fashionologie

Rodarte, Inspired by Death Valley and Vultures, Go Goth Tribal Warrior for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 12:19:38 -0700

>> Laura Mulleavy told WWD she didn't sleep last night because she was so nervous about the Rodarte show - inspired by the singed Death Valley and "mangled and tattered" black vultures - today, but she had nothing to fear. The room was packed for her and her sister Kate's Spring 2010 collection debut; crunchy black sand was on the floor, dry ice smoke filled the room, and a musky scent wafted through the room as part of a collaboration with fragrance company Firmenich. The first look emerged from the silver cave opening-like set, all plaid and burnt cheesecloth. Following behind was lots of black, some feathers . . . deconstructed looks with tie dye and raw hems and patchwork. Every model had her arms painted with makeup to appear like tribal tattoes, goth lips, and their hair wrapped in webbed wool.

Tavi of Style Rookie, the Mulleavys' muse, was front row, Nicholas Kirkwood did the heels again, causing one tumble and a trip by Karlie Loss, and frequent Rodarte collaborator Autumne de Wilde was backstage filming a Rodarte movie. Full play-by-play here.

Designers Diversify: Olivier Theyskens Working on Book, Rodarte Could Have Movie in Works

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 12:19:34 -0700

>> Olivier Theyskens still hasn't found a landing pad, design-wise, but in the meantime, he has a book in the pipeline. In January, Assouline is publishing the 186-page Olivier Theyskens: The Other Side of the Picture, based on a collaboration between the designer and photographer Julien Claessens, who captured the backstage scene for 10-plus years.

Film buffs Rodarte, meanwhile, just signed with LA-based talent agency William Morris Endeavor Entertainment. WWD suggests that "a movie of their own could be in the cards," but for now, the official line is that William Morris plans to “advise the label on opportunities in publishing and film and identify potential strategic partnerships and sponsorships.”

The Last Two POP Covers for Dasha Zhukova's First Issue, Plus More Inside Details

fashionologie — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 13:17:07 -0700

>> The first issue of POP under Dasha Zhukova's guiding hand hits newsstands tomorrow at $8, with two international newsstand covers, each with a 50/50 split run, of Style Rookie's Tavi, plus a 500-copy limited-edition hardback cover by Ed Ruscha (below, left), and a limited subscriber's cover of Cicciolina for the Baltic States (below, right).

“The new Pop launches at an exciting turning point in fashion, where the possibilities and potential for creativity are almost overwhelming,” Zhukova told WWD. “The new era is more fluid than ever before; one where teenage girls in Chicago, fashion editors in Paris, street photographers from Berlin and bloggers everywhere . . . redefine the fashion landscape.”

Fake Karl, Jen Brill, and Mark Borthwick are all involved »

First POP Cover Under Dasha Zhukova Leaks; Zhukova May Be Pregnant

fashionologie — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 11:42:09 -0700

UPDATE: The cover has been removed.

>> The first POP cover under Dasha Zhukova for Fall/Winter 2009, featuring 13-year-old blogger Tavi from Style Rookie in artwork by Damien Hirst, is said to be the image at right. Hirst's participation marks Dasha's push to make the magazine reach further than just the fashion world as it had primarily in the past; her goal when first appointed editor in February was to "provide a broader point of view focusing also on art, contemporary culture and the globalisation of all things pop-related."

We've had a blurry peak at one of the magazine's editorials inside; the cover also boasts a contribution by Juergen Teller, a M/M Paris "bookzine," a 25-year tribute to Naomi Campbell, and "a stem-cell research celebration by Rodarte." If Tavi is indeed on the cover, it's worth noting that a couple of weeks ago, a preview from LOVE's upcoming issue circulated featuring Tavi - ironic that her first two major magazine appearances happen to be in Katie Grand's former magazine (POP), and her current magazine (LOVE).

On a more personal front: last month, Dasha Zhukova's relationship with billionaire Roman Abramovich was said to be over, and now she's being surrounded by pregnancy rumors.

The 2009 CFDA Awards Are Here! Rodarte, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler Take Home Wins

fashionologie — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 16:33:28 -0700

>> American designers are trickling in at Alice Tully Hall for tonight's CFDA Awards - CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg was first to arrive, International Award winner Marc Jacobs walked the red carpet arm and arm with fiance Lorenzo Martone, Kirsten Dunst came with Womenwear of the Year nominees Rodarte, presenter Diane Kruger arrived with Swarovski nominee Jason Wu, Doutzen Kroes is resplendent in Zac Posen, and all were greeted on the front steps by a crowd of models in the nominees' creations.

Swarovski nominee Alexander Wang said he's "not nervous at all" - he woke up today and "forgot it was the CFDAs," but we'll have to wait and see if this turns out to be a night to remember for him, after all . . .

The ceremony is now underway, and host Tracy Ullman opened with a Kiefer Sutherland-headbutting joke - Proenza Schouler is an Accessory Designer nominee, and arrived with Daphne Guinness in tow - the CFDA crowd is a notoriously tough crowd, and the joke was met with "weak laughter."

