fashionologie

Rochas Fall 2012

fashionologie — Wed, 29 Feb 2012 13:14:11 PST

>> Watery grid prints, shiny jacquards, and a dusky autumnal palette took center stage in Marco Zanini's Fall 2012 offering for Rochas. Silhouettes were buttoned-up, vaguely '60s, and tinged with a bit of librarian quirk - think twee ankle pants, double-breasted coats, printed tights, and Iris Apfel-esque glasses. Bouclé knits and a bit of fur added texture - and kept it all feeling luxe.

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Theyskens' Theory Fall 2012

Christina Perez — Mon, 13 Feb 2012 18:35:09 PST

>> Olivier Theyskens has hit his stride at Theory. For Fall 2012, the designer worked just the right bit of darkness into the label's signature streamlined silhouettes. Whisper-sheer, trumpet-shaped skirts floated ethereally beneath sharp-cut blazers; and slouchy, wide-legged trousers paired effortlessly with leather, brocade, and knit. But best of all were the designer's signature gowns, which looked understated - and totally stunning - in sparkling sheers, structured taffetas, and printed silks.

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Theyskens' Theory Pre-Fall 2012

fashionologie — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 10:20:45 PST

>> For his Pre-Fall 2012 Theyskens' Theory collection, Olivier Theyskens mixed sequined sheer gowns and patchwork fox and rabbit pieces while still filling the need for what he termed "the coolest rock 'n' roll T-shirt and the best jeans."

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Theory Spring 2012

fashionologie — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:00:28 PST

>> See Olivier Theysken's second Theory collection, for Spring 2012. The predominantly black and white offering boasts white satin blazers and airy black slipdresses, but also includes nautical sequined tanks and nubby cobalt short-sleeved sweaters.

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Theyskens' Theory Spring 2012

fashionologie — Tue, 13 Sep 2011 17:20:26 PDT

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Olivier Theyskens's First Theory Collection Is Hitting Stores

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Aug 2011 12:54:16 PDT

>> The first Theory collection that Olivier Theyskens had a hand in designing is just rolling into stores, and both parties involved - Theory founder Andrew Rosen and Theyskens - continue to seem pleased with the partnership. Rosen told the New York Times in an article published over the weekend that he didn't want to put constraints on Theyskens's design process, but that he did want him to know how the clothes were selling: “We want Olivier to understand that a lot of what he’s doing is working but some things aren’t." And Theyskens seems to be enjoying that type of information - apparently, his debut Theyskens' Theory was bought nearly in its entirety. “It’s the first time ever,” he said, noting that when he designed ready-to-wear at Rochas or Nina Ricci, stores usually bought his extravagant dresses rather than the everyday basics.

See Malgosia Bela in the new Fall 2011 Theory campaign, plus a few of our favorite Fall 2011 Theory pieces that are now available, in the slideshow.

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Theyskens' Theory Resort 2012

fashionologie — Fri, 10 Jun 2011 14:56:09 PDT

>> “There’s a playfulness in mixing things up,” Olivier Theyskens said while introducing his Resort 2012 Theyskens' Theory collection, which continued the designer's study in slouch. Bias-cut dresses were covered in prints inspired by the work of painter James Ensor; blazers were given U-shaped cutaways and collar slits to give them the ease of a cardigan, Theyskens explained; and acid wash made an appearance on shorties and slouchy denim.

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Riccardo Tisci Reportedly Lobbying for Dior Job; Plus, the Other Designers on LVMH's Short List

fashionologie — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 12:08:17 PDT

>> LVMH is taking its time with the announcement of Dior's new designer, and it sounds like the decision still has yet to be made. At a recent shareholders' meeting, Bernard Arnault said the plan was to interview a number of candidates before making the call when "conviction" arrives.

But who's reportedly on the short list of candidates Bernard Arnault's advisors have submitted? Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Olivier Theyskens, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann, Prabal Gurung, and Sarah Burton. However, a source in Paris told WWD that LVMH is placing less importance on marquee names and focusing rather on “someone who understands Dior and fits the needs of the company.”

While Arnault, chairman of the board at Dior, is sure to get the final say on the appointee, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who has helmed the company since 1998, and Delphine Arnault (Bernard's daughter), deputing managing director at Dior and widely viewed as the eventual LVMH heir apparent, are also expected to weigh in. Apparently Dior execs are also receiving unsolicited designer suggestions from top editors and even shareholders.

Delphine, for her part, is seen as a champion of Riccardo Tisci; the Givenchy designer has reportedly been lobbying for the position as well, sketching out his vision for the brand. Bernard Arnault, meanwhile, is reportedly transfixed by royalty, and if Sarah Burton does dress Kate Middleton for her wedding at the end of the month (despite Burton's and the McQueen company's denials), she may pull ahead in the race. Arnault would be keen to launch the new Dior alongside the newly-married couple; Princess Diana, after all, helped catapult the brand's image in 1995 when she wore a Lady Dior bag and then in 1996 when she wore a midnight blue, bias-cut Dior gown by John Galliano to the Costume Institute Gala.

In the meantime, design duties are falling on Dior's in-house design studios, headed by Bill Gaytten, who has worked beside Galliano since the '80s. They're already creating the Cruise 2012 collection and have started in on the upcoming Fall 2011 couture collection, in preparation for its debut in July.

Galliano Aftermath - Fall 2011 Christian Dior Show to Go On; Plus, Early Replacement Speculation

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Mar 2011 08:40:54 PST

>> In the aftermath of John Galliano's dismissal, it is understood that Christian Dior plans to go ahead with its runway show on Friday. The Fall 2011 collection to be shown will be Galliano's last for Dior. Will the usual suspects be in attendance in light of the scandal? Time will tell.

And WSJ's Christina Binkley predicts via Twitter: "Don't expect the Galliano thing to end easily. French gov't will likely require a process, and there's the Galliano line to contend with." She's referring to the fate of Galliano's eponymous label - which, like Dior, is owned by LVMH. It also is expected to show as usual, but as for guest attendance, it sounds like even the label's own PR is unsure - they apparently sent out an email today asking attendees to confirm their presence. And will Kate Moss continue to have Galliano design her wedding dress?

For the conspiracy theorists, Fashionista reports: "We’re hearing rumors that the video was from October and released this week because Dior has wanted Galliano out for some time. It’s true, the timing of all this does seem suspect – the quickness with which Dior put Galliano on suspension, and the subsequent allegation that followed, capped by the release of video, the final nail in Galliano’s coffin. Word is Galliano’s alcoholism (he was often reported to be seen drunk at La Perle) and bigotry had been problems for some time." And Fashion Television's Jeanne Beker tweets: "I've seen Galliano rant and rave before. He really does need help. I love the guy (or thought I did) but am sickened by what's gone on."

So who will succeed Galliano? T's Horacio Silva tweets: "So John Galliano has been fired. Who's going to get the call - Riccardo Tisci or Alber Elbaz?" And the International Herald Tribune's Jessica Michault responds: "The safe bet is Riccardo Tisci." Other names that have been thrown around on Twitter are Olivier Theyskens, Hedi Slimane, and Haider Ackermann.

Theyskens's Theory Collection Is Now Available Online

Chi Diem Chau — Thu, 27 Jan 2011 12:04:49 PST

>> Olivier Theyskens's collection for Theory is now available online and ready for shopping. “The collection is for cool girls that like to wear clothes that are visionary, while still being right for today,” said Theyskens. “These clothes are what I would wear if I were a girl." Prices range from $70 to $980 and include sharp tailored pieces, like a leather blazer, and silk palazzo pants. Our favorite pieces from the collection in the slideshow.

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