fashionologie

Video: Marc Jacobs Explains Where the Louis Vuitton Bunny Ears Came From

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 20:01:30 PDT

>> The video accompaniment to Louis Vuitton's Fall 2009 campaign has appeared on The Moment - it will be on louisvuitton.com next week - with Madonna, stylist Marie Amelie-Sauve, and makeup artist Pat McGrath all making appearances. Marc Jacobs, for his part, explains the deal with the bunny ears: "There's a girl who works for us, Lucy, she's on the design team, and Adrian, one of the boys, was tying a little bit of fabric around and it reminded me of bunny. We were thinking of all these different things like can-can dancers, and I saw this piece of fabric wrapped around Lucy's head and said, 'Bunny ears, that's what we need to finish this look.' So we made all these radzimir bunny ears and that's how it happened. I like the kind of Playboy, French coquette aspect to it."

The video! »

Jourdan Dunn, Luella Bartley Win Big at British Fashion Awards

fashionologie — Tue, 25 Nov 2008 14:48:52 PST

>> Tonight, The British Fashion Council hosted the British Fashion Awards - the British counterpart to the CFDA Awards. Jourdan Dunn stole Agyness Deyn's Model of the Year crown, and looking shocked, managed to accept the award between tears: "My mum would like me to say I'm going to buy her a mansion but she's just going to have to accept this speech instead!" As for Designer of the Year - an honor bestowed on John Galliano and Alexander McQueen four times each - Luella Bartley was the anointed one.

A complete list of awards, with winners in bold. »

Fall 2012 Beauty Preview -Straight From Milan Fashion Week

Christina Perez — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 13:01:12 PST

>> From angels to demons - the beauty looks at Milan Fashion Week had it all. And while it may be a bit too early to tell which trends will have real staying power, one thing's for sure: there is no shortage of beauty inspiration from which to draw.

At Jil Sander the style was fresh-faced and almost Spring-like: faces had a scrubbed-clean youthfulness, brightened only by a pop of sheer fuchsia on the lips. Dolce & Gabbana (left), too, went soft for Fall; the beauty - much like the collection - was inspired by religious iconography. Makeup artist Pat McGrath used neutral shades in creamy consistencies to "bring light into the face," and so skin was dewy, cheeks were rosy, and eyes were accentuated with just a dab of shimmering gold shadow at the inside corner.

At Roberto Cavalli the look was all about intensity. McGrath focused on eyes, creating a winged look in a trio of iridescent shades, "almost like an insect - a beetle - or a peacock." But perhaps most dramatic of all was the look at Versace. The models appeared to be straight out of The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo - complete with Rooney Mara bangs and pale skin. Eyes were rimmed with layer upon layer of kohl.

Those - plus more from Fendi, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Alberta Ferretti, and more - right here in our Milan Fashion Week beauty roundup.

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A Christian Dior Show Without John Galliano - Sans Drama, "Funereal" Instead

fashionologie — Fri, 04 Mar 2011 10:28:00 PST

>> Typically, Cathy Horyn writes, "a Dior show would be an occasion for a mob scene at the front gates, celebrities filling front-row seats, and the arrival of Bernard Arnault." But today, not so: there were no big name celebrities (just Anna Wintour, Emmanuelle Alt, Mario Testino, and Natalia Vodianova instead); there was no Arnault - "owing to the tug of other business obligations," WWD reports - and the mob scene outside was bigger than usual: "I would say more than 300 people were there, along with extra French police officers," Horyn noted. Security was up in all regards - guest invitations were checked multiple times on the way in, and photographers weren't allowed backstage or front row access.

There was no lack in attendance, however: Dior's PR described the demand for invitations as "overwhelming." But the mood at the show "was sombre and muted, with more than one guest suggesting the atmosphere was 'funereal,'" Hilary Alexander reports, "something heightened by the black ribbons which tied the name tags to each attendees' black chair; the black carpet; and the plaintive strains of Chopin and Debussy which echoed through the tent, pre-show."

Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who is Jewish, took the runway at the start of the show to make his first public statements (full text here) since the scandal:

"What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal for us all. It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be.

"Such statements are intolerable because of our collective duty to never forget the Holocaust and its victims, and because of the respect for human dignity that is owed to each person and to all peoples.

"These statements have deeply shocked and saddened all at Dior who give body and soul to their work, and it is particularly painful that they came from someone so admired for his remarkable creative talent. So now, more than ever, we must publicly re-commit ourselves to the values of the House of Dior.

" . . . The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the value and the vision of Monsieur Dior. What you are going to see now is the result of the extraordinary, creative, and marvelous efforts of these loyal, hardworking people."

Dior face Karlie Kloss opened the show as usual, but with John Galliano gone, Suzy Menkes writes, "The creative partners who supported Mr. Galliano over the years hardly had a look in: the milliner Stephen Jones had only a sprinkling of sensible felt hats and the makeup artist Pat McGrath created none of her dramatis personae. No stage set created a dramatic backdrop. Gone too were the outré accessories. Just a cameo at the throat was the main embellishment, although there was the usual complement of frills, bows and feminine prettiness."

Arnault's daughter, Delphine, who is deputy managing director at Dior, apparently wiped away tears at the end of the show, when the entire 30-person Dior atelier team took the runway in white coats to a standing applause. And Joe Zee tweeted, "The end of the show was an immensely touching fashion moment for me."

