fashionologie

Nicholas Kirkwood Spring 2012

fashionologie — Tue, 11 Oct 2011 09:02:45 PDT

>> Nicholas Kirkwood took off to Bali in August and came back inspired by the florals and tropical brights. “[It] was my first holiday since starting the business seven years ago,” he explained. “And I came back wanting to do something more colorful and a little softer than before.” Preview his Spring 2012 collection - including runway collaborations with Peter Pilotto, Roksanda Illincic, and Erdem, in the slideshow - all now available for preorder on Moda Operandi.

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19 Eye-Catching Spring 2012 Accessories You Didn't See on the Recent Runways

fashionologie — Mon, 10 Oct 2011 11:22:37 PDT

>> Curious what Christian Louboutin, Brian Atwood, Eddie Borgo, and Tom Binns showed in their Spring 2012 presentations during the recent Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks? We've got a peek at each - plus looks at Tabitha Simmons's latest collection - and more in the slideshow.

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Nicholas Kirkwood Goes Strappy With a Side of Glitter for Resort 2012

fashionologie — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 10:28:45 PDT

>> Nicolas Kirkwood's Resort 2012 collection is rife with riffs on snakeskin - the material caps the toe of a brogue, gets the metallic treatment on a chunky slingback sandal, cross-crosses on a tie-up flat, and weaves through a T-strap platform. Glitter fiends, meanwhile, will be sated on a sparkly, strappy rosette sandal, and neon nuts have a highlighter yellow and pink lace pump in the offering. The whole collection, in the slideshow, is now available for pre-order on Moda Operandi.

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Phoebe Philo, Lara Stone Take Top Prizes at 2010 British Fashion Awards

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Dec 2010 14:14:29 PST

>> Phoebe Philo took this year's top prize - Designer of the Year - tonight at the British Fashion Awards over fellow nominees Erdem Moralioglu and Christopher Kane, while Lara Stone won the battle of the pretty faces, scoring Model of the Year over David Gandy and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.

Popular vote determined Alexa Chung winner of the British Style Award, recognizing "an individual who embodies the spirit of London and is an international ambassador for London as a leading creative fashion capital.” And Sarah Burton - who designed two dresses for Special Recognition awardee Naomi Campbell (for a 25 year-long career) to choose from for the festivities - accepted the posthumously-awarded Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design prize for Lee Alexander McQueen, noting, "We will always miss him."

The full list of 2010 winners (nominees can be seen here):

Designer of the Year: Phoebe Philo for Celine

BFC Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design: Lee Alexander McQueen

Designer Brand of the Year: Mulberry

Accessory Designer of the Year: Nicholas Kirkwood

Menswear Designer of the Year: Patrick Grant for E.Tautz

Model of the Year: Lara Stone

Emerging Talent Award - Accessories: Husam El Odeh

Emerging Talent Award - Ready-to-Wear: Meadham Kirchhoff

Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator of the Year: Nicola Formichetti

British Style Award: Alexa Chung

Special Recognition Award: Naomi Campbell

Digital Innovation Award: Burberry

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Christopher Kane, Charlotte Olympia, Peter Pilotto Among 2011 BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund Nominees

fashionologie — Mon, 29 Nov 2010 12:57:25 PST

>> The second annual BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund shortlist was released late last week, and among the nominees this year: Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll, Jonathan Saunders, Charlotte Olympia, E. Tautz, Nicholas Kirkwood, Osman Yousefzada, and Peter Pilotto. The winner - last year, it was Erdem Moralioglu - takes £200,000 in prize money, whereas the runners-up are each assigned a mentor. Richard Nicoll and Christopher Kane are repeat nominees. [Vogue UK, Vogue UK]

Prabal Gurung Talks Collaborating With Zoe Saldana, Avoiding Marc Jacobs, and the Red Carpet Race