Later on, Tracy, known for her designer impressions on her eponymous TV show, took a crack at impersonating Anna Wintour. Michelle Obama, who wasn't there in body, accepted her Special Tribute Award by video, and Rodarte's Laura and Kate Mulleavy accepted their Womenswear Award saying they watched Midnight Cowboy this afternoon to calm their nerves.

And the winners are . . . (nominees here):

Accessory Designer of the Year: Proenza Schouler
Popular Vote Award: Ralph Lauren
Menswear Designer of the Year: Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein and Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders (tie)
Swarovski Award for Menswear: Tim Hamilton
Swarovski Award for Womenswear: Alexander Wang
Swarovski Award for Accessories: Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewelry
Womenswear Designer of the Year: Rodarte

Rodarte's Laura and Kate Mulleavy Spent a Year Watching Four Horror Movies a Day

fashionologie — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 12:35:38 -0700

>> Laura and Kate Mulleavy produce about 100 special-order Rodarte dresses a year and spent weeks perfecting the dyeing technique for their early "blood" dresses, ensuring that the red wouldn't leach into the white, but as for their own clothes, they don't aim to personify their brand: When they talked to the Times UK, Laura was wearing a striped shirt she though could be Russian, but it, like all her others, came from a flea market.

The designers have a well-documented film fetish, and spent a year watching horror movies, sometimes four a day, from the Japanese films that inspired their Fall 2008 collection to Hitchcock's oeuvre, fast-forwarding when it got boring. “Everyone in fashion loves Tippi Hedren wearing that green suit in The Birds," says Kate. “But we love the suit after she has been pecked.”

Their entry in fashion was fortuitous »

Rodarte Jets In to London for Private Dinner at Harvey Nicks

fashionologie — Thu, 04 Jun 2009 11:34:28 -0700

>> Fifty guests pulled up to a long white table at Harvey Nichol's Fifth Floor restaurant for a private dinner co-hosted by Rodarte's Laura and Kate Mulleavy and Kate Bosworth. Daphne Guinness flitted in, spritzing at least one guest with her yet-to-be-released perfume, frequent Rodarte collaborator Nicholas Kirkwood also appeared - his shoes were represented on at least one guest's feet, Kate Bosworth - and told Grazia of his work with the designers: "We didn't even meet the first few seasons that we worked together. Everything was over the phone and email. It was so great when we finally met. We get on so well and are on the same wave length. They always want to do something different - we've even made shoes out of electrical wire!"

Attendees Plum Sykes, Bella Freud, Trish Goff, and Lula's Leith Clark, who was seated next to Laura, were served nettle soup and trifle, and around midnight, when all headed home, the Mulleavys, Kate Bosworth, and Nicholas Kirkwood "headed out and onto another club."

Marc Jacobs Gets Bunny Ears, Jason Wu Wears a Dress for 2009 CFDA Journal

fashionologie — Tue, 02 Jun 2009 11:07:21 -0700

>> This year's CFDA Awards are coming up on June 15, and for the accompanying CFDA Journal, which is handed out at the ceremony and showcases all the nominees, Craig McDean and Karl Templer enlisted all 21 designers to model their own work (last year, Raquel Zimmermann did the honors).

Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte go rosy-cheeked, International Award winner for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, sports a pair of the bunny ears from his latest show, Accessory Designer of the Year nominees Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez wear their handbags like boxing gloves - perhaps a cheeky nod to recent events - and Swarovski Womenswear Designer nominee Jason Wu layered one of his evening gowns over a suit, playing on the Fred Astaire-Ginger Rogers duality of himself and his designs.

While the Journal won't be available for public consumption, the CFDA has introduced a Popular Vote Award this year, so that anyone can nominate their favorite designer to win until June 9.

fashionologie — Wed, 06 May 2009 13:04:17 -0700

>> INSIDER WIRE -Jack McCollough has finally spoken on the whole Kiefer Sutherland-headbutting incident - via spokesperson: "Anyone who knows Jack McCollough knows that he would not hurt a fly. All we can say at this point is that he was the victim of a vicious, violent, unprovoked assault and that the matter is in the hands of the authorities." Further details remain nebulous - some say McCollough interrupted Brooke Shields and Sutherland as they were speaking, causing the two men to exchange words; some say McCollough accidentally knocked Shields over and Sutherland demanded an apology; and some say Jack tried to order a drink and was headbutted for no reason. [People]

UPDATE: Apparently TMZ called Kate and Laura Mulleavy's house trying to suss out information (the incident occurred at the Costume Institute Gala after-party they were hosting). [Supreme Being Twitter]

UPDATE: Jezebel has a picture of Jack, damage in view, out in New York. [Jezebel]
*image: source

fashionologie — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 14:06:27 -0700

>> IN PRODUCTION -Mark Walsh and Leslie Chin's fourth jewelry collaboration with Rodarte didn't make it onto the runway for Fall 2009, but it will be making it into stores - including Colette. The 21 pieces of silvered bronze and rock crystal jewelry were inspired by medical experiments, and W's got a few pictures. Speaking of Rodarte, they seem to have a new brand ambassador - Reese Witherspoon, who has changed her Nina Ricci brand alliance. [W Editors' Blog, Elle News Blog]