fashionologie

Fashion In 50 Seconds 04/09/09 Westwood Goes Bridal & More

coutorture — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 07:05:38 PDT

Vivienne Westwood's Sex In The City gown sold so well, she decided to launch an entire bridal range.

Marios Schwab blogged for British Vogue about his typical day in the studio, managing his ready to wear and Topshop lines.

Steven Meisel will make an appearance at this year's Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography as his work for Italian Vogue will take top billing.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua left Malo because they "don't need a marquee name" and also because IT Holding, which owns Malo, went bankrupt in February.

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 13:05:32 PDT

>> MODA OPERANDI -When IT Holding filed for the Italian equivalent of bankruptcy in late February, casualties were to be expected among its fashion brands Malo and Gianfranco Ferre, not to mention its licenses. Malo was shown in Milan as a small presentation soon after, instead of a full runway show in New York like seasons past - and the clothes couldn't hold a candle to the stunning collection designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua did for Spring 2009 back in September. Now, the casualty is pretty clear - Dell'Acqua is leaving the brand after less than a year, and going forward, the line will be designed by a team, with a focus on its core knitwear identity. [WWD]

Fashion In 50 Seconds 04/07/09 Dell'Acqua Leaves Malo & More

coutorture — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 06:56:57 PDT

Alessandro Dell'Acqua is leaving Italian brand Malo after only a year as creative director.

Anne Hathaway might be hanging out with Valentino but word is she's Marc Jacobs' new muse.

The anticipated Chanel film entitled "Coco Avant Chanel" premiered in Paris last night.

Bergdorf Goodman dedicated a good number of the Fifth Avenue window displays to Lanvin.

Fall 2009 Milan Wrap-Up: Still Whitewashed, But with Promising Talents Aquilano and Rimondi

fashionologie — Wed, 04 Mar 2009 15:55:21 PST

>> Milan is infamous for being one of the hardest markets to break open for models of color, and unfortunately, that still seems to be the case, based on tallying by The Cut. The worst offenders? Burberry, Giorgio Armani, Missoni, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, who all only used one model of color, while Gianfranco Ferre, Jil Sander, and Prada didn't use any.

Meanwhile, buyers have spoken on their Milanese favorites: Jil Sander, Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Pucci, Roberto Cavalli, and Gianfranco Ferré - surprisingly, Missoni was not in the mix.

A number of critics and retailers have Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi on their lists as Milan's most promising up-and-coming talent, but their situation at Gianfranco Ferre is currently tenuous - the front row Friday included three government-appointed special administrators, a reminder that owner IT Holding faces bankruptcy proceedings, and could take Ferre, Just Cavalli, John Galliano, and Malo down with it. Regardless, hopes are high - as Linda Fargo, fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, put it, "Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi continue to show the promise of world-class design for the future - both in their own line and at Gianfranco Ferré. We hope the dust settles favorably on Ferre as the two designers are hitting the right notes."

Other highlights on the to-watch list: Christopher Kane at Versus and, for next season, Vionnet, under the care of Prada alum Rodolfo Paglialunga.
*image: source

Peter Som Cobbles Together Fall 2009 Collection; Other Designers Not So Fortunate

fashionologie — Thu, 12 Feb 2009 17:48:43 PST

>> Peter Som has had a tough past six months, between the fallout at Bill Blass and the pull out of his eponymous lines' investor. Two weeks ago, he wasn't even sure if he was going to be able to pull anything together for Fashion Week, but he's succeeded in producing something for Fall 2009 - a capsule collection of 16 looks, which he will be showing at private appointments.

Peter's not alone in his misfortune this season - for various other labels, big and small, Fall 2009 isn't panning out so well either. Some, like Peter, have had to cancel their runway show in favor of showroom appointments (Sari Gueron) or lookbooks (Francis by Christian Francis Roth, who just tried to stage a comeback last season). Some are just plain nixing their shows (Benjamin Cho, Hanii Y, Sue Stemp, Rubin Singer).

Poor newcomer Mikhael Kale had to cancel his show because his samples were damaged during shipping; he's remaking the collection for press and buyer appointments in two weeks' time. Italian knitwear label Malo, designed by Alessandro Dell'Acqua, is totally missing in action, even though it always draws Carine Roitfeld and Franca Sozzani front row. And Patrick Robinson has postponed Gap's presentation until April. Here's to hoping the news only gets better from here.
*image: source

fashionologie — Fri, 05 Sep 2008 23:46:06 PDT

>> INSIDER WIRE -We'll be watching next Wednesday to see what Alessandro dell'Acqua has to offer in his new role at Malo, but now there's even more of a reason to pay close attention to the Spring 2009 show. The designer has tapped Edward Enninful to work his styling magic behind-the-scenes, and I, for one, can't wait to see the outcome.

*image: source

Alessandro Dell'Acqua To Take Over at Malo

fashionologie — Thu, 29 May 2008 13:38:54 PDT

>> Ch-ch-changes are in order at Malo. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi left the brand in April to become creative directors at Gianfranco Ferre — Malo and Ferre are both owned by IT Holding, so it's all in the family — and now their vacancy has been filled by one Alessandro Dell'Acqua.

Dell'Acqua's first collection for the Italian luxury knit company will be for the Spring 2009 season in September, and he will also continue to design his own eponymous collection. Instead of showing Malo at New York Fashion Week, as Aquilano and Rimondi did, however, Dell'Acqua will present the line in Milan.

*images: source

Carine Roitfeld: Missing in Fashion Week Action

fashionologie — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:05:46 PDT

>> Rodarte, Malo, and Marc Jacobs have all gone by - shows that Carine Roitfeld usually appears at during Fashion Week - and yet, no sign of her. At the end of Malo this morning, I had to know: Where was Carine?

I caught up with Vogue Paris junior editor Melanie Huynh (who's pregnant, by the way!), who told me Carine was coming for Friday - the last day of Fashion Week. As for what important project the Vogue Paris editor-in-chief was hunkered down with, Melanie wouldn't budge an inch on that information.

*image: source

Alessandro Dell'Acqua May Not Be Long at His Own Line

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 12:44:23 PDT

>> Alessandro Dell'Acqua broke with Italian knitwear brand Malo a couple of months ago, and now it sounds like he might be breaking with his own brand. On Friday, he sent a press release out through his public relations firm stating that both the Alessandro Dell'Acqua men's Spring 2010 collection and women's Pre-Spring 2010 collections "will be produced without my approval, as I haven't had the possibility to verify the conformity of the final product to the sketches I submitted to the company."

Cherry Grove, the corporation which acquired the Dell'Acqua brand and its trademarks in 2003, "has always been consistent with my style," Dell'Acqua wrote, "but in this case, despite of their formal assurance, . . . [they] decided to move forward without having me, the designer, check on the quality of the product."

Cherry Grove has not formally responded to the statement, which Dell'Acqua ended by disowning the two aforementioned collections: "I have to detach myself from these two collections that have not been approved by me and that I don't acknowledge as realization of my creations."