>> Laura Mulleavy told WWD she didn't sleep last night because she was so nervous about the Rodarte show — inspired by the singed Death Valley and "mangled and tattered" black vultures — today, but she had nothing to fear. The room was packed for her and her sister Kate's Spring 2010 collection debut; crunchy black sand was on the floor, dry ice smoke filled the room, and a musky scent wafted through the room as part of a collaboration with fragrance company Firmenich. The first look emerged from the silver cave opening-like set, all plaid and burnt cheesecloth.  Following behind was lots of black, some feathers . . . deconstructed looks with tie dye and raw hems and patchwork.  Every model had her arms painted with makeup to appear like tribal tattoes, goth lips, and their hair wrapped in webbed wool.

Tavi of Style Rookie, the Mulleavys' muse, was front row, Nicholas Kirkwood did the heels again, causing one tumble and a trip by Karlie Loss, and frequent Rodarte collaborator Autumne de Wilde was backstage filming a Rodarte movie.  Full play-by-play here.

>> While guests sat in tinfoil-wrapped folding chairs, Laura and Kate Mulleavy sent out a collection that was living proof of their recent Swiss Textile Award; they were furnished with the financial ability to mix even more materials than before — leather, lace, metallics, Swarovski crystals, and of course those knits they're so well known for.

The inspiration was photographer Ari Marcopoulos, but when you get down to it, the collection is just another evolution of the Rodarte aesthetic that has been in place for a few seasons now: a collage of textured, hand-stitched, wearable art.  There weren't any long, flowy dresses this time, just short, semi-structured minidresses; that, combined with the iridescent fabrics used on some pieces is sure to draw some Balenciaga comparisons.  Nicholas Kirkwood contributed the shoes again, this time square-toed, leather strap-wrapped thigh-high boots, but it's still those knits that really get you — those loopy, nubby, arts-and-crafts knits.
*image: source

>> Jonathan Saunders used colors aplenty and frothy, full skirts in his namesake Spring 2009 collection, and there was more where that came from for his first outing at Pollini.  Complemented by Nicholas Kirkwood's minibags and high heels for the brand, Saunders sent out 27 looks that kept the press interested.

WWD raved: "a promising start of pretty clothes with plenty of commercial appeal"; Vogue UK wholeheartedly approved: "[Pollini] built its reputation on strong colour and prints — and Saunders proved today that he was without doubt the best choice to embrace that history"; and Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also saw good in the match: "slimmer tailoring, still with graphic patterns, was a less dynamic take and jersey dresses were too complex in their asymmetry. But this was a clear start for Saunders."  Now just one important thing remains to be seen — can the collection sell (to editors and consumers)?