fashionologie

Minimalism - Just a "Blip on the Fashion Radar" Come Spring?

fashionologie — Thu, 07 Oct 2010 12:20:59 PDT

>> Is fashion's minimalist revival going to be over come Spring? In the wake of Paris Fashion Week, a number of insiders seem to think so.

Marc Jacobs is on board with the idea - the campy Spring 2011 Louis Vuitton collection spurred Vogue.com's Sarah Mower to write: "The excitement of stylized, decadent fun, running rampant as a backlash against minimalism [is] an idea that fashion editors will take up." Style.com's Nicole Phelps, too, made note of Jacobs's about-face from last season: "Not unlike his seventies-inflected signature show back in New York more than three weeks ago, this was a flat-out refusal of the minimalism that was all over last season's runways, his own included."

The New York Times's Eric Wilson chimes in: "It was striking to see jarring pink-and-orange combos at a number of shows: Martin Grant, Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, Giles Deacon, Christopher Kane and Marc Jacobs. (Not buying it was Karl Lagerfeld, who, at the Chanel show, told Cathy Horyn of The Times: 'I really don’t think women want to go around looking like a Saint Laurent shopping bag.') Regardless, it made last fall’s foray into minimalism feel like just a blip on the fashion radar." Paper's Mickey Boardman adds: “After the Céline-ification of fashion, everything became about good taste and beige. I think we all hungered for hot pink.”

Retailers seem to be feeling similarly. Ed Burstell, managing director at Liberty of London, told WWD: “I think there’s going to be some boredom for minimalism [by Spring]. I’m not sure everyone’s willing to walk away from things that are a little more fun and sexy to [looks more suited to] a Connecticut soccer mom heading for lunch.” Lane Crawford's Sarah Rutson agrees: “The customer has had enough of neutrals from fall. We need to set the sales floor alive with color and print."

fashionologie — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 07:58:11 PDT

>> Advance Copies of Isabella Blow Biography Receiving Raves -This Fall, Isabella Blow is getting her biographical due. There's a picture-based book (with personal letters from fashion figures), put together by Blow's assistant Martina Rink, out in November, an unauthorized biography out in December, and Blow by Blow, a book co-written by Blow's husband, Detmar Blow, and Tom Sykes, out Nov. 9. Review copies of the latter are receiving raves - Paper's Mickey Boardman tweeted: "I'm reading Blow by Blow (an advance copy) and it's amaaaazing." And Euan Rellie, who is married to the author Tom's sister, Lucy Sykes, Tweeted: "Detmar Blow & Tom Sykes's coming book on Issie: Blow by Blow. Salacious, romantic, riveting." [@AskMrMickey, @euanrellie]

Oscar de la Renta's Comments on Michelle Obama Ruffle Feathers

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 13:54:26 PDT

>> Last week, Oscar de la Renta drew a lot of heat for his frustrated comments on Michelle Obama's decision to champion small fashion houses, wearing Thakoon and Jason Wu over Donna Karan or Ralph Lauren:

American fashion right now is struggling. I think I understand what [Obama and her advisers] are doing, but I don’t think that is the right message at this particular point . . . I don’t object to the fact that Mrs. Obama is wearing J.Crew to whatever because the diversity of America is what makes this country great. But there are a lot of great designers out there. I think it’s wrong to go in one direction only.

He got particularly pointed about Obama's choice of an Alaia cardigan to meet Queen Elizabeth: “You don’t go to Buckingham Palace in a sweater.”

Needless to say, fashion community feathers were ruffled - Paper's Mickey Boardman blogged a piece requesting de la Renta to "hush": "It's beneath de la Renta's dignity as an elder statesman of American Fashion to consistently complain and criticize a First Lady who has done so much for American fashion."

But Oscar's sticking to his guns »

New, New York, Talent: Joseph Altuzarra

fashionologie — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:49:38 PDT

>> He showed for the first time ever at New York Fashion Week - by appointment only - and already he's getting major buzz.

As Mickey Boardman at Paper put it, "The name all those in-the-know were dropping was Joseph Altuzarra. French Vogue . . . told Paper that Altuzarra, who worked previously at Proenza Schouler and Givenchy, is the one [to] watch from New York Fashion Week." Stores are vying for exclusives on his first collection - and he's got a lookbook model in Vanessa Traina, who chipped in her two cents: "The right magazines came to see his stuff, the right stores want to buy it-which means, personally, it’s been a pretty good week for the guy." And Julia Restoin-Roitfeld already wore one of his dresses to the Calvin Klein 40th Anniversary party last week.

But the part that really sticks with me is Vanessa Traina being in the lookbook - seems like Joseph is just where Alexander Wang was a couple of years ago, when he was just starting out and had Vanessa modeling in his lookbook.
*image: source, source, source

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Confirmed: Halston, Sarah Jessica Parker Go In on Deal

fashionologie — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 15:30:54 PST

>> After reports yesterday, Halston confirmed that a deal with Sarah Jessica Parker has been signed. She's not expected to be involved in Marios Schwab's upcoming designer line for the brand, but will rather be focusing on an active design role - perhaps even as creative director - in Halston Heritage, the brand's contemporary label.

Paper's Mickey Boardman reports of the agreement:

A source at Halston tells us that SJP will actually be a member of the company's board and will receive equity in the company. Company insiders insist all designing will be handled by creative director Marios Schwab and shudder at comparisons to the House of Ungaro which has suffered ridicule for it's affiliation with actress Lindsay Lohan.

Insiders react »