>> Phoebe Philo introduced her first collection at Celine — for Cruise 2010 — yesterday, and it was all secrecy: no pictures were allowed at the preview.  Philo, dressed in olive fatigues, a black leather jacket and a putty silk blouse, Cathy Horyn reports, chatted with guests in the large raw space where her designs were being on racks with informal modeling: "It was a smart way to introduce the collection — the isolated debut rather than the big Paris blowout."

Style.com deemed the collection "spot-on" yesterday, and today, more outlets have had a chance to weigh in.  From Vogue: "Was it any good? Oh, yeah, and then some . . . It’s what Philo did so well at Chloé — a look that’s just cool, plain and simple, and which every girl is going to go crazy for."  WWD was less forthcoming with an opinion, but still seemed to approve: "Gone are the girly frills and eyelets in favor of a smart, far more austere and grown-up look rooted in classics."

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>> INSIDER WIRE —First it was Fall 2009, then Spring 2010, and now it's being reported that Resort 2010 will be Phoebe Philo's first collection for Celine.  Meanwhile, the house's Fall 2009 collection, done by an in-house design team, will be presented to editors next week. [FWD]

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>> INSIDER WIRE —Phoebe Philo's first designs for Celine will be unveiled in June for the pre-Spring and cruise seasons — she's focusing on "investment pieces" for her first outing — "part of it [will be] based on iconic pieces." Ignoring rumors that she was already clashing with management, causing her first runway show to be pushed back from March to October, Phoebe says she deliberately decided to sit out next month, as a way to “give the brand a bit of a break” and not succumb to fashion’s “fast and furious” pace. [WWD]

>> INSIDER WIRE —Originally, Phoebe Philo was supposed to unveil her first Celine collection in March, but among rumors of clashes with the label's new CEO, Marco Gobbetti, he confirmed that her first collection will be for the Spring 2010 season this Fall, with the studio doing any interim collections: "This is not about a trend or a runway, but building the foundation of the wardrobe of Phoebe for Celine." [WWD]

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>> Phoebe Philo's return to fashion is highly anticipated, to say the least — Vogue already booked an editorial exclusive to feature her first Celine collection in their March 2009 issue — but it may not happen as planned.  It's rumored that Phoebe is clashing with LVMH management — specifically Celine's new CEO, Marco Gobbetti, who moved over to the brand at the same time as the designer.   

The original plan was to have Philo unveil her Fall 2009 collection during a presentation in Paris this March, followed by her runway debut in October, but now, the March presentation appears to be in question.  According to a spokesperson, "Phoebe's debut show will be in October, as has always been planned and we are as excited as ever for Celine's partnership with Phoebe Philo."  And as for the March collection, according to a "reliable industry source," a "team" is at work on the designs.
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>> The much-missed Phoebe Philo is finally back in a big way — this time, she's taking the reins at Celine. Her new appointment has been rumored for some time now, but now it's officially official.

Phoebe is widely credited for putting Chloe into the big leagues, and the hopes are the same for her at Celine — "full creative renewal of the product." She starts her new post in October and will present her first Celine collection next March for Fall 2009, but her runway debut won't be until the Spring 2010 season.

Before settling on Celine, Phoebe is said to have put out feelers about launching a signature fashion house, but potential backers were reluctant, especially due to hefty salary and other demands, and no deal was made. Hopefully Celine turns out to be the right placement for her, in these revolving door times.
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>> MODA OPERANDI —Phoebe Philo may finally be ready to come back into the designer spotlight.  The former Chloe creative director, who has laid low since resigning from the French label in 2005, is reportedly in talks with Celine.  An announcement could come as early as September, with Phoebe's first Celine collection bowing in March 2009. [WWD]

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>>  Introducing a first look at Hannah MacGibbon for Chloe. This is new creative director's first collection for the brand since she succeeded Paolo Melim Andersson a week after he debuted his Fall 2008 Chloe collection.  As you'll remember, Hannah worked closely with Pheobe Philo from 2001 to 2006 when she helmed Chloe, and the Philo influence is definitely palpable in the color palette, the filmy loose blouses, the city shorts.

I'm a little disappointed with this collection — too much Gap likeness, not enough wow factor.  But I'll reserve judgment for the Spring 2009 collection.  A couple more looks available here.

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