>> The Row to Do Jeans for Spring 2010 —Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen held their Spring 2010 showroom presentation for The Row today, and Who What Wear's Katherine Power Tweets: "such great jackets and for the first time, jeans! They look like vintage levis, so good." O magazine's Adam Glassman snapped a picture of a mint green cardigan from the collection. [Katherine Power Twitter, Adam Glassman Twitter]
Maria Cornejo
Rodarte, Inspired by Death Valley and Vultures, Go Goth Tribal Warrior for Spring 2010
>> Laura Mulleavy told WWD she didn't sleep last night because she was so nervous about the Rodarte show — inspired by the singed Death Valley and "mangled and tattered" black vultures — today, but she had nothing to fear. The room was packed for her and her sister Kate's Spring 2010 collection debut; crunchy black sand was on the floor, dry ice smoke filled the room, and a musky scent wafted through the room as part of a collaboration with fragrance company Firmenich. The first look emerged from the silver cave opening-like set, all plaid and burnt cheesecloth. Following behind was lots of black, some feathers . . . deconstructed looks with tie dye and raw hems and patchwork. Every model had her arms painted with makeup to appear like tribal tattoes, goth lips, and their hair wrapped in webbed wool.
Tavi of Style Rookie, the Mulleavys' muse, was front row, Nicholas Kirkwood did the heels again, causing one tumble and a trip by Karlie Loss, and frequent Rodarte collaborator Autumne de Wilde was backstage filming a Rodarte movie. Full play-by-play here.
>> Rad Hourani's Goal Is To Have a Signature Piece —Rad Hourani continued his mostly-black, unisex aesthetic yesterday during his Spring 2010 presentation at Milk Studios, dressing both male and female models in leggings and heels paired with looser tops. That base is nothing new for the designer, but this time, he added chain fringe detailing and touches of silver and white to keep it fresh — full collection here. The look is here to stay, he says, because he doesn't "need to feel like I’m evolving or doing something new every season." In fact, he's set himself up as kind of an anti-designer designer: "I am completely anti-trend and allergic to some of the things that people follow. I like quality or shapes that have no reference. People like to point things of the '60s, '70s, for example, and classify them. I like to have no seasons, or references and that’s how my pieces will stay timeless." The most important thing for him, he says, is to have a signature: "What would make me happy is someone on the streets today, tomorrow or in 10 years wearing a jacket of my collection and people knowing it’s Rad without having to look at the label." [Paper]
Zero + Maria Cornejo Does Digital Nature for Spring 2010
>> A number of designers this past week have been looking to nature and the organic for inspiration — even if just for a earthy, neutral color palette; Maria Cornejo is one of them. "The dynamic relationship we have with our surroundings; the beautiful tension of organic elements pushing through the cement of an urban landscape are what inspired me most. I love the energy of the city but always feel the pull of nature, so I find myself grabbing moments wherever I can."
With Cindy Sherman front row, she sent out four district sets of looks — black and white noise, wood, grass, and water — referring to the print that pervaded the group; the wood, ocean, and grass digitally-based patterns came from photos Cornejo took with her iPhone. For the first time, she added a capsule collection of swimwear, but it's the accessories that really caught attention: stiff curves of bent wood belting half the waist, lying around the neck, cuffing the wrist, and a half-sandal, half-bootie shoe.
The Last Two POP Covers for Dasha Zhukova's First Issue, Plus More Inside Details
>> The first issue of POP under Dasha Zhukova's guiding hand hits newsstands tomorrow at $8, with two international newsstand covers, each with a 50/50 split run, of Style Rookie's Tavi, plus a 500-copy limited-edition hardback cover by Ed Ruscha (below, left), and a limited subscriber's cover of Cicciolina for the Baltic States (below, right).

“The new Pop launches at an exciting turning point in fashion, where the possibilities and potential for creativity are almost overwhelming,” Zhukova told WWD. “The new era is more fluid than ever before; one where teenage girls in Chicago, fashion editors in Paris, street photographers from Berlin and bloggers everywhere . . . redefine the fashion landscape.”
>> INSIDER WIRE —Late last month, a group of designers, including Narciso Rodriguez, Maria Cornejo, Jason Wu, and Thakoon Panichgul, took a trip to Washington, DC accompanied by CFDA executive director Steven Kolb to lobby for an anti-piracy bill to stop mass retailers from knocking off their ideas. But when Rick Owens was recently asked if he cares that his look is being rampantly copied, his reply? "No-oo. I guess it's a compliment." [Guardian]




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