fashionologie

Paul Rowland's First Ford Show Package - For Spring 2011 - Highlights Tao Okamoto, Karmen Pedaru, and Dafne Cejas in Retro Style

fashionologie — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 06:15:16 PDT

>> Paul Rowland is heading into his first major show season as head of Ford's women's division. Though he recently said that as he aims to reinvigorate the 64-year-old agency, adding that his vision "is very different from [Ford co-founder] Eileen Ford’s," the first show package showcasing his stable of models - which gives a first visual idea of his brand presentation - does pay tribute to the Ford Model of yore. Teased wigs, retro twinsets, and pearls adorn the likes of Tao Okamoto, Karmen Pedaru, and Alana Zimmer. As Models.com points out, "Irony is the original Ford girls (sans the Rowland twist) looked something like this, all white gloved and be-hatted."

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Musical Chairs at Modeling Agencies As Supreme and Women Founder Paul Rowland Leaves for Ford

fashionologie — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:33:37 PDT

>> Last week, rumors of a major shift in the New York modeling agency setup floated around; eventually, it came out that Paul Rowland, the founder of Women Management and its Supreme offshoot, was leaving Supreme to head up the women's division at Ford.

According to Page Six's industry insider, Rowland, who sold the company which he founded in 1988 a few years ago, "had a huge salary there, but wasn't really getting along with management. So basically, he just left." Ford "cleaned house and canned everyone," says another source, to make way for Rowland and the agents he was bringing with him.

Caroline Poznanski, meanwhile, who ran Ford's women's division until Rowland's arrival, has been chosen by Supreme to take Rowland's old job. "It's one big game of musical chairs," reports the source. "There were rumors around that Supreme was just going to close, but instead they hired Poznanski and absorbed some other people who had been let go from Ford."

One booker notes: "The models at these places are in a tailspin. A lot, including [Ford girls] Chanel Iman and Jacquelyn Jablonski, don't know if they're staying or going. There will likely be a spate of lawsuits because both Paul and Caroline are trying to bring their girls over, but they have noncompetes in their contracts."

Some models have already switched »

Hanne-Gaby Odiele, Iris Strubegger, Tao Okamoto Go Balletic for Supreme's New York Show Package

fashionologie — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 15:17:40 PST

>> Couture kicked off in Paris today, but back in New York plans are being laid for ready-to-wear fashion week - just two and a half weeks away. Supreme Management released their show package for New York Fashion Week today, with the likes of Alana Zimmer, Hanne-Gaby Odiele, and promising newcomer Reina Montero captured in darkly balletic portraits by agency founder and photography dabbler Paul Rowland. Missing from the lineup are Cecilia Mendez, Flo Gennaro (who just walked Dior couture runway today), and last seaons' Prada closer Kate Kosushkina, but perhaps they'll pop up anyway. Full show package at Models.com.

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Hedi Slimane, Dior Homme Ready to Kiss and Make-Up?

fashionologie — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 15:28:34 PDT

»Is Dior Homme trying to get Hedi Slimane back? [Fashionista]

»Julia Restoin-Roitfeld's boyf Magnus Berger has a new magazine, The Last, out in September [FWD]

»Agyness Deyn recorded her first single, was snapped holding hands with The Strokes guitarist Albert Hammond Jr. [Chic Report, Just Jared]

»Alana Zimmer, Behati Prinsloo, and Rachel Clark went to an S&M festival last Sunday [Supreme Being]

»Gerard Darel replaced Charlotte Gainsbourg, who has been their face since 2003, with Meryl Streep's daughter Mamie Gummer for their Fall 2008 campaign [WWD]

»Naomi Campbell wore the same dress to Nelson Mandela's birthday dinner that Stephanie Seymour wore to the Costume Institute Gala [FabSugar]

»Full Giambattista Valli, Balenciaga Resort 2009 collections [Style.com, Style.com]

A Few Tom Ford Spring 2012 Details

fashionologie — Mon, 19 Sep 2011 09:00:50 PDT

>> Last night, Rachel Zoe, Anna Wintour, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley joined Tom Ford at Wolfgang Puck’s newly opened Cut restaurant in London just after his Spring 2012 show. Images of the collection won't be released until early next month, but some details have popped up.

The show cast: Abbey Lee Kershaw, Aline Weber, Anais Mali, Anja Rubik, Aymeline Valade, Bette Franke, Candice Swanepoel, Carmen Kass, Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Daphne Groeneveld, Edita Vilkeviciute, Emily Senko, Fei Fei Sun, Jasmine Tookes, Joan Smalls, Kristina Salinovic, Lais Ribeiro, Mirte Maas, Morgane Warnier, Olga Sherer, Sheila Marquez, Sojourner Morrell, and Sui He.

