fashionologie

Watch Raquel Zimmerman in Nina Ricci's Dreamy Spring 2012 Video

fashionologie — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 12:26:15 PST

>> Who better captures the spirit of Peter Copping's darkly romantic, pastel-tinted vision than Raquel Zimmerman - especially as lensed by Inez & Vinoodh? Set in an old manse in Westbury, Long Island, the resulting minifilm for Nina Ricci Spring 2012 is lovely and ethereal - with just enough camera-shake, slow motion, and subversive wind-blowing to keep things interesting.

Nina Ricci Fall 2012

fashionologie — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 16:28:30 PST

>> "It's about nonchalance and comfort," Peter Copping said of the dreamy '50s-tinged collection he presented today for Nina Ricci Fall 2012. The designer was inspired by the idea of a little girl playing dress-up, and so there was a haphazard glamour to the offering - party dresses and fur collars hung irreverently off the models' frames, sleeves were cut ultralong, and silhouettes were girlishly A-line, or just a tad oversize. Lace, tulle, embroidery, and ruffles provided a sense of naive charm, but the sultry palette of sheer black, garnet, blush, and cream was all lady.

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Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace, and More React to Kate Middleton's Wedding Dress

fashionologie — Fri, 29 Apr 2011 05:45:54 PDT

>> Vera Wang was on CNN this morning, weighing in who she hoped designed Kate Middleton's dress; but, now that it's been revealed to be Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton, how do Burton's other designing colleagues rate the dress? (And one can't help but wonder what Alexander McQueen would have thought of a partnership between his label and Middleton, given that he once famously wrote "I am a c*nt" in the lining of a jacket destined for Prince Charles.) But without further ado . . .

Karl Lagerfeld: “[Middleton] is very elegant. The dress is classic and goes very well in the Westminster decor. It almost reminds me of (Queen) Elizabeth’s wedding, the royal weddings in the '50s. The proportion of the train is good. The lace is very pretty. I like the veil a lot.”

Christian Lacroix: “I like the dress very much, simpler than expected: A combination just in between 1956 Grace Kelly and 1947 Queen Elizabeth dress. I love the modest veil with the Queen Mother’s '30s scroll tiara and balanced volume of the whole gown. She’s radiant; she never was so beautiful. And Prince William’s red Irish uniform is gorgeous.”

Hubert de Givenchy: “The dress is very simple and very nice. The veil is a little flat, but because she has such a lovely face, she can afford to wear it this way. She is very pretty.”

Peter Copping of Nina Ricci: “Very much in a royal tradition, reminiscent of Queen Elizabeth’s - and a little bit Grace Kelly. She looks happy, radiant, and natural.”

Donatella Versace: "Kate's dress was beautiful. She looked very regal."

Prabal Gurung: “I thought it was pretty and appropriate. A high-profile wedding like this is not the place for making a crazy fashion moment. It sounds like an oxymoron but it was a personal moment in a very public place. The dress clearly said she’s a modern girl and of this generation. It was not McQueen at its theatrical sense but McQueen in its quiet but beautiful sense. I loved the bustle and how her silk tulle veil was moving softly in the wind.”

Jason Wu: “I thought Catherine’s dress looked stunning. The details were very well done and I loved the emphasis on craftsmanship and the use of British talent. Her choice to pay tribute to Alexander McQueen was both touching and exciting.”

Viktor & Rolf: “Kate’s dress was simply elegant. Her hair down was a beautiful and natural touch, and the tiara was stunning. She looked as at ease as humanly possible and was radiant. Our compliments.”

Diane von Furstenberg: “The dress was beautiful. I think she is irresistible, she is so beautiful. I am happy it was McQueen. It was absolutely the right thing to do. They made [the dress] simple, so it wasn’t costumey but a beautiful evening gown. I was happy for Sarah, happy for the Met, and happy for McQueen."

Tory Burch: “Kate looked stunning. Choosing Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen reflects Kate’s modern aesthetic and style, but the handmade lace details and craftsmanship are a great nod to British tradition. The lace, the clean lines of the dress, Queen Elizabeth’s tiara - every detail was stunning.”

Donna Karan: “The dress was extremely elegant. For me, it wasn’t so much about the dress though, it was all about her. She was the most beautiful bride in the world.”