Chi Diem Chau — Fri, 05 Nov 2010 09:36:19 PDT

>> Prabal Gurung went dressed as Marc Jacobs - complete with tattoos, stubble, kilt, and combat boots - to The Standard's Halloween party this past weekend, but as Gurung told us yesterday in San Francisco where he was holding a trunk show at Neiman Marcus’s Union Square location, he avoided Jacobs seeing his costume: "So I was [at The Standard], and I met some of [Jacobs's] friends, and they said, 'Come meet Marc!' As I was taking my steps toward him, I thought, what if he hates it? I’ll be mortified, so I just said, 'No way.'" Gurung continued: "I was so petrified. I saw him the next day at the Women’s Wear Daily event, and I just tried to avoid him! I just didn’t know how he would react to it . . . I hope he liked it!"

So we had to ask: Zoe Saldana has mentioned that she would love to do a collaboration with you . . .

I can’t talk about it right now. I mean, I would love to. Zoe is one of my dearest friends; I’ve known her for almost eight years now, before Avatar or anything happened, and we’ve always talked about doing something. The collaboration we would do is going to be a collaboration that benefits something. Whatever little attention I’m getting, and whatever crazy attention she’s getting, when we combine forces, it has to be not just for economics; it has to be for something better - that’s our goal. She’s shooting right now, and I’m travelling, so we talk a lot. We’re supposed to talk on the phone today, so we’ll see. We’ll keep you posted.

So you guys are definitely talking about it?

Yeah, we are talking about it, but it’s not something like “Oh, we want to do shoes.” It’s more like, "How can we do something that seems authentic?” Because there are so many collaborations out there, and I think the customers are just inundated with that. What is it that is going to be true to me, true to her, true to you guys? Why would you want to buy it? It need to be honest, I feel. Right now, I would give you a direction of where it’s going, but there is nothing yet . . . we just don’t know yet.

Speaking of collaborations, you worked with Nicholas Kirkwood on shoes this past season. Do you plan to continue that or would you do your own accessories anytime soon?

Right now, we're going ahead with Nicholas for the next season also. [Spring 2011] was the first time we did it, and it’s been received so crazily, so amazingly well . . . so we both are very happy. Down the line, definitely - it won’t be like next season that I’m launching my own shoe collection - but definitely in the near future, I will be launching shoes and handbags.

Nice! Do you already have any sketches in the making?

If you knew a little bit about me, all this stuff, with Fall 2009 as my collection's launch . . . About 15 years ago, I had written in my diary - and I’m not kidding - that I wanted to do something then. So I’m a little bit of a planner - not like an OCD planner - but I just like to write down thoughts and ideas. I’m also very open to the idea that I might change them, but I always like to plan stuff.

While we're on the topic, are you interested in any other type of collaboration?

You know, with collaborations and everything, the goal is this: I’m not interested in just being a flash in the pan. I’m interested in the longevity of my career. For me, I’m at point A; I have to go to point Z. It’s a long process, but I’m extremely patient. I want to build a lifestyle brand that has longevity. In 20 years, when I look back, maybe in 20 years we can sit down and talk about it again. I’m not interested in trends, or being cool, or anything. It’s more about timeless but relevant clothes that have a place on the runway, in editorial magazines, as well as in someone’s wardrobe. I’m making clothes for women to wear, not costumes.

Awards season is just a couple of months away, are you looking into entering the red carpet race?

This is what I say: I never get into the red carpet race. We make ourselves available, and if an actress or stylist feels it is the right partnership, I’m always open to it, always. It is important for branding purposes to get your name out there, but what I don’t believe in is the cutthroat kind of thing. If it’s going to happen, it’ll happen. You just have to make yourself available, and that’s what it is.

Who are some of the actresses that come to you a lot?

I met Demi Moore through Rachel Zoe, and she has been the biggest supporter of mine. I always say she’s my fairy godmother, and then there's Zoe Saldana, Carey Mulligan, and Leighton Meester. We've always dressed Thandie Newton, who I love. All the women that I’ve dressed are very intelligent, smart women, beautiful - no doubt about it. But when you sit down and talk to them, they’re not giddy . . . they’ll talk sense to you. That’s what I enjoy about dressing them.