The collection, according to Hamish Bowles: "Amongst the hourglass silhouettes and powerfully sensual effects beloved of Ford fans, since his work at Gucci in the '90s, there was a thread of pre-Raphaelite romanticism in embroidered peasant blouses (of the type Matisse loved to paint) and even frothy, Renaissance-sleeved dresses that evoked the work of the great '60s and '70s London designer Ossie Clark." Also amongst the collection: "a lacquered anemone purple-satin trench coat," "a blush-pink chiffon tracksuit pant," "a cutaway mother-of-pearl wedge," and "the thinnest diamond-crusted heel."

The collection, according to Cathy Horyn: "[It] was loaded up with great day clothes, including loosely laced Moroccan blouses, fringed skirts and some simple but gorgeous dresses with ruching or a belt at the waist and a bubbled hem. A number of outfits also had corsets blended into the tone of the blouse. Equally strong were his evening option of slinky black pants - more like a ski pant - with a simple chiffon t-shirt coated with feathers at the front."

The collection, according to the Telegraph: "Mesh, marabou, raffia fringing, a candlewick effect which suggested long hours at the hand embroiderers, plaited satin ribbons - these were just some of the techniques applied onto those hourglass silhouettes. Throw in bosoms, cupped in cantilevered chiffon, checks, and some snakeskin skirts, and it could have all looked a bit much."

Photos of the dinner attendees, in the slideshow, plus a first peek at the collection from the model board.

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The Fashion World Reacts to Alexander McQueen's Death

fashionologie — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 21:27:51 PST

>> The news of Alexander McQueen's death hung like a dark cloud over the Fashion Week events today. The McQueen store down the street from Milk Studios in Manhattan, where a number of shows were held today, had its windows covered with white paper; a placard left on the ground outside. Passersby left flowers and notes in a makeshift memorial out front. Barneys, too, changed out its windows in tribute to McQueen - the store sold over 500 McQueen scarves today.

This morning at the BCBG show, just as the news broke, Anna Wintour left before the show's finale. The Ports 1961 show held a moment of silence in honor of McQueen, Cushnie et Ochs included a tribute note in their show's program, and at the LnA after party this evening, Patti Smith dedicated her performance to the designer.

Kate Moss, who was scheduled to hold a launch party for her Longchamp collection in London, postponed the event to mourn her friend. More changes to the calendar may be made: The Cut is reporting that editors might leave New York Fashion Week early for London in light of McQueen's death.

On Twitter, there was an outpouring of grief from the industry, collected below. T's Stefano Tonchi told The Cut he partially blames the rapidly increasing speed of the fashion system for McQueen's suicide:

We all know that this is a very critical moment in fashion, and that basically he is the first victim of what is a conflict between creativity and business. Today to be a fashion designer, you have to be a superman or superwoman. You have to have nerves of steel. You have to be so strong. And if you are a little bit weak, if you have psychological problems or weakness, you end up like him.” When McQueen began in fashion, designers worked on two or three collections a year, said Tonchi. “Now you have to be a business manager, a marketer. It’s, what? Eight, ten, fifteen collections a year. Men’s, women’s, couture, diffusion. Then they want accessories. Then they want watches. Then they want jewelry. It’s a machine, and I think that killed him.

Words from John Galliano, Anna Wintour, and many, many, more »

New York Fashion Week Tidbits: Zac Posen Downsizes Venue; Karl Lagerfeld to Make an Appearance?

fashionologie — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 15:26:19 PDT

>> New York Fashion Week is just about two weeks away, and the tidbits are flowing freely - a compilation of those so far:

Venue Changes

Zac Posen, who usually shows at the largest Bryant Park venue in Fashion Week's last evening slot, has switched to a 9 am slot at the much smaller Altman Building [Fashionista]
Organic, but not vegetarian: John Patrick is showing his eco-friendly Organic line in an upstairs speakeasy at iconic New York steakhouse Keens [FWD]

Alexander Wang bags a top-tier stylist »

bits and baubles

philleif — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 18:21:00 PDT

»Joy Bryant is attending the Costume Institute gala with Matthew Williamson in Pucci [FWD]
»Rachel Clark has joined the stable of Victoria's Secret models [The Cut]
»Stella McCartney has signed a new licensing deal for sunglasses, launching in Summer 2009 [Yahoo]
»Jessie Randall of Loeffler Randall on her personal style [WSJ]