fashionologie

Rodarte Spring 2009: Making It Big

fashionologie — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 21:48:52 -0700

>> When Natalie Portman comes to the show, Keira Knightley hits up the after party, and Anna Wintour brings Bee - who usually only goes to Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler - along, you know Rodarte is really starting to make it big. Even Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani, had a little trouble getting in - apparently, she tried to follow Anna and Bee through the velvet rope, but the PR staff wouldn't allow it.

Onto the clothes: They followed the same thought process as the Fall 2008 collection, but with a few key changes - the colors, the shoes (those treacherous shoes, made by Nicholas Kirkwood instead of Christian Louboutin this season), and the leggings, which were leather instead of knit, and although they looked laser cut, were entirely handmade. Some think the look veered into Balenciaga territory, but me? I'm just enjoying the view.
*image: source

Proenza Schouler Takes Dellal Downtown for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 22:38:51 -0700

>> Alice Dellal may have been a special guest at Alexander Wang, but she was there in spirit at Proenza Schouler - the sideswept wavy hair, red lip, leathers, zippers, and crop tops shown were all reminiscent of her look. She may have been a starting point, but the collection had a downtown refinement that you would never seen in Alice - she revels too much in the grunge. All I have to say is: So many fun, billowy jumpsuits, so little time. And don't forget to check out the accessories - they're part of Jack and Lazaro's first full season effort.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
*image: source

Preen: Pregnant with Pretty for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Sun, 07 Sep 2008 23:27:57 -0700

>> It's hard to imagine being pregnant and designing hot little minidresses for other women to wear, but when you're Thea Bregazzi, one half of design duo Preen, and those hot little minidresses happen to be what your label is known for, that's just what you do.

The heavily expectant Thea stayed across the pond in London while her partner in design and life, Justin Thornton, carried on with the label's show today. He carried it well - everything went smoothly, save a slight wardrobe malfunction for Anja Rubik and the confusion that ensued at the end of the show, when Justin didn't appear at the end of the runway and no one knew when to start the final applause.

As for the clothes, the dresses with intricate paneled cutouts and peekaboo zipper slats, the piquante shots of tomato red, and the sexily laced up pleated skinny pants came together for a more refined collection than we have seen from Preen in the last couple of seasons. Maybe Thea should be pregnant more often . . .
*image: source

Alexander Wang: Now Anna Wintour-Approved

fashionologie — Sun, 07 Sep 2008 00:17:46 -0700

>> Alexander Wang's sweat-inspired Spring 2009 collection, featuring shiny-faced models, was quite appropriate - yesterday had the fashion crowd dripping from heat, and today, Tropical Storm Hanna blew in just in time for Alex's show.

Not that the weather would keep anyone away; Anna Wintour attended Alex's show for the first time ever - a symbol of his quick rise. As the lights went down, the sunglasses went on, and she only broke pose a couple of times - once to consult Virginia Smith's program, and the other to fiddle with her BlackBerry.

The show was definitely a different experience, now that Alex has moved on from Erin Wasson, collaborating with stylist Alastair McKimm instead, but all of the classic Wang elements - zippers, leather, a slouchy, downtown feel - were all there. The only major slip up was at the end, when all the models - stellar cast, I might add (Jourdan Dunn!) - took their final tour and got stopped up returning backstage. We're talking line of models, basically at a standstill, at the end of the show. Alex skipped out, did his usual jump and punch the air routine. And then Anna ran out.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video on Elle.com.
*image: source

Rag & Bone Goes Rock & Roll for Spring 2009

fashionologie — Fri, 05 Sep 2008 23:46:18 -0700

>> Take working-class fashion, add a pinch of Joy Division, and you've got the inspiration David Neville and Marcus Wainwright were drawing on for their Spring 2009 collection. The Rag & Bone show changed venues this season from the upscale Cipriani to the more hard-edged Pier 94 - a change from polished to slightly edgy that you could also say was reflected in the clothes.

Black wraparound leather belts with threateningly sharp silver spikes accented so many of the looks, and are sure to be a must-have - but even the typical Rag & Bone tweedy suits were rock-n-rolled up with a leather mini, like Julia Dunstall's closing look, or a silvery silk sheen, like Jessica Stam's blazer.