Is there anyone that you haven’t dressed that you would love to dress one day?

There are a few. I love Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton, Gwyneth Paltrow, Natalie Portman, Rebecca Hall, and Julianne Moore. The girls I’ve named have some kind of substance to them - they’re unique, they love fashion, but they’re also extremely talented and very good at their craft. Without fashion, they could still survive. I would also love to dress some politicians, and their wives.

Well you’ve already dressed a good one - Michelle Obama!

Yes, she’s been the biggest champion. She is truly a godsend.

Prabal Gurung Wanted to Make a Statement About Something Other Than "Vulgar Dresses" for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:26:26 PDT

>> Prabal Gurung says his Spring 2011 collection was inspired by Tilda Swinton’s role in I Am Love and dedicated to "the intelligent woman. The brain is her most important feature." He continued: “We’ve had a decade of tight skirts and vulgar dresses, and I wanted to make a statement about something different.” Hence the collection's predominant silhouette: a hemline five inches below the knee.

Gurung prides himself on his technicality, talking backstage about a skirt with side slits that took him a week to perfect and a sheath dress spliced with neoprene: “This is a pattern-maker’s nightmare. When you see the pattern all laid out it looks like a maze.” A few cocktail dresses with seam tape fringe came off a bit heavy, but the brightly colored ensembles - Frida Gustavsson's opening dress, Irina Kulikova's sky blue blouse and saffron yellow pencil skirt - were striking, and Heidi Mount's blue mesh paneled gown deserves a major red carpet moment. The show also marked Gurung's first shoe collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood, who said after the show: "I'm just happy no one tripped!"

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Fall Boot Camp

fashionologie — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 14:18:29 PDT

This season's boot is taking on a militia movement encompassing hard-edged touches via distressed finishes, chunky heels, lug soles, and earthy hues. Styles vary from hard core, like See by Chloe's studded leather and velvet lace-up boots, to a more polished vibe as shown by this Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem floral-print silk ankle boot. Either way will leave you armed and ready for fashion combat.

From left to right: J. Crew Cracked Leather Boots ($215), See by Chloe Studded Boots ($465), Asos Tamara Wood Heel Boots ($185), Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem Floral-Print Ankle Boots ($1,195), Topshop Austin Cuff Boots ($135), Marc by Marc Jacobs Crosta Boots ($350), Jeffrey Campbell Bradley Boots ($165)

Nicholas Kirkwood and Peter Pilotto Collaborate on Spring 2011 Footwear Collection

coutorture — Fri, 06 Aug 2010 09:40:29 PDT

London based footwear designer Nicholas Kirkwood is partnering with Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos on a capsule collection of fall shoes. The lineup of two styles will make their debut at the Peter Pilotto spring runway show during London Fashion Week this September. Kirkwood has been creating footwear for Peter Pilotto for two seasons, but this marks the first collection that will go into production. Kirkwood has also worked with Rodarte and Erdem on recent shoe collections.

Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte's First Knitting Project was a Sweater for a Pet Lizard

fashionologie — Thu, 06 May 2010 13:16:38 PDT

>> "We were losers," Rodarte's Kate Mulleavy proclaimed to the audience who came to hear her and sister Laura get peppered with questions at FIT in New York Tuesday night. Kate was speaking of the time before she and Laura were designers, and instead were college graduates, sitting at home watching six films a day. Laura eventually picked up a waitressing gig, but as for Kate, she did, in her own words, "nothing." Later, Kate added of their current state: "Technically, we shouldn't even be up here. In a weird way, it's like we had a stream of circumstances where I look at now and think, 'This is so crazy that this happened to us.' But we're probably the least likely people that it should have happened to."

Would they ever design separately? »