fashionologie

Spring 2010 Campaign Scuttlebutt: Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, and Celine

fashionologie — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 08:49:15 -0700

>> Spring 2010 may be a "safe" campaign season in the making, but not all designers are afraid to change things up. Word is up-and-coming photographer Josh Olins has breached the usually ad-shooting group of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, David Sims, Steven Meisel, and Steven Klein, nabbing the Spring 2010 Giorgio Armani campaign as his own. And it's rumored Juergen Teller won't just be exclusive to Marc Jacobs image-making this season: apparently he's helping Phoebe Philo curate the new Celine image by photographing newcomer Valerija Kelava and Carmen Kass for her first ads for the brand.

As for Stefano Pilati, it sounds like he's sticking to his winning supermodel-Inez and Vinoodh formula, going on six seasons strong. Natalia Vodianova, WWD reports, is said to be next up.

Juergen Teller's Only Marc Jacobs Ad-Related Controversies Both Came Courtesy of Vogue

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 17:14:27 -0700

>> Juergen Teller has regular work in Vogue UK, Vogue Paris, and of course W - but it's difficult to recall the last time he was published in Vogue (besides his ad work for Marc Jacobs). A quick search turns up a Vogue editorial with Christy Turlington - but dated 1994. His comments to The Moment about which of his ad series for Marc Jacobs were most controversial may provide clues as to why:

Funnily enough the most complaints were about the series with Dick Page and James Gibbs because they are a gay couple. Men’s Vogue even refused to publish it. Dick is a very close friend of mine and I’ve known him for 20 years - he’s been part of the Marc family for 20 years. And I like the idea of having a gay couple in a men’s ad because it makes sense. And I wanted the ads to be like they are - very romantic, tender and sweet. I certainly didn’t want to have anything provocative, not at all. The only other controversy that comes to mind also involved Vogue - the women’s one - over an ad of a clothed Cindy Sherman and me in which I am grabbing her breasts. That caused a stir. Go figure.

Although many suspected the Spring 2007 set with then 12-year-old Dakota Fanning would have caused Teller trouble, he says not so: "The Dakota ones caused nothing, and they are pretty hard-core. They are on the border of being too much, even for me. I don’t remember hearing much about it, but if there was any controversy it was very under the radar."

The Last Two POP Covers for Dasha Zhukova's First Issue, Plus More Inside Details

fashionologie — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 13:17:07 -0700

>> The first issue of POP under Dasha Zhukova's guiding hand hits newsstands tomorrow at $8, with two international newsstand covers, each with a 50/50 split run, of Style Rookie's Tavi, plus a 500-copy limited-edition hardback cover by Ed Ruscha (below, left), and a limited subscriber's cover of Cicciolina for the Baltic States (below, right).

“The new Pop launches at an exciting turning point in fashion, where the possibilities and potential for creativity are almost overwhelming,” Zhukova told WWD. “The new era is more fluid than ever before; one where teenage girls in Chicago, fashion editors in Paris, street photographers from Berlin and bloggers everywhere . . . redefine the fashion landscape.”

Fake Karl, Jen Brill, and Mark Borthwick are all involved »

New York Fashion Week Tidbits: Juergen Teller To Make an Appearance, Zac Posