fashionologie

fashionologie — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 11:29:30 -0700

>> Renzo Rosso Expects To Name New Margiela Designer Shortly -It was only recently finally confirmed that Martin Margiela is no longer involved with the designing at Maison MM, but the brand's majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso, according to The Moment, says he's "thisclose to naming a new designer at Martin Margiela. Rosso stressed that Martin Margiela will continue to be involved with his namesake label, albeit at a distance." [The Moment, @themoment]

fashionologie — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 15:06:46 -0700

>> Finally Confirmed: Martin Margiela Not Involved in Designing Maison -Just a year ago for the Spring 2009 season, Maison Martin Margiela celebrated its twentieth anniversary with a retrospective show - around that time, rumors began to circulate that the designer left the brand, since bolstered by tepid reviews for the house's Fall 2009 ready-to-wear and couture collections, and most recently, Spring 2010, which Suzy Menkes called "tragic." Over the weekend, Margiela majority stakeholder Renzo Rosso finally confirmed: "Martin has not been there for a long time. He is here but not here. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015." Also confirmed: the fact that Haider Ackermann was offered creative directorship, but turned it down - likely because the brand refuses to publicize the head designer; it's said that the house is contractually obligated to permanently list Margiela as creative director. [Vogue UK, FWD]

Is Martin Margiela's Supposed Exit Just an Elaborate Hoax?

fashionologie — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 14:00:15 -0700

>> Rumors have been swirling around Martin Margiela for almost a year now - but is it all just a ruse put into play by the designer himself?

First, it was reported last September that he was exiting fashion imminently; by March of this year, despite company execs assuring that the designer was still in place, critics were convinced that Margiela had left the building. And last week, T posited that Haider Ackermann may be taking Margiela's place.

But now, Hint reports:

While rumors are brewing that Haider Ackermann may be Martin Margiela's successor, sources close to the elusive Belgian insist that this is one of his elaborate hoaxes. Whatever the case, we hear the incognito king was at the Los Angeles boutique not long ago waiting on unsuspecting costumers.

It sounds like Margiela is still in place at the company if he's waiting on customers at one of his boutiques - so maybe the hoax doesn't just involve the Ackermann rumor, but encompasses the entire supposed exit . . .

Haider Ackermann Rumored to Be Taking Over Maison Martin Margiela

fashionologie — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 16:35:33 -0700

>> Haider Ackermann has had a fan in Tilda Swinton for years - she has chosen him numerous times for the red carpet - but his Fall 2009 collection earned him a wider fan base. Style.com raved: "Has Haider Ackermann finally arrived? The beautiful collection he showed today certainly suggests he deserves every bit of the newfound attention." Over the weekend, T echoed the sentiment that Fall 2009 helped the designer make the jump "from newcomer to trendsetter."

His business grew by 43 percent last year, and rumors "have been swirling for months," according to T, that Ackermann would be taking over Maison Martin Margiela:

When queried about the speculation, he sidesteps: 'When you meet the person you have admired for so many years, how can you possibly replace him? Sometimes it's better never to meet your heroes.'

He is open to designing for another house »

Martin Margiela Goes Artisanal with Pen Caps, False Eyelashes for Fall 2009 Couture

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 19:15:40 -0700

>> There's been plenty of contention about Martin Margiela's current role at his Maison, and for the label's Fall 2009 couture Artisanal line, plenty of familiar tactics were used: faceless models, nude or black leotards, and handmade jackets out of blue pen caps and vests out of false eyelashes. But as WWD pointed out - "While Margiela played to his artsy tune, there was tamer fare - a leather motorcycle jacket decorated with chains à la Michael Jackson and a shaved vintage fur, which illustrated the house is migrating into more commercial territory" - citing the fact that the presentation was also used to show off the house's second semiprecious jewelry collection.

Is Maison Martin Margiela's Faceless Designer No Longer Behind the Scenes?

fashionologie — Mon, 01 Jun 2009 14:24:35 -0700

>> Rumors have been swirling about the status of Martin Margiela at his Maison since last year, and though chief executive Giovanni Pungetti avowed back in March that Margiela was "still in position," though had reduced his level of involvement to that of a consultant, critical reaction to the Fall 2009 collection which debuted that same month implied that there was no trace of Margiela the designer left.

