fashionologie

Fashion in 50 Seconds 03/24/10 Naomi Campbell For Vogue Russia, McQueen's Briefs

coutorture — Wed, 24 Mar 2010 08:15:10 PDT

Naomi Campbell guest edits (and appears exclusively in) Vogue Russia's April Issue.

Google wins European Union court ruling against Louis Vuitton that says it did not violate luxury goods trademarks by allowing counterfeiters to buy brand names as advertising key words that link to their online stores.

One of Alexander McQueen's last projects was a men's underwear collection, which will debut in June.

Manolo Blahnik is designing footwear, scarves, candles, shoehorns, notebooks, and Wellington boots using Liberty of London fabrics from the 19th century.

The H&M garden collection launches this week.

Saks Fifth Avenue plans to close two stores in Portland and possibly more later this year.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 01/28/10 No Lower-Priced Balmain, Tavi For Vogue Paris

coutorture — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 10:40:17 PST

Tommy Ton photographed Tavi Gevinson at her home in Chicago for Vogue Paris.

Vogue.com UK is the bearer of bad news. There will be no lower-priced Balmain in our futures.

Rodarte will be on view at the Smithsonian's Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York beginning February 11.

Now that couture has wrapped, resort 2011 planning begins. Christian Dior will show its cruise collection in Shanghai in April, while Chanel has set a May 11 date in Saint-Tropez.

Olivier Theyskens has sketched four complete collections while being unemployed for the past year.

Liberty of London helps decorate Nicholas Kirkwood's platform heels.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 12/02/09 December's Best Fashion Mags

coutorture — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 11:44:33 PST

Refinery 29's five favorite December fashion magazines.

Proenza Schouler launches e-commerce with a collection of wallets, satchels, and key chains in limited edition runs of 100.

From Lady Rocha to CoCorico, a list of name suggestions readers have submitted for Coco Rocha's new fashion line.

Naeem Khan created five dresses for Michelle Obama to consider wearing to the State Dinner.

H&M expands into home furnishings and plans to open stores in South Korea and Isreal next year.

Target partners with Liberty of London for a collection of fashion, home, and accessories.

Sean Combs sold out his entire fragrance collection within sixteen minutes on the Home Shopping Network last night.

Source: Refinery 29

fashionologie — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 11:08:16 PDT

>> Pendleton for Opening Ceremony Lookbook Appears -Liberty of London has scored with a number of collaborations with retailers - including APC and Topshop - this season, and now another heritage label is jumping into the collabo game for the first time. To celebrate its 100th anniversary, Pendleton is lending its Navajo prints to Opening Ceremony for a capsule collection. The product appears in August - 15 men's pieces available in women's sizing, plus eight women's pieces, all in wool made in the US, and all available starting in August: Coutorture has a preview of the lookbook, styled by Alastair McKimm. [Coutorture]

Are Sponsorships Ruining Creativity at London Fashion Week?

fashionologie — Thu, 23 Sep 2010 08:47:17 PDT

>> When Alexander McQueen was showing in the mid-'90s, he had Trino Verkade telephone three florists to wrangle heather and thistles for his Highland Rape show and then convince Liberty to mail the invitations for another one of his shows. “Honestly, I was trashy in the way I got money,” Ms. Verkade says. “It was also a time in London when everything was depressed. We were young.”

Now, however, sponsorships and corporate awards are more prevalent in London than anywhere else, and "most young designers, the thinking goes," writes Cathy Horyn, "couldn’t afford the costs of exposure without them." But, she continues, "the new generation of designers, while not exactly having it easy, has certainly been exposed to the system of sponsorships. And you wonder if it’s good for creativity . . . That almost childish refusal to take full responsibility for how their work is presented - as Mr. McQueen and [Hussein] Chalayan did [in the '90s and early '00s] - also seems to retard their creative powers."

Louise Wilson, the influential director of Central Saint Martins's master's program, says: “There is this omnipresent support here in England, and I’ll tell you what it’s done. There’s no risk. I think this generation has never chosen how they want to show.” Instead, the young designers rely on spaces financed by the likes of Topshop, and Wilson thinks they are not “looking for solutions to their own problems.” Chalayan agrees: "[Young designers] “are concerned about what the City thinks” - meaning potential backers and sponsors.

Minimalism - Just a "Blip on the Fashion Radar" Come Spring?

fashionologie — Thu, 07 Oct 2010 12:20:59 PDT

>> Is fashion's minimalist revival going to be over come Spring? In the wake of Paris Fashion Week, a number of insiders seem to think so.

Marc Jacobs is on board with the idea - the campy Spring 2011 Louis Vuitton collection spurred Vogue.com's Sarah Mower to write: "The excitement of stylized, decadent fun, running rampant as a backlash against minimalism [is] an idea that fashion editors will take up." Style.com's Nicole Phelps, too, made note of Jacobs's about-face from last season: "Not unlike his seventies-inflected signature show back in New York more than three weeks ago, this was a flat-out refusal of the minimalism that was all over last season's runways, his own included."

The New York Times's Eric Wilson chimes in: "It was striking to see jarring pink-and-orange combos at a number of shows: Martin Grant, Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, Giles Deacon, Christopher Kane and Marc Jacobs. (Not buying it was Karl Lagerfeld, who, at the Chanel show, told Cathy Horyn of The Times: 'I really don’t think women want to go around looking like a Saint Laurent shopping bag.') Regardless, it made last fall’s foray into minimalism feel like just a blip on the fashion radar." Paper's Mickey Boardman adds: “After the Céline-ification of fashion, everything became about good taste and beige. I think we all hungered for hot pink.”

Retailers seem to be feeling similarly. Ed Burstell, managing director at Liberty of London, told WWD: “I think there’s going to be some boredom for minimalism [by Spring]. I’m not sure everyone’s willing to walk away from things that are a little more fun and sexy to [looks more suited to] a Connecticut soccer mom heading for lunch.” Lane Crawford's Sarah Rutson agrees: “The customer has had enough of neutrals from fall. We need to set the sales floor alive with color and print."

Hannah MacGibbon Said "Devastated" at Chloe CEO Ralph Toledano's Exit

fashionologie — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 06:52:49 PDT

>> WWD confirms yesterday's rumors that Ralph Toledano, Chloe's well-respected and popular chairman and CEO since 1999, is no longer with the firm. Although when reached for comment, Toledano said, "We never comment on rumors," sources told WWD that Toledano recently left the company, shaking the house roughly a month before Paris Fashion Week.

Why did he leave? »