fashionologie

This Week's Best Dressed

fashionologie — Fri, 02 Dec 2011 14:51:33 PST

>> From London to Sydney to Miami, this week's best-dressed is a colorful bunch. See who's wearing what - and where - in the slideshow.

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Demi-Couture Is On the Rise

fashionologie — Tue, 25 Oct 2011 14:16:18 PDT

>> Designers are clocking an increased demand for the high-end side of ready-to-wear - demi-couture, as it's called. Mary Katrantzou's Jewel Tree dress, left, which required four studios putting in more than 150 hours to make, caused one seamstress to cry, and retails at $14,200, sold 18 units this Fall. Matthew Williamson president Joseph Velosa reports: "Pieces over $5,000 now account for six percent of our business. To put that into context, two years ago we sold nothing at that price." And Azzedine Alaia joined the couture schedule in July, showing what he called "semi-couture" - pieces which could be purchased as-is - to much acclaim.

Although these clothes have price tags that run mid-four to five figures, they are sold off the rack through the typical retail channels, rather than involving the time commitment of multiple atelier fittings like a couture piece does. Katrantzou's Jewel Tree dress, for instance, is currently available on Net-a-Porter and can be delivered next day.

Jason Wu, who has a houndstooth tweed overcoat with gold bullion embroidery for $15,000 and started using Paris ateliers like Lesage and Lemarie a few seasons ago, says: "Between all the designer collaborations and everything that's going on, we need to give people a reason to buy. There are some things that just can't be done for cheaper."

And Prabal Gurung, who is selling a hand-painted organza and braided chiffon gown for $15,000, adds: "There's a customer who wants this stuff, but it's like one in each city. You hope to sell a lot, but five total is great."

Matthew Williamson Spring 2012

fashionologie — Sun, 18 Sep 2011 21:23:12 PDT

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A Look at Matthew Williamson's New Diffusion Line, MW Matthew Williamson

fashionologie — Fri, 29 Jul 2011 11:59:04 PDT

>> After flirting with the idea via collaborations with H&M and Macy's, Matthew Williamson's is finally premiering his first diffusion line, MW Matthew Williamson. The approximately 250-piece collection - which is hitting shop floors now - has an average price point of $400-$560 and a slightly different slant than Williamson's main line. The designer explains: "The main line is known more for print and color and that sort of red-carpet aesthetic, glamour and jet-set and all those kind of ideas. So whilst those ideas have some synthesis within the diffusion line, I wanted to make it more about an urban wardrobe and less about specialty pieces."

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Count Matthew Williamson Out of the Kate Middleton Wedding Dress Race - It's Not His "Thing"

fashionologie — Wed, 16 Mar 2011 11:03:25 PDT

>> Prabal Gurung recently expressed a desire to dress Kate Middleton: "The women I like dressing always have to have a strength of mind and real character. It's about the content of their heart and mind. Kate is representative of that ideal. She is very democratic in the way she dresses. She never behaves badly and we live in a world where people become famous for falling out of a taxi drunk. And then there's Kate - poised, looking like she's enjoying herself and holding onto her integrity." And Gurung is one among many designers currently clamoring for the opportunity to outfit Middleton. But not so for Matthew Williamson, who says, “Kate isn’t a fashion bunny. I don’t know why everyone in fashion is waiting to see what she wears. I’m, like, thinking: get over it.” He added that despite recently launching a bridal line, designing the royal wedding dress isn't his "thing." [Vogue UK, Telegraph UK]

Matthew Williamson Fall 2011

fashionologie — Tue, 22 Feb 2011 12:21:55 PST

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Karl Lagerfeld's Affordable Masstige Line Said to Be Coming to Macy's; Matthew Williamson Signed Up, Too

fashionologie — Tue, 23 Nov 2010 11:22:13 PST

>> Macy's announced last month that it was getting on the limited-edition discount designer collection bandwagon, beginning with London designer Kinder Aggugini in February. The Aggugini collaboration is expected to be the first in a string of collaborations, and will go on sale for two months before the next one is announced - which Fashionista reports will be a line by Matthew Williamson for the retailer.