The model cast was full of high notes - stalwarts like opener Sasha Pivovarova or Coco Rocha - and the coveted new girls like Aline Weber and Liu Wen. Arlenis Pena was there too: she's had a big day, between being named as the new face of Lancome and slipping up at BCBG this morning.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
*image: source, source

Frida Giannini Taps Into the Rachel Zoe Style Rules for Gucci Resort 2009

fashionologie — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 10:39:31 -0700

>> If Frida Giannini is aiming for her Gucci customer to be one Rachel Zoe, nothing says it stronger than the flowy printed maxi dresses and one-shouldered bohemian blouses that she sent out as Gucci's Resort 2009 collection.

Shown in Rome to celebrate the brand's 70th anniversary and a re-opening flagship, the collection will surely please those who hanker for a Hermes scarf-like minidress or a pair of fringed espadrille wedges. Guests who were left waiting for their rides to the show venue, however, were less impressed, remarking that if Tom Ford were still at Gucci, the cars wouldn't have been late, and the drivers would have been handsome and topless . . .

A video of the show can be seen here.
*image: source, source

Cathy Horyn Could Have Been More Impressed By Couture Week

fashionologie — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 15:32:36 -0700

»Cathy Horyn thought this couture season was "a little weak" [On the Runway]

»Emmanuelle Alt sighting at Givenchy! [FWD]

»Freja Beha Erichsen went to Stockholm Fashion Week rather than couture, Agyness Deyn stayed in New York [Fashionista, PopSugar UK]

»Georgina Stojiljkovic had a little trouble navigating the dress she closed Christian Dior couture in [BryanBoy]

»Morgane Dubled was surprised, and embarrassed, by a birthday cake at the Lacoste party last night [Style File]

»Contrary to previous reports, the July Vogue Italia won't be out until Friday in Italy, next week elsewhere [Fashionista]

»Rag & Bone, in sync: Marcus Wainwright and David Neville had sons just a week apart from one another [The Fashion Informer]

»Another shot of Linda Evangelista for Prada [DNA Models]

»First looks at Iselin Steiro and Natasa Vojnovic for Mulberry, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Agnete Hegelund for Calvin Klein Jeans, Raquel Zimmermann for Fendi, and Kim Noorda for Bottega Veneta [TFS, TFS, DNA Models, DNA Models]

»Christian Lacroix couture video [Telegraph UK]

Alessandra Facchinetti Tries Her Hand at Valentino Couture for Fall 2008

fashionologie — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 13:22:06 -0700

>> Alessandra Facchinetti's first couture collection at Valentino represents a nerve-racking, generational hand-off, but Giorgio Armani was there in the front row to lend support and represent the old guard.

The collection had the palpable feel of a different designer, as it should — more structure and pared-down tailoring, with most of the detail left to the back of the garments, and more subdued colors than the pastels Valentino had been playing with. However, Alessandra did stay true to the three most guiding parts of the Valentino aesthetic: femininity, ruffles, and of course, Valentino red. In fact, that same Valentino red painted the final look of the collection — a stunning chiffon number.

*image: source

Riccardo Tisci Readies For a Vacation with Givenchy Fall 2008 Couture

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 22:38:55 -0700

>> Riccardo Tisci is taking a trip to Peru in August, and his anticipation birthed the Incan prints and alpaca blanket stripes that pepper his latest couture collection for Givenchy.

Highlighter shades of fuchsia and violet provided shocking punctuation amongst Tisci's usual color palette of neutrals. The emerging trends of knee-length leggings, transparency, and lace were all present along with the signature Tisci for Givenchy leather jackets and oversized hats. But I have to say, amongst all the draped jersey and deconstructed shapes, the two standout looks were similar pale, choppily-fringed minidresses.

*image: source

Christian Lacroix Bugs Out for Fall 2008 Couture

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 14:38:14 -0700

>> Usually Christian Lacroix's designs are a little too overwrought to speak to me, but something about this set sits just right.

Maybe the scarlet backdrop is to blame, setting off all the intricate detailing with its vivid hue: the peekaboo lace sleeves, the bell-shaped cocktail dresses, the gossamer tufts; or maybe I've just gone buggy for Lacroix's insect-inspired fantasy world. If so, I'm not the only one: the attendees showered the designer with carnations at the end of the show.

*image: source