fashionologie

Fall 2009: Not Just for 15-Year-Old Models

fashionologie — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 15:59:57 PST

>> New York Fashion Week is known as the springboard for new faces every season, but for Fall 2009, it's become the springboard for comebacks - especially with models right around the 30-year-old mark. This morning, Frankie Rayder (34), who hasn't hit a catwalk since the Fall 2004 with the exception of Spring 2009 Givenchy, walked Michael Kors. The runways of Preen, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, and Marc Jacobs have been especially overrun with these mainly late-'90s, early-00's faces - from those who have hovered in and out the past few seasons: Anne Catherine Lacroix (29), Natasa Vojnovic (29), Caroline Ribeiro (29), Jamie Bochert (28), Christina Kruse (34), Carmen Kass (30), Colette Pechekhonova (28), Hannelore Knuts (31); to those who have exited the runway for a while - Tasha Tilberg (29), Kirsten Owen (38), Trish Goff (32) - all are booking some of the most coveted spots this season. Kors, Behnaz Sarafpour, Staerk, VPL, and Diane von Furstenberg are feeling it too - the mature woman is back in New York.
*image: source

View Slideshow ›

Preen Fall 2009 Stars a Chubby, Two More Comeback Models

fashionologie — Sun, 15 Feb 2009 14:21:51 PST

>> There was an "icon revival" casting call this season, and so far, Trish Goff, Tasha Tilberg, Natasa Vojnovic, Christina Kruse, and Hannelore Knuts have all been circulating the runways; joining a couple of the aforementioned this morning at Preen: 38-year-old '90s androgynous icon Kirsten Owen and early-'00s Belgian face Anne Catherine Lacroix - who else will show up next?

Also making appearances at Preen - Kanye West, who was a no-show for his front row seat at United Bamboo yesterday morning, Anne Christensen's kids, who played with the clear plastic covering the runway before the show, and Sir Philip Green, who raised eyebrows yesterday at Alexander Wang and is in town for the big Topshop press conference tomorrow morning.

In addition to their stellar standby cut-out minidresses and pleated pants, Justin Thorton and Thea Bregazzi did some experimenting for Fall 2009 - a big, bold, houndstooth print appeared more than a couple of times, and there was a surprising set of candy-colored rainbow dresses toward the end. Pronounced shoulders, random patches of fur on jackets, bold metallics, and cut-out leggings emerged here in addition to other runways - those and structured, uneven hems - see Karlie Kloss's miniskirt; trends in the making? And for the showstopper: a seriously chubby pastel fur chubby, worn by Anja Rubik.
*image: source

View Slideshow ›

fashionologie — Wed, 04 Feb 2009 14:24:33 PST

>> THE MODELIZER -We've seen the rise of the supermodel the past couple of seasons, and now the '90s icons seem to be grabbing hold. Stella Tennant and Kirsten Owen posed for Marc Jacobs's campaign last season, Ana Claudia Michels is already experiencing a resurgence, and now Kirsten McMenamy is "freshly lodged at DNA," Jenny Shimizu found "a new home at Elite," and Rachel Williams is "looming on the horizon," - will we see them in New York? [The Imagist]

fashionologie — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 10:42:19 PDT

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —A couple of days after our first, albeit obscured, look at Stella Tennant for Marc Jacobs Fall 2008 comes another shot — and we can actually see her face! No sign of her campaign mate Kirsten Owen yet . . . [DNA Models]

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 14:44:36 PDT

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —Following up a season of flailing legs and boxed-up Victoria Beckham, Marc Jacobs is back with the models for Fall 2008. The full campaign features both Kirsten Owen and Stella Tennant, but in this first look, you wouldn't even know it was Stella, her head is so obscured. [TFS]

Gap Goes With Models, Awkward Photoshopping

fashionologie — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 14:58:17 PDT

»A Spring 2008 Gap ad features Chanel Iman, Julia Stegner, Coco Rocha, Du Juan, Vlada Roslyakova, Anja Rubik . . . and a shoddy Photoshop job [ONTD_FF]

