>> For the first time since launching his RM line, Roland Mouret showed during Paris Fashion Week; until now, he's debuted collections during couture season.  It was perfect time to make the move, considering that his trademark tailored origami dresses are right on par with the sober chic mood of many other designers for Fall 2009 — "quietly seductive," as Cathy Horyn described them. "Almost the work of a local dressmaker. That’s not a criticism."  Another first for the designer: knitwear, embossed like crocodile, above a skirt or over leggings. The venue was warm, causing guests to fan themselves with programs and invites, but these are just the type of dresses that buyers are looking for come Fall, so a little discomfort was surely worth it.
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>> Amongst significantly less hubbub — no Net-a-Porter selling his clothes right off the runway this time — Roland Mouret debuted his second collection yesterday under his new RM by Roland Mouret moniker.  The new set of dresses are definitely cut from the Mouret cloth — sheaths tailored with precision, oragami shapes — but for a man who's been using the same silhouettes since 2005, it's time to grow the aesthetic, not stand still in time.

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