>> Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are expanding Rag & Bone in every which way for Spring 2010 — sunglasses in three types of tortoiseshell, accessories spanning belts to stick pins to sure-to-be-clamored over wedge boots. Just as much as the show is about cool girl basics — this time flutter-backed tops and fitted leather jackets — and how show stylist Tabitha Simmons pulled them all together, it's about the models.  Iselin Steiro, who hadn't walked a runway in a year, opened; model-to-watch Emily DiDonato made it her first runway show ever; Kinga Rajzak debuted a newly-dyed brunette 'do; and Jessica Stam, who is said to have collaborated on the collection, sat front row and Tweeted about it — she's only doing two New York shows, the first is Anna Sui.

>> Rag & Bone always attracts the legions — last season there was enough trouble filing in when the show space was the vast Pier 94; this season, the crowd had to push and shove their way through the two small double doors of Cedar Lake Ballet Theater, and a number of people who were supposed to have seats were forced to stand.  While the rest of us were bumped and budged, immobile, Julia Restoin Roitfeld knew how to conquer the immovable best — just after she waved hello to Genevieve Jones, a tall, modelesque man parted the crowd with an "Excuse me, I'm late for the show."  Presumably, everyone assumed he was a model trying to get backstage fifteen minutes after the show was scheduled to start.  Julia saw him and latched onto his elbow with a "Hey, Zack, I'm going to use you as an excuse to get through."  And with that, she was in — the rest of us still in the same place.  Turns out, the guy wasn't even in the show.

But Edita Vilkeviciute was, and Isabeli Fontana — who closed — Diana Farkhullina and Sigrid Agren — all new faces, in addition to Rag & Bone perennial favorites like Coco Rocha, Lily Donaldson, Sasha Pivovarova, Jessica Stam, and Julia Stegner.  The label's usual palette of navy, black, and gray was in place, with some unexpected pops of red in a flower brooch here, in an obi belt there.  Marcus Wainwright and David Neville worked with a different stylist this season — Tabitha Simmons — and she helped them take it to a new level — the chain mail detailing on a hem or peeking out under a jacket was an especially unique touch.
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>> Since she's not in London for Fashion Week, Vogue's Meredith Melling Burke showed up last night at Rag & Bone's store opening in New York, her two-year-old daughter Eloise Honor Burke in tow.  Who's betting we'll see this little girl listed as a Teen Vogue contributing editor in ten years time, Bee Shaffer-style?  She's getting in her fashion training already.
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>> Take working-class fashion, add a pinch of Joy Division, and you've got the inspiration David Neville and Marcus Wainwright were drawing on for their Spring 2009 collection. The Rag & Bone show changed venues this season from the upscale Cipriani to the more hard-edged Pier 94 — a change from polished to slightly edgy that you could also say was reflected in the clothes.

Black wraparound leather belts with threateningly sharp silver spikes accented so many of the looks, and are sure to be a must-have — but even the typical Rag & Bone tweedy suits were rock-n-rolled up with a leather mini, like Julia Dunstall's closing look, or a silvery silk sheen, like Jessica Stam's blazer.

The model cast was full of high notes — stalwarts like opener Sasha Pivovarova or Coco Rocha — and the coveted new girls like Aline Weber and Liu Wen. Arlenis Pena was there too: she's had a big day, between being named as the new face of Lancome and slipping up at BCBG this morning.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
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>> Where there are opening ceremonies for the US Open, there is sure to be an Anna Wintour appearance.  Last night was no disappointment — she joined Oscar and Annette de la Renta at the Arthur Ashe Stadium in Queens (wearing one of her favorite Oscar dresses, natch) and even stood to clap when Roger Federer was announced.

Oscar wasn't the only designer taking a breather from Spring 2009 preparations: David Neville and Marcus Wainwright of Rag & Bone, Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Vena Cava, and Sari Gueron were all also in attendance.
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