>> The rain is beastly today, but that didn't keep Trish Goff or Alexa Chung — who arrived with her hair soaked — from the front row; Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi's baby, too, had a front row seat atop a minder's lap. Anna Selezneva opened the '90s grunge-inspired show, which featured dresses in holographic prints, lots of texture in both the fabric and ruffled panels curving around skirts and pieced onto dresses, and a finale full of highlighter pink. Cut-out wedge sandals finished off every look. Now, the question becomes: who's going to dare to wear the metallic silver Barberella-esque bustier dress?
Preen
Preen Goes In With '90s Grunge, Comes Out with Neon Pink for Spring 2010
Alexander Wang, Gareth Pugh, and More Are Scooping Up Chance to Show at MAC and Milk's Free New York Fashion Week Venue
>> Soon after Maybelline announced it would be be taking over from five-year Bryant Park cosmetics sponsor MAC, MAC — presumedly, as New York Times' Eric Wilson put it, tired of having to share "a rather circuslike stage with other sponsors who were competing for attention, sometimes including makers of doughnuts, cameras, toilets and Big Macs" — announced that it would be producing the tentatively-titled MAC and Milk Fashion Week with Milk Studios at the same time as the traditional New York Fashion Week.
The event can be seen as either a complement or a competitor to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, but on the record, anyway, there seem to be no hard feelings. Milk Studios founder Mazdack Rassi says of the initiative: "This week is not an alternative show space, it's a way of cultivating designers and helping them come up with new ways of selling their clothes." And Zach Eichman, a VP of IMG Fashion, which produces the shows at Bryant Park, told the New York Times last week the company welcomed the MAC and Milk event and that bus service between shows would be available when possible. “We can’t do every show in the tents. We hope they will be successful.”
Preen Doesn't Mess With Success for Cruise 2010
>> Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi found a hit with their Preen "Power" bandage dress and siphoned that success into this year's diffusion line Preen Line — which has been doing so well the designers are said to be mulling a separate runway show for it at the upcoming London Fashion Week. The same line of thought — reworking what already works — is how they approached their Cruise 2010 collection — hence their trademark bandage minidresses, cutouts, and shimmery fabrics from past seasons made new with a little texture.
Fall 2009: Not Just for 15-Year-Old Models
>> New York Fashion Week is known as the springboard for new faces every season, but for Fall 2009, it's become the springboard for comebacks — especially with models right around the 30-year-old mark. This morning, Frankie Rayder (34), who hasn't hit a catwalk since the Fall 2004 with the exception of Spring 2009 Givenchy, walked Michael Kors. The runways of Preen, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, and Marc Jacobs have been especially overrun with these mainly late-'90s, early-00's faces — from those who have hovered in and out the past few seasons: Anne Catherine Lacroix (29), Natasa Vojnovic (29), Caroline Ribeiro (29), Jamie Bochert (28), Christina Kruse (34), Carmen Kass (30), Colette Pechekhonova (28), Hannelore Knuts (31); to those who have exited the runway for a while — Tasha Tilberg (29), Kirsten Owen (38), Trish Goff (32) — all are booking some of the most coveted spots this season. Kors, Behnaz Sarafpour, Staerk, VPL, and Diane von Furstenberg are feeling it too — the mature woman is back in New York.
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Preen Fall 2009 Stars a Chubby, Two More Comeback Models
>> There was an "icon revival" casting call this season, and so far, Trish Goff, Tasha Tilberg, Natasa Vojnovic, Christina Kruse, and Hannelore Knuts have all been circulating the runways; joining a couple of the aforementioned this morning at Preen: 38-year-old '90s androgynous icon Kirsten Owen and early-'00s Belgian face Anne Catherine Lacroix — who else will show up next?
Also making appearances at Preen — Kanye West, who was a no-show for his front row seat at United Bamboo yesterday morning, Anne Christensen's kids, who played with the clear plastic covering the runway before the show, and Sir Philip Green, who raised eyebrows yesterday at Alexander Wang and is in town for the big Topshop press conference tomorrow morning.
In addition to their stellar standby cut-out minidresses and pleated pants, Justin Thorton and Thea Bregazzi did some experimenting for Fall 2009 — a big, bold, houndstooth print appeared more than a couple of times, and there was a surprising set of candy-colored rainbow dresses toward the end. Pronounced shoulders, random patches of fur on jackets, bold metallics, and cut-out leggings emerged here in addition to other runways — those and structured, uneven hems — see Karlie Kloss's miniskirt; trends in the making? And for the showstopper: a seriously chubby pastel fur chubby, worn by Anja Rubik.
