]

>> INSIDER WIRE —Now that the New York Fashion Week dates have been pushed back to Feb. 13-20, the London Fashion Week organizers aren't the only ones feeling the time crunch.  With the Academy Awards just two days after the conclusion of Fashion Week on Feb. 22, red carpet-friendly designers like J.Mendel, Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa, Proenza Schouler, Vera Wang, Calvin Klein, Zac Posen, L'Wren Scott, and Ralph Lauren — all of whom show on the last three days of Fashion Week — are going to have a doozy of a time getting samples from runway to red carpet for the big night.  [FWD]

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>> INSIDER WIRE —What terrible news were Anna Wintour and Ralph Lauren sharing over lunch at Michael's today?  They arrived at the restaurant "on the early side" and "were still deep in conversation after much of the dining room had departed . . . The pair looked downright anguished," and "leaned over the table with their foreheads practically touching as Ralph propped his head up with his hands and rubbed his eyes."  Wonder which end the trouble was on . . . [FishbowlNY]
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