Margiela arranged a meeting early last year with Raf Simons to discuss the possibility of replacing him, but Raf ultimately decided to stay at Jil Sander. Diesel, which bought a majority stake in the company in 2002, is also rumored to be interviewing candidates for the position - Haider Ackermann has been named as one.

Although a replacement has yet to be named, JC Report's sources confirm that Margiela is no longer a presence at all:

According to our source, Margiela and his Italian sales agent had created a pact very early on that if one left the company then the other would follow. Given Margiela's vocal dissatisfaction with Diesel's marketing approach and commercial distribution, it seems clear that the two are taking joint steps away from each other. As a follow up to this conversation, we were in contact with a designer of one of the numerous Margiela sub-brands, who simply stated: 'He has not been present since last season.'

Alexander McQueen Perpetuates That Enfant Terrible Streak

fashionologie — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:37:03 -0700

>> Alexander McQueen, famously outspoken, spoke out in an interview for the Spring 2009 issue of Numero Homme (#17), and started by giving his interviewer, Numero editor at large Philip Utz, and fashion journalism as a whole, a dressing-down: "[it's a] thinly-veiled exercise in marketing." Then, he moved on to the British Fashion Council - "[it] doesn't know what the f*ck it's doing" - and another one of his favorite subjects to disparage - Hubert de Givenchy.

McQueen was the designer for Givenchy from 1997 to 2001, and upon his installation, he declared Hubert de Givenchy's work "irrevelant"; it seems the years have not softened his opinion: "Well what do you make of Hubert de Givenchy? He was only ever any good at ripping off [Cristobal] Balenciaga."

He saves admiration for a select couple »

fashionologie — Mon, 09 Mar 2009 14:07:24 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -There's been confusion a number of months about whether Martin Margiela has withdrawn from his brand, and even though Margiela execs assure he's still in place, after last week's collection, critics seem convinced he's not. As Cathy Horyn put it, "Just about everything at the show tonight - the hokey starlight projections on the ceiling, the empty design techniques, the use of beautiful young models instead of older, interesting-looking chicks - said that Mr. Margiela is no longer involved in his label, as editors have speculated for some time." WWD agreed: "Where in the world is Martin Margiela? Judging from the house’s fall collection, the designer has finally left the building." And Suzy Menkes implored a fix, fast: "Of Margiela's rigorous exploration of a personal vision, there is no sign and Renzo Rosso, chief executive of the 'Only the Brave' company that owns his Diesel empire, needs to do something fast." [NYT, WWD, IHT]
*image: source

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009: Doing Well, Head in the Clouds

fashionologie — Fri, 06 Mar 2009 16:37:25 -0800

>> Martin Margiela may be to blame for the overloaded shoulders, shaggy coats, and sculptural necklines we're seeing everywhere else for Fall 2009, and his bellwhether abilities are really paying off - his Paris stores logged a 21 percent sales increase year over year in January. Despite rumors last season that he was on the brink of leaving the company, "he's still in position," Margiela chief exec Giovanni Pungetti assures, although he disclosed that the designer recently reduced his day-to-day involvement and is seldom in the company's headquarters. Instead, "He’s concentrating on more strategic projects. He’s still working with us in the key decisions of the company. This is the spirit [Martin] wanted to create; that’s his philosophy. He’s more consulting with us than designing every product. The team is more Margiela than him.”

Indeed, the Fall 2009 collection - whoever designed it - seemed the essence of Margiela. The show was about "morphing," and models walked the zigzagged catwalk, starting with a woman wearing only a bra and nude tights, graduating into greater states of dress - slashed trenches and tops, looped capes, and Margiela's newest answer to the highlighted shoulder - clear plastic shoulder pads held by black bra straps. One model wore a cotton cloud. The crowd was left speechless at the end, and a muted applause broke out amongst the bewilderment. But it is here that the seeds of future seasons are planted.
*image: source

Martin Margiela Looks Back over Twenty Maison Years for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 15:32:07 -0700

>> In what could very well be his last collection, given all the rumors about his exit, Martin Margiela went the retrospective route for his twentieth anniversary collection - it would be a very fitting end, no? All of the models were faceless - a nod to the designer's obsession with anonymity - and the house uniform, a white lab coat, came out in various forms, including during the final bow, when the entire staff emerged on the runway rather than Margiela himself. A hit parade of plastic bags, disco balls, bustier catsuits, Barbie clothes, and AIDS T-shirts led into the final look: a giant silk birthday cake, with two pairs of legs underneath. Was it Margiela's final look ever?
*image: source