Francisco Costa: “Kate’s dress had a classic elegance with a modern edge. The superb detailing really characterized Sarah’s expert hand.”

Oscar de la Renta: “She looked absolutely ravishing. She looked like a bride should look and she handled herself tremendously. And they look like a much loving couple. I am happy to see fresh blood coming into the family. It was a very traditional, beautiful dress which it needed to be for that kind of wedding. Most of all she devastated with her charm. Listen, she will wear anything and will look ravishing.”

Valentino: “I loved the dress . . . it was very simple and young even if a hint of Grace Kelly's dress spoke of 1950s! I loved the flounce on the back of the skirt and the little decoration all around the short veil. I loved the choice of the tiara: simple, pretty, very right for the dress and for her attitude . . . it was used almost as an hairpiece to keep the hair and the veil, not as a heavy decoration. Compared to the famous Diana’s dress, Diana’s was a dress of a fairy-tale princess . . . still a dress everybody remembers. Kate’s one is a very pretty, modern dress that will be copied everywhere but lacks that fairy-tale element. Today most of the new princesses are young, modern, nonroyal women who have clear ideas, independence from stiff protocol . . . they want to be themselves and not anymore a symbol of the crown.”

Reed Krakoff: “I thought the dress was very modern. It bridged the gap between modern and youthful, and was respectful to the position she is in. It didn’t look to traditional or expected though. I particularly liked the neckline. It was more youthful than I expected. The fact that the bodice was fitted and formfitting was great, because she is a beautiful young woman and it accentuated that.”

A Trio of First Ever Print Ads, Including Alexander Wang's; Plus, The Full Spring 2011 Versace Set

fashionologie — Wed, 19 Jan 2011 08:45:17 PST

>> A trio of first campaigns have popped up for Spring 2011: Shu Pei Qin's premiere ad as a Maybelline model; Peter Copping's first ever Nina Ricci ad image, featuring Malgosia Bela shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin at New York's Greenwich Hotel ("She looks contemporary, modern, sensual - all those things I see for the Ricci woman,” Copping explained); and Alexander Wang's first ever print ad, featuring Aymeline Valade shot by Craig McDean. Although Wang doesn't like his four images, styled by his show stylist Karl Templer and creative directed by Fabien Baron, to be called a campaign. “We restrained from using those words, because you set yourself up for doing things in a systematic way - like rolling out ads in the magazines certain times of the year,” said the designer, who instead uses the term “image piece.” All those - and for good measure, the full Spring 2011 Versace campaign, featuring Abbey Lee Kershaw by Mario Testino - in the gallery.

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Peter Copping Drops More Nina Ricci Spring 2011 Campaign Hints, Is Anti-Live Streaming

fashionologie — Fri, 12 Nov 2010 10:00:28 PST

>> Peter Copping was on set for his first Nina Ricci campaign yesterday - shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, styled by Alex White, at the spa of New York's Greenwich Hotel - but he wouldn't disclose who the model was, other than to say she is older and was not on his Spring 2011 runway.

He was more open with his feelings on other subjects, however. While he's in charge, Nina Ricci won't be live streaming its runway show: “I’ve never been into it. It appeals much more to the big brands. Their goal is to reach a huge amount of people. I don’t think it ever seems appropriate for Nina Ricci, because it goes beyond that sense of intimacy that I want to create for the house.”

And he doesn't like for his collection to be called "pretty," he says. “When people write that, I always think . . . I don’t know. I like it when people read something more into [the collection].”

Copping recently mentioned wanting to foray into bridal and lingerie soon, and he also won't rule out a secondary collection. It could happen - Nina Ricci is currently one of the fastest growing designer ready-to-wear businesses at Barneys.

Peter Copping to Shoot First Nina Ricci Campaign Next Week, Hopes to Do Bridal and Lingerie Soon

fashionologie — Fri, 05 Nov 2010 14:12:40 PDT

>> Peter Copping is in New York next week for a Nina Ricci trunk show at Barneys, but he's also going to be shooting his first campaign for the brand while in town - presumably for Spring 2011 - with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

What else does Copping have up his sleeve for Nina Ricci? He said he hopes to expand into bridal and lingerie soon and would be interested in collaborating with H&M. But most of all, he's just focusing on building the brand. Copping designed for Louis Vuitton for 12 years under Marc Jacobs, who he describes as "incredibly precise." He added: "If there is one criticism I would make of that time, it's that we jumped around a little too much. At Nina Ricci, I want to be more consistent and true to the image of the house."