It sounds like Karl Lagerfeld, who kicked off the inaugural H&M designer collection, may be third up for Macy's. Unbeige reports: "We hear that the national retailer has inked a deal with the Karl Lagerfeld brand, owned by private equity firm Apax Partners, for an affordably priced ready-to-wear line that will range from jeans to gowns. The new line, slated to launch with a collection for Fall 2011, is also expected to include a major online component, with e-commerce as a key distribution channel."

Apax has previously brokered the currently-in-place exclusive distribution agreement between Macy’s and Tommy Hilfiger for his men’s and women’s sportswear, and Lagerfeld announced back in September that he was working on a new "masstige" ready-to-wear collection. At the time of the announcement, negotiations were under way for production and distribution for the line, but no deals had been signed.

Matthew Williamson's Muse Diffusion Line Won't Hit the Runway for Debut

fashionologie — Fri, 22 Oct 2010 08:46:27 PDT

>> Matthew Williamson has been making the rounds, promoting his new namesake Rizzoli book, but next week, he says: "I’m going on holiday! I’m going to the Maldives. I genuinely really need a break. [I]’ve been flat-out for a good year and a half working on various projects." That includes his new diffusion line, Muse. So will we be seeing that on the runway when it launches next season, a la Zac Posen's Z Spoke? "Oh, God no. You’re making me draw my champagne at the thought! Not initially, anyway. We’ll have agents selling it, and we’re hoping it will have kind of a global presence, and then who knows? We’ll see how it goes." [DFR]

Matthew Williamson Launching Diffusion Line, Muse by Matthew Williamson

fashionologie — Wed, 13 Oct 2010 09:14:16 PDT

>> Matthew Williamson is prepping to unveil his first diffusion collection - working title Muse by Matthew Williamson - for Fall 2011. "It will be womenswear but all will be revealed in due course - watch this space," Williamson said. "It just felt right - we've been here for 13 years and it's time to take the label further. We're ready for it now." Joseph Velosa, Williamson's business partner and the brand's CEO, added: “We’re confident, the identity of the first line is solid, and we feel like there are very clear parameters for a diffusion line.” Jeffry Aronsson, founder and chairman of the Aronsson Group, which has a stake in Matthew Williamson, is said to have conceived the idea.

Velosa sees Muse as a “younger sister” to Matthew Williamson's signature collection, meant to sell alongside Marc by Marc Jacobs and See by Chloe. Prices will range from 300 pounds ($474) for a day dress to 500 pounds ($790) for evening pieces. Williamson will design two Muse collections annually; as for what it will look like, the designer replied: "That's a good question, it's still being worked on at the moment. I'm just a workaholic - I just needed even more to do." Velosa elaborated: “It’s for a woman who wants feel-good clothing, and it will have the same aesthetic, DNA and surface signatures as the main line."

Models Backstage at London Fashion Week: Neons at Christopher Kane, Coco Rocha at Giles, and More

fashionologie — Wed, 22 Sep 2010 09:38:29 PDT

>> Alessandra Ambrosio has taken a couple of turns on the Spring 2011 catwalks - the latest was at Giles, where she wore her bread and butter: a bikini. "I wake up and read [show stylist] Katie [Grand]'s message on my phone - 'Are you okay wearing a bikini?'" she told The Cut. "I had to think second thoughts about what I was going to have for breakfast. [But] I'm like, 'I guess.' Because I'm Brazilian and I do Victoria's Secret, it wouldn't be polite to say I'm not okay. As long as it's not a G-string, I'm okay. I'm a mom now: I can't [do G-strings]." See Ambrosio, Jessica Stam, and more doing the backstage thing during London Fashion Week - we've got snaps from Christopher Kane, Erdem, Giles, Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson, Marios Schwab, Mark Fast, Peter Pilotto, Pringle of Scotland, Richard Nicoll, Jonathan Saunders, Topshop Unique, and Vivienne Westwood.

Photos: Greg Kessler

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