>> It was a three-tone show for Ohne Titel this morning: black, gray, or brown, but it contrasted quite nicely with the light, bright white space; the only pops of color in the room came from the varicolored macaroons being served beforehand.  Quite the show for the newly-minted 2009 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winners.  The model cast was excitingly blue-chip — Liu Wen! Constance Jablonski! Lakshmi Menon! Eniko Mihalik! — it must be those unzipped knee-exposing stretch pants they're all gunning to take home; that and the over-the-knee, ruffled-top, lace-up back leather boots Alexa Adams and Flora Gill did in conjunction with Cesare Paciotti.

The designers say they went "darker" with "armorial" accents this season; along with the tight-fitting knit bondage dresses, the pieces fitted with studs, what looked like washers, and other assorted metallic elements organized in a pattern that reminded me of an art deco skyscraper, stood out.  Also of note: Alastair McKimm, who styled Alexander Wang last season and this season, also styled this show.
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>> Givenchy's couture revenue increased a whopping 80 percent last year — with another 20 percent increase forecasted for 2009 — and collections like this prove how it's done.  Mummy-wrapped shoes, rose petals covering both the runway and a print on two strappy bondage gowns, and a continued interest in chains, carried over from Fall 2008 ready-to-wear, carried forward the evolution of Riccardo Tisci's romantic gothic branding at the house.  And those veils — interestingly enough, the majority of Givenchy couture customers are based in the Middle East — so perhaps the head coverings were a nod to those ladies?  Catherine McNeil showed up sans the crutches than she was sporting earlier this month; All that was missing were two of the house's current faces — Mariacarla Boscono, Lakshmi Menon, where are you?
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>> The 2009 Vogue Paris calendar — which comes as a supplement to the December/January issue — arrived a little early.  Fourteen different girls are featured, photographed by Terry Richardson and styled by Carine Roitfeld as pinups in Louis Vuitton lingerie and shoes.  Jourdan Dunn is a sexy nurse, Ali Michael a sexy cheerleader, Eniko Mihalik graces the cover as sexy kitten — Carine even included a spread for the solar months, with patrons saints Alber (Elbaz), Gareth (Pugh), Lara (Stone), and their ilk celebrated.

Gallery is NSFW.
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>> Alexander Wang's sweat-inspired Spring 2009 collection, featuring shiny-faced models, was quite appropriate — yesterday had the fashion crowd dripping from heat, and today, Tropical Storm Hanna blew in just in time for Alex's show.

Not that the weather would keep anyone away; Anna Wintour attended Alex's show for the first time ever — a symbol of his quick rise. As the lights went down, the sunglasses went on, and she only broke pose a couple of times — once to consult Virginia Smith's program, and the other to fiddle with her BlackBerry.

The show was definitely a different experience, now that Alex has moved on from Erin Wasson, collaborating with stylist Alastair McKimm instead, but all of the classic Wang elements — zippers, leather, a slouchy, downtown feel — were all there. The only major slip up was at the end, when all the models — stellar cast, I might add (Jourdan Dunn!) — took their final tour and got stopped up returning backstage. We're talking line of models, basically at a standstill, at the end of the show. Alex skipped out, did his usual jump and punch the air routine. And then Anna ran out.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video on Elle.com.
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>> Although it's too soon to tell what kind of lasting impact the all-black issue of Vogue Italia might have, preliminary indications that it had an effect are there. 

Just this morning, Fashionista reported that Lancome signed VI model Arlenis Sosa Pena as their new face.  If true, she joins Daria Werbowy in what is sure to be a lucrative, high-profile position for the company — outstanding for a newcomer like Arlenis. 

More big news this morning for the July VI  flock: Topshop announced VI cover girl Jourdan Dunn, along with Karlie Kloss, Kori Richardson, and Amanda Laine, as their Fall 2008 campaign girls — another sure-to-be-well-paying, high-profile campaign (images below).

Finally, The Imagist recently reported that advertising clients are already asking casting agents to be more "inclusive" for their future ad campaigns, as a result of all the attention Vogue Italia has gotten.  The industry appears to be moving in the right direction, but only time will tell.  Now, how about some more attention for girls like Lakshmi Menon and Daul Kim?

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