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A Few Thoughts About Alexander Wang Fall 2009
>> The line to get into the Roseland Ballroom, where Alexander Wang showed his Fall 2009 collection, went down the entire block and around the corner — it stayed this way for a good half an hour or so after the show was scheduled to start . . . This season brought in the attendance of Alex's first big celebrity front row — Sarah Jessica Parker; also in attendance were Diane von Furstenberg, Patrick Robinson, and Philip Green of Topshop, the latter sparking some questions. Green said Anna Wintour had just suggested that he come check the show out . . . Wang's obsession with Hooters continues — they provided the backstage catering . . . Alex wrote a sign backstage for the models promising "tequila shots for those who don't fall!!!" . . . Fur was worked into his collection for the first time . . . Anna Wintour brought Bee Shaffer along for the first time (lots of firsts); usually she just comes to Proenza Schouler and Marc Jacobs. Does that mean Alex has moved up into Proenza and Marc territory in Anna's eyes? . . . Among the model cast were a few '90s and early '00s faces — Trish Goff (who's also supposed to walk Preen tomorrow), Tasha Tilberg, Natasa Vojnovic, Christina Kruse, and Hannelore Knuts — runway comebacks in the works?
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Preen: Pregnant with Pretty for Spring 2009
>> It's hard to imagine being pregnant and designing hot little minidresses for other women to wear, but when you're Thea Bregazzi, one half of design duo Preen, and those hot little minidresses happen to be what your label is known for, that's just what you do.
The heavily expectant Thea stayed across the pond in London while her partner in design and life, Justin Thornton, carried on with the label's show today. He carried it well — everything went smoothly, save a slight wardrobe malfunction for Anja Rubik and the confusion that ensued at the end of the show, when Justin didn't appear at the end of the runway and no one knew when to start the final applause.
As for the clothes, the dresses with intricate paneled cutouts and peekaboo zipper slats, the piquante shots of tomato red, and the sexily laced up pleated skinny pants came together for a more refined collection than we have seen from Preen in the last couple of seasons. Maybe Thea should be pregnant more often . . .
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>> INSIDER WIRE — Designers like Rogan Gregory for Rogan and Miguel Adrover for Hess Natur have long since embraced going green, and now the creatives behind Rodarte, Alexander Wang, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Preen are getting in on the fun. For the upcoming Fashion Week, the latter four burgeoning talents have pledged to serve tap water instead of bottled water backstage at their shows, eliminate fur in their collections, print all invitations and programs on post-consumer recycled paper, and serve organic, locally-sourced food backstage, provided by their partner Aveda. [FWD]
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Pamela Love Is Clawing Her Way to the Top
»On the rise: Pamela Love, whose claw bracelets appeared in the Fall 2008 Gap ads, and who is collaborating with Marchesa for Spring 2009 [The Cut]
»Does Jane Mayle already have placement at another, larger label? [The Pipeline]
»Preen, Roksanda Illincic, Marios Schwab on their Spring 2009 inspiration [Dazed Digital]
»Diane Pernet is launching a touring fashion film festival [FWD]
»Siri Tollerod stars in a really over-the-top Harajuku Lovers commercial [Fashionista]
»Julia Stegner has moved from Women to IMG [Chic Report]
»New York Models Show Package [Of the Minute]
»Alison Lewis, formerly of Mooka Kinney, to launch solo line [The Pipeline]
Kate Moss Gets In a Little Boss Time in Ibiza
»Kate Moss spent yesterday hanging out in Ibiza with Sir Philip Green and his daughter Chloe [PopSugar]
»Gisele Bundchen is making a one-of-a-kind calendar of herself for Tom Brady's birthday [OK! Magazine]
»A "major plan by a very directional client" is being built around Toni Garrn [TI]
»Bee Shaffer celebrated her 21st birthday dinner last night at Morandi [FWD]
»Sean Avery is now dating Calvin Klein's ex-wife, Kelly Klein [Page Six]
»The Preen show at New York Fashion Week will be minus Thea Bregazzi, who is staying London to have her and fellow Preen designer-cum-partner Justin Thornton's baby [Style File]
»Despite rumors to the contrary, Andre Leon Talley does not dress Michelle Obama [Style File]
»Taylor Momsen, Miu Miu campaign girl in the making? [Fashionista]
»Sass & Bide have pulled out of New Fashion Week [FWD]
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