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A Preview of W's September Issue - Edward Enninful and Lori Goldstein's First

fashionologie — Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:49:32 PDT

>> W's September 2011 issue - which marks Edward Enninful's first full issue as the magazine's fashion and style director and Lori Goldstein's as style editor-at-large - doesn't hit newsstands until Aug. 23, but we've got a preview of its innards. Goldstein works with Guinevere van Seenus on a colorful, jewelry-centric spread; Mario Sorrenti captures Sasha Pivovarova and Freja Beha Erichsen in a comic book-bright piece; and Edward Enninful transforms Kristen Stewart into a bombshell for the issue's cover.

Among the September issue's other highlights: Steven Klein photographs Amber Valletta evolving from 20 to 120 years old with the help of prosthetic makeup; Tim Blanks profiles Phoebe Philo; Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott snap a fetishistic spread - with Lara Stone, Joan Smalls, and Tao Okamoto - inspired by Helmut Newton and The Night Porter; and Enninful, Steven Meisel, and makeup artist Pat McGrath collaborate on "Transformers," featuring models turned into heroines from the past. Think Linda Evangelista as Zizi Jeanmaire, Karen Elson as Judy Garland, Raquel Zimmermann as Babe Paley, and Jessica Stam as Gala Dali.

Gallery is NSFW.

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Fashion's Night Out Will Bring Anna Wintour To Queens, Hamish Bowles To Juicy Couture, and the Olsens To Bartend at Barneys

fashionologie — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 15:58:47 PDT

>> The roster of events for Anna Wintour's international shopping extravaganza on Sept. 10, Fashion's Night Out, has been rolled out, and as Anna put it in the press release: “Little did I think when the idea of Fashion’s Night Out was first dreamed up this past March during the Paris collections that we would have over 700 and counting retailers, designers, and brands joining us on the night of September 10. There is so much planned that we could shop till dawn and still not see and do everything.”

Wintour kicks everything off, along with Michael Kors and "a surprise celebrity guest," at Macy's Queen Center location at 5 pm and will sign t-shirts for the first 50 customers. That event just so happens to be ten minutes away from a US Open tennis match Roger Federer will likely play that same day at 7 pm (and thus Anna will likely attend).

Meet Steven Klein or take a picture with Daria Werbowy »

Vogue Pays Tribute to Model Muses for May 2009

fashionologie — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 10:13:43 PDT

>> The wait is over. The May 2009 issue of Vogue, wholly dedicated to models in anticipation of this year's Model as Muse Costume Insitute Gala next month has debuted, and Liya Kebede, Natalia Vodianova, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, Isabeli Fontana, Lara Stone, Jourdan Dunn, Raquel Zimmermann, Caroline Trentini,and Natasha Poly all made the final cut, wearing what appears to be Rodarte. This cover, shot by Steven Meisel, is notable not only because of its subjects, but because it marks the third consecutive cover to feature a woman of color on the front.

Inside, Natalia Vodianova, who has been called "the Baby" by Steven Meisel and makeup artist Pat McGrath since they starting working with her, collaborated with them again on a tribute editorial to models past, from Twiggy to Dovima, similar to the one Gisele Bundchen did for Harper's Bazaar last month. The key to Natalia's chameleon act? "I looked at each woman's lips - they're all different."
*image: source, source, source

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August 2008 Proves Vogue Italia Is Still A Fan of Black Models

fashionologie — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 17:45:36 PDT

>> After all the hype the July 2008 issue of Vogue Italia garnered, questions arose as to whether the issue was a one-time publicity stunt or an actual attempt at industry change. When the August 2008 Vogue Italia cover dropped featuring five white models earlier this week, the questions were hardly silenced. But Franca Sozzani has decided to follow through with the August issue, giving July cover girl Jourdan Dunn an editorial, "The Now Ease," styled by Edward Enninful and photographed by Emma Summerton. I wonder if Pat McGrath did makeup? It would make an almighty trio: black model, stylist, and makeup artist.
*image: source

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live from lanvin

philleif — Mon, 05 May 2008 17:22:00 PDT

>> Olga Sherer has been deposed from the Lanvin throne after two seasons. The new blood? Raquel Zimmermann and Liya Kebede, who were shot by Steven Meisel in March at Smashbox Studios in LA.

As for the look: "Downtown smoky burlesque woman," according to Meisel. "Rich rather than dangerous." Edward Enninful was on-hand styling, and Pat McGrath on makeup duty. The prototype images feature Liya, wearing a black strapless gown with ruffles down the front, and Raquel in a plum-colored dress that ties around the neck, both on a dark city street. The New Yorker writer who was on-set at the shoot says of the preliminary shots:

[Liya and Raquel] looked kinetic, caught in mid-motion, as if they were about to hail a cab. Behind the pair were the blurry lights of New York in the rain.

Lanvin ads never seem to disappoint, so I can't wait to see what these look like.

*image: source

master of all that is makeup

philleif — Fri, 16 Mar 2007 01:11:00 PDT

>> This video is not super up-to-date, but Pat McGrath's genius is always there, no matter what season it is. I just wanted to give you a glimpse into the life of the woman responsible for all the runway makeup triumphs and creativities (especially at Dior).