»Is Lily Cole edging Kate Moss out at Rimmel? [The Cut]

»An unnamed male designer had a face-lift gone wrong last year [Page Six]

»Models had to practice walking on a simulated dirt runway before doing Givenchy Fall 2008 couture [Style.com]

»A first look at Heidi Mount in Bally's Fall 2008 campaign [FWD]

»Meredith Melling Burke wears a mustache! [Fashionista]

»The full Richard Chai for Target collection [FabSugar]

»Roberto Cavalli: Taking his company off the market [The Cut]

»Calvin Klein may be using Kirsten Owen, Guinevere van Seenus, and Agyness Deyn in a new CK One campaign [Fashionista]

»Full Givenchy and Loewe Resort 2009 collections [Style.com, Style.com]

fashionologie — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 11:37:15 PDT

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL — In a time when everyone seems to be focused on black and white, let's take a moment for Lakshmi Menon. The Bangalorean model appeared in the beautiful Spring 2008 Hermes ads, opened the Givenchy couture show yesterday, and is appearing in the Fall 2008 Givenchy campaign along with Kirsten Owen, Natasha Poly, and Givenchy faves Lara Stone and Mariacarla Boscono. [Vogue UK, Models.com]

Marc Jacobs' Fall Campaign Models Revealed

fashionologie — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 10:58:39 PDT

>> As promised, Marc Jacobs decided to go with models for his Fall 2008 campaign after a whirlwind tour of Victoria Beckham in bag, Victoria Beckham in box, et al. for Spring. Taking over the reins are veterans Kirsten Owen and Stella Tennant (who is perfect for the collection, with her punk edge), carrying on the seasons' trend for using well-established models over the age of 30 — both ladies are 38.

*images: source

Marc Jacobs on His "Great Talent" and Trying to Top the Last Louis Vuitton Show

fashionologie — Wed, 01 Jun 2011 14:54:00 PDT

>> In anticipation of his Lifetime Achievement Award, which he will receive during the CFDA Awards Monday, Marc Jacobs (who notes of the award, "It’s not my achievement, number one. It is Marc Jacobs as a company") sat down with WWD to wax philosophical on everything from Alexander Wang to Twitter to whether he considers himself a "great talent."

Highlights from the interview, below.

On what he did for Memorial Day: “Memorial Day? I don’t think I’ve had a Memorial Day off in 30 years. We’re all here [at the office]. The design team’s here, working through Saturday, Sunday, Monday. I’ll go to the gym every morning, but I’ll be here after the gym. It’s resort.”

On his success and being recognized in public and approached by fans: "I can’t help but remember the days when Robert [Duffy, his business partner] and I were interviewed for 48 Hours [in 1988]. Robert was building a runway. I’m vomiting in the bathroom because we hadn’t slept in three days and we were delirious and hallucinating. So none of that ever goes away."

On whether he's a "great talent": "No. I still wouldn’t say I am ... I don’t mind if you say it but I’m not going to say it myself."

On winning this year's CFDA Lifetime Achievement award: "I haven’t even sat down to write the [CFDA] speech yet but I’ve been thinking a lot about it, about what does this mean to me and what does this mean to us. I just turned 48 but I don’t feel 48. I still feel like a young person but I really see the difference in the work. I’m trying to understand what all of that means and how I feel about it."

On younger designers: "People ask me about the younger designers, Alex Wang and all of them, I think they’re great. I couldn’t do what they do. It’s not what I do. But just like in pop music and in the art world, people always want new work from the artist that they like but they also want new artists. I don’t think one changes the other. There’s always room for new designers, new musicians, new artists, new writers. Madonna, I don’t think is showing any signs of slowing down, but that doesn’t mean Lady Gaga isn’t taking over the world."

On the most recent Louis Vuitton show: "I loved the Vuitton show. I think as a show it was probably my favorite presentation we’ve ever done of a collection. I really loved it ... I’ve spent the past two weeks, which is superpremature, thinking that I don’t know what we’re going to do to top that last Vuitton show. I thought it was the most beautiful presentation. I think, 'Why am I doing this to myself?' but it’s inevitable. When I get back to Paris two weeks from now, I’m just going to be like, 'What are we going to do? What are we going to do?' The answer won’t come right away."

