fashionologie

Pheobe Philo's First Celine Runway Collection for Spring 2010: The Reviews Are In

fashionologie — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 13:35:59 -0700

>> For her first runway show since leaving Chloe in 2006 to focus on motherhood, Phoebe Philo sent out a fast-marching group of models swaddled in earth tones, clunky wood wedges, modified trenches, military details, lots of leather, and curiously few handbags, despite Celine's accessory-brand heritage. Bound inspiration books from Philo, containing photos of Kurt Cobain, disco balls, and work by David Sims and Helmut Newton were placed on every seat.

The mood of the collection, one of the season's most anticipated, Philo described as “purposeful and positive.” Backstage, while holding her five-year-old daughter, Maya, who attended the show with Philo's husband, she went on: "I wanted to clean it up, refocus, and present a strong, powerful woman." And of all the expectation: "It's just the beginning. It felt like, just take it easy, just start easy. It's nice to have the bubble of expectations burst. That feels good. Sometimes what people get into their head is unachievable."

In the front row were top photographers David Sims, Mario Testino, Craig McDean; Pucci designer Peter Dundas, who called the collection "wonderful"; and top LVMH brass, including Bernard Arnault, who stood to applaud Philo afterward. As Suzy Menkes put it, "This was an important exercise in making Celine fashion credible. And that was mission accomplished."

Dundas Continues to Look Past House Prints at Emilio Pucci for Cruise 2010

fashionologie — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 18:04:09 -0700

>> Peter Dundas's debut Fall 2009 collection at Pucci was generally well-received - Carine Roitfeld and Lily Cole both ended up wearing dresses from the collection on the Cannes Film Festival red carpet - and notably took the house beyond its print heritage; the Cruise 2010 collection looks to do the same. Dundas said he was inspired by the sea, sailors, and the sun; Perhaps we owe the influence to a recent scuba diving excursion? Dundas told Style.com that his motto is: "I dive where I go on holiday, and I go on holiday where I can dive," and that "diving definitely makes me look at color differently."

fashionologie — Fri, 22 May 2009 10:19:27 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Peter Dundas has only done one collection, for Fall 2009, in his new post at Emilio Pucci, but so far, so good - his work is already being embraced for the red carpet by fashion insiders. Lily Cole and Carine Roitfeld both wore Pucci at yesterday's amfAR gala - Lily's dress from the Fall 2009 collection, Carine's custom-made - which Dundas also attended, and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld has heels from the Fall 2009 collection already on display in her apartment. [Grazia]

Dundas's Debut Fall 2009 Pucci Collection Minimizes Prints

fashionologie — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:51:07 -0800

>> Matthew Williamson's gone from Pucci, and he seems to have taken the brand's bright, kaleidoscopic prints with him. Peter Dundas is in the house, and his interpretation of the Pucci heritage for Fall 2009 involves darker, moodier colors with a rock and roll vibe; the slit-up-to-there strapless gowns and super-minidresses are drawing Balmain comparisons from a number of sources. But critics - although some are unsure about the lack of prints - seem ready to give Dundas a chance: management did want a new, modern image, after all. WWD encouraged Dundas's movement beyond the print heritage: "The fact is that [Pucci] has to." The Moment agreed that the collection felt "relevent to the times and the house," as did Cathy Horyn: " If Dundas can develop 'the product,' as retailers say, he may just have something at Pucci."
*image: source

ACE Awards Go Green for Stella McCartney

fashionologie — Tue, 04 Nov 2008 12:30:47 -0800

>> At last night's annual Accessories Council ACE Awards, Nicholas Ghesquiere may have been awarded Designer of the Year, Sally Singer the Marylou Luther Award for Fashion Journalism, and Tamara Mellon's Jimmy Choo the Brand of the Year, but Stella McCartney was awarded the most special treatment.

The designer, who was flanked by Helena Christensen, Coco Rocha, and Dean Koons and anointed with a new award, Green Designer of the Year, had her table completely set with salads while everyone else had "a decadent lobster plate." And out of respect for her vegan views, even her award - a Judith Leiber miaundiere - was made green, with a black hemp lining in leather's stead and no stainless steel plating. Such attention to detail kept Stella in a high mood - she joked as she accepted her award, "Little did I know that my award would be second to last and I would need to use the ladies' room after putting on my unitard outfit. But that's life!"
*image: source, source

fashionologie — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 16:37:35 -0700

>> MODA OPERANDI -Although he shushed rumors last month, Peter Dundas - formerly of Emanuel Ungaro and currently of furrier Revillon - will be taking Matthew Williamson's place at Emilio Pucci. Wiliamson's last collection for the house shows in Milan Sept. 25 - he is departing to focus more on his signature collection - and Dundas's first Pucci collection will show next February for Fall 2009. [WWD]

*image: source

fashionologie — Wed, 27 Aug 2008 11:35:27 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE —Talks of a replacement for Matthew Williamson at Pucci are under way, and the name which seems to be coming up is Peter Dundas. Dundas is currently "very happy" working at furrier Revillon after leaving Emanuel Ungaro last summer and would give no further comment to the rumors than that. [WWD]

*image: source