That said, he doesn't refer to the Nina Ricci archives at all. "Unlike at a house like Dior, Nina Ricci doesn't really have many iconic pieces. It's more about a romantic, feminine spirit."

Video Sneak Peeks from Sundance's The Day Before, Featuring Donatella Versace, Alexander Wang, and Diane von Furstenberg

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 05:49:41 PDT

>> The second season of The Day Before, Loic Prigent's documentary series which follows six designers - Diane von Furstenberg, Donatella Versace, Alexander Wang, Narciso Rodriguez, Nina Ricci's Peter Copping, and Jeremy Scott - in the 36 hours leading up to their Fall 2010 show, premieres tomorrow night, Sept. 8, on the Sundance Channel at 10 pm EST with von Furstenberg, with one episode airing each night after that through Sept. 13.

Prigent is known for receiving unprecedented access into designers' inner sanctums - he captures von Furstenberg practicing yoga as she fits models, Wang in the midst of a "chiffon crisis," Narciso Rodriguez leaving his studio in a panic two hours before his show with two key looks unfinished, and Copping staging his first ever show for Nina Ricci. Clips from the episodes, below.

The clips! »

fashionologie — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:17:09 PDT

>> Second Season of Loic Prigent's The Day Before Confirmed for September -Documentarian Loic Prigent captured Sonia Rykiel, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, and Jean Paul Gaultier in the 36 hours leading up to their respective shows for the premiere season of the Sundance Channel's series The Day Before. As reported, he's back for a second round, having followed Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Jeremy Scott, Narciso Rodriguez, Peter Copping at Nina Ricci, and Donatella Versace at Versace during the Fall 2010 season. The new season premieres Wednesday, Sept. 8 at 10 PM. Prigent noted, “We explored the energy of New York with young labels like Alexander Wang, grandes dames like Diane von Furstenberg, energy and humor with Jeremy Scott, and couturelike precision with Narciso Rodriguez. In Paris, you see the sweetness and romanticism of Nina Ricci, and the extreme everything of Donatella Versace in Milan. All those houses are very different, which has made it such a crazy experience.” [Full Frontal Fashion]

Fashion in 50 Seconds 03/05/10 Phoebe Philo Turns Cover Girl, Tom Ford Hiring Womenswear Team

coutorture — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 08:25:31 PST

Phoebe Philo turns cover girl for the launch issue of The Gentlewoman, a sister title to Fantastic Man. David Sims photographed Philo in a mix of vintage and current Celine.

Urban Outfitters is launching a bridal collection.

Tom Ford's womenswear collection is closer to becoming reality as the designer quietly builds his design team.

Karlie, Abbey, and Constance land the cover of Anja Rubik's 25 magazine.

The Armani dress Lady Gaga wore to the Grammy's is on display at the Fifth Avenue Giorgio Armani store in New York.

Peter Copping's fall 2010 collection begs the question, "Who exactly is the Nina Ricci woman?"

Loic Prigent Is Back, Documenting Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Narciso Rodriguez, and Jeremy Scott

fashionologie — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 08:43:51 PST

>> The Sundance Channel is on a mission to amp up their fashion coverage. They just launched Catwalk Countdown, a series of ten one-minute online videos highlighting designers like Erin Fetherston, Vena Cava, Lyn Devon, Chris Benz - Benz talks how he produces 98 percent of his collection within a two-block radius of his Manhattan studio, for instance - and now they're bringing back popular fashion documentarist Loic Prigent for a second season of his The Day Before series.

Prigent, who captured the likes of Sonia Rykiel, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, and Jean Paul Gaultier for the show's first season, is currently in New York, where he will film Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Narciso Rodriguez, and Jeremy Scott each in the 36 hours leading up to their shows. Prigent has been granted "full access," he told The Cut, "[because] we are discreet . . . [so designers] forget we are even there."

Who do they hope to film in London and Paris? »