On designers he admires: "I think the greatest contributors to fashion are women. Chanel, Vionnet. I think Vivienne Westwood; I think Miuccia Prada; Schiaparelli, Rei Kawakubo ... The one that I probably feel the most strongly about is Miuccia, because of the aesthetic and the mood. There’s something so shocking and so tender about it, and it’s also very real ... There’s an eccentricity but there’s also a chic old world sophistication, but it’s so new. It’s young but never vulgar. There’s a sex appeal that’s kind of naïve. It’s all the things I love."

On his debt to Tom Ford: "I felt that [being hired for Vuitton] was all born from Tom [Ford’s] success at Gucci. I believe Mr. Arnault was aware of that and said, 'We can do that with Vuitton.'"

On working for Bernard Arnault: "I meet with Mr. Arnault every time I’m in Paris. He’s such a hands-on sort of guy. He goes to every store in every country and he discusses things with me ... He was thrilled with the last [Vuitton] show. He felt that one and the one around the fountain were how he would like women to see Vuitton’s image as a fashion brand. He’s very up front and honest with me about what he likes and what he doesn’t like, what he thinks works and also what he thinks works in other places. Not that he’s asking me to do what someone else does, but to look at the success of certain things."

On the resources available to him at Louis Vuitton: "If you look at our first Vuitton show, we wanted to send out a nice collection of simple clothes with all the logos on the inside and one single bag on Kirsten Owen. It has evolved into, ‘OK, this is Paris. Let’s have three elevators.’ I asked for six; I got three. So we’re like, ‘Let’s get Kate Moss, Naomi [Campbell]. Let’s fly in Stella [Tennant]. Let’s fly in Carolyn [Murphy] and Amber [Valletta].’ You want a show? Okay guys, I’ll give you a show."

On critics: "You are dealing with a whole lot of highly sensitive people who [will react] depending on their mood and how they’re feeling that day or what they did or didn’t eat for lunch. I have no problem going on record with this and probably have gone on record with this before, there aren’t that many people who I respect. There just aren’t. I think journalists have the right to their opinions but I think their opinions should be based on history and what they see, not what they feel, how long they’ve been waiting or whether it’s raining or it’s snowing or whatever."

On whether traditional media matters anymore: "I’m not sure it does as much as it used to, and I’m not sure how much it ever did ... [But] I feel like it affects the energy of all of us. In fashion we all gossip about it because within our community it’s extremely important. I think it breaks momentum or a sort of energy when there’s harsh criticism, and I think when the critique is positive, we all feel quite robust and we’re out there. In that way, it has an effect. But in another, I think a woman’s going to go into a shop to find a coat or a jacket and I just don’t think she’s not going to go into a shop because of a bad review she probably didn’t even read."

On joining Twitter: "I’ve got better things to do. I don’t need to talk to like schoolteachers from New Jersey about what was valid [in a collection] and what was invalid and what was derivative and what was referencing. I mean, I’ve just got work to do. I really don’t care to argue with you."

Dree Hemingway Styles For i-D Spring 2010 Issue

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 11:56:54 PDT

>> Out March 25, i-D's Spring 2010 issue is covered by Natalia Vodianova (shot by Paolo Roversi), Sasha Pivovorara, and Freja Beha Erichsen (both shot by Emma Summerton). The "Home Is Where The Heart Is"-themed issue features Dree Hemingway in her first self-styled shoot, located at her great-grandfather Ernest Hemingway's home; a special of Melanie Laurent photographed in the private Balenciaga atelier; plus profiles of Dree, Natalia, Freja, Tanga Moreau, Mariacarla Boscono, Isabeli Fontana, Alla Kostromicheva, Kirsten Owen, and Abbey Lee Kershaw. Also on the radar for the magazine: a newly-revamped website, expected to launch in May.

View Slideshow ›