fashionologie

David Bailey Joins Katie Grand, Peter Lindbergh in Reaction Against Airbrushing

fashionologie — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:27:25 -0700

>> Last year, there was a huge push for more diversity in fashion, culminating in the publication of Vogue Italia's all-black July 2008 issue. Unfortunately, attention on that issue has waned this year, even though there is still much work to be done; now, the issue du jour seems to be what has become a common practice among fashion magazines: heavy retouching.

Katie Grand, who while at POP was a huge proponent of the "super glossy" look, has since reigned in her reliance on Photoshop. Of her first issue of LOVE, which came out in February, Katie told Interview, "It's not so retouched. I just wanted to take pictures of iconic people without redrawing them." And she's continuing the tradition for her second issue, out Sept. 1 - she had Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (whose aesthetic generally lends itself to a good bit of retouching) photograph cover girl Coco Sumner as she walked in off the street, no hair or makeup. The Times UK wrote of that decision: "She is shrewdly tapping into the new spirit of the times - heavily airbrushed celebrities seem gauche and embarrassing during a recession."

David Bailey: "It’s f*cking ridiculous" »

fashionologie — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 17:41:47 -0700

>> Vogue Runs Editorial in September 2009 Issue Strikingly Similar to August 2007 W Editorial -Vogue's September 2009 issue boasts an editorial called "Into the Woods," photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott; curiously enough, an editorial that ran in the August 2007 issue of W - by the same photographers - has a similar concept and the same name. Both editorials feature autumnal leafy backgrounds and the models - Natalia Vodianova for Vogue (right), Doutzen Kroes for W (left) - strike similar poses. [Fashionista, Comme Artiste]

Lara Stone Scores Second Vogue Paris Cover This Year - For September 2009 - By Going Brunette

fashionologie — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 17:08:55 -0700

>> So it turns out Vogue Paris's September 2009 cover - the one that was rumored to feature a "radical model makeover" - does boast Lara Stone, as suspected, complete with eyebrows (hers are normally bleached) and dark brown hair. The image, photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, marks the second this year Carine Roitfeld has devoted to Lara - the first fronting the February 2009 issue, in which she was the only model.

LOVE Goes for "The Young and the Reckless," Two Covers with Second Issue

fashionologie — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:56:45 -0700

>> Turns out the preview that hit the web early this month featuring a David Sims shot of Alex Hartley, a bass player from Birmingham, England, who Katie Grand "found on the Internet," is one of LOVE's two covers for its second issue, after all. The second cover comes courtesy of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, who did cover honors for LOVE the first time around, and features Coco Sumner, burgeoning it-girl and daughter of Sting.

Both cover stars are 18; in fact, most of the issue, which hits newsstands Aug. 24, is full of emerging celebrities and unknowns who are mostly under 21 - Allegra Beck Versace, Miley Cyrus, Kristen Stewart, and Taylor Momsen among them. “The whole issue’s full of these kids, really, who are at that turning point of life when you’ve got no responsibilities, you’re quite free and everything’s exciting,” Grand told WWD.

Grand added "more words" to the issue, bringing on Isaac Lock as deputy editor because: “I always think visually, so it was really important that the words team was strengthened." As for how the magazine's holding up on the business end, there are 106 ad pages from advertisers like Louis Vuitton, Prada, and Chanel in the 296-page magazine. The magazine had 116 ad pages for its debut issue, but Grand said the issue had “exceeded the targets set” for advertising.

Miuccia Prada Plucks Five Unknowns for New Fall 2009 Miu Miu Campaign Direction

fashionologie — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 12:35:22 -0700

>> After seasons and seasons of recognizable campaign faces - Kirsten Dunst, Lindsay Lohan, Vanessa Paradis, and most recently, Katie Holmes - set against vividly colorful backgrounds, Miuccia Prada did a total one eighty, choosing five unknown models - Mimmi Soderstrom, Hannah Holman, Ilda Lindqvist, Victoria Tuaz, and Whitney Coble - who were plucked at a time when only one, Coble, had walked on any major runways; the move is especially remarkable in a time when a number of major brands are sticking with celebrity or supermodel faces. The look for the Fall 2009 campaign - which was still shot in London, early May, by Miuccia's usual standbys, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott - is stark and mostly void of color.

September 2009 Issues To Be Lighter But Blonde-Heavy

fashionologie — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 11:58:02 -0700

>> As is to be expected, this year's September issues are not going to be the behemoths of yesteryear: publishers are approaching their closing deadlines this week and said that they expect issues to be about a third lighter than years past.

The September issues are still anticipated to be the Fall's largest, as most advertisers withdrew their pre-collection ads that run in August to focus on September and will run fewer ads, if any, in the remaining months. As for the cover faces, magazines are sticking with safe bets - blonde white women. Vogue will feature Charlize Theron, who usually graces their October covers (in 2004 and 2007); W will, as reported, have Kate Moss photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott; Elle will boast perenially newstand-friendly Jennifer Aniston; Allure went with Amanda Seyfriend, Glamour with Jessica Simpson, and Marie Claire with Ashley Olsen.

No word on Harper's Bazaar, POP, V, LOVE, or Vogue Italia, but Vogue Paris is said to be breaking the blonde mold by dying a usually flaxen-haired model's coif black in a "radical model makeover" - some suspect the "luscious" beauty in question may be Lara Stone.

Giorgio Armani Brings Out More '80s Flair for Cruise 2010

fashionologie — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 11:24:58 -0700

>> Giorgio Armani sticks with an idea when it works - the newest wave of Victoria and David Beckham's underwear ads, shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, are out today - and the same goes for his Cruise 2010 collection. He started exploring the eighties with a little Grace Jones influence in his Fall 2009 collection, and for resort he's taking the idea further with brightly-checked party dresses, polka dots, and a dash of sequins.

Dean and Dan Caten Leave Lara Stone to Covort with Male Models for Fall 2009 DSquared2 Campaign

fashionologie — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 14:33:40 -0700

>> Lara Stone has developed a devoted cult following - Carine Roitfeld dedicated an entire issue of Vogue Paris to her, Stella McCartney recently gushed about wanted to "celebrate Lara" and her "fantastic breasts" - and as a result Lara's been able to convert more single girl campaigns. For Fall 2009, she picked up lingerie with Eres and the followup to DSquared2's epic Spring 2009 campaign with Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell fighting. Originally, designers Dean and Dan Caten were supposed to join her in the ads shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, but in the images they uploaded, it looks like they went with three male models instead.

fashionologie — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:01:28 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Kate Moss has been pretty off the radar since she hosted the Costume Institute Gala last month . . . until she popped up today at the Topshop offices. Maybe a vacation was in order, but she also worked at least a little, shooting an upcoming W cover - September 2009, perhaps - with Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott on May 22. More recently, the magazine photographed Lara Stone, Guinevere van Seenus, and Edita Vilkeviciute at a country house with a lake outside of London. [Sophynails Twitter, Sophynails Twitter]

Raquel Zimmermann Shows Off Razor Sharp Cheekbones for Giorgio Armani Fall 2009 Campaign

fashionologie — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 13:32:40 -0700

>> Giorgio Armani has niece Roberta Armani increasingly stepping in for him in the public eye as a brand ambassador and just released the newest set of underwear ads featuring David Beckham this morning, but the brand face we're most interested in is Raquel Zimmermann, whose Fall 2009 ads for Armani - the first of many for her this season - are starting to pop up. The same team was used for Fall 2009 as for Spring 2009: stylist Katy England with Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, but Raquel replaces Sasha Pivovarova as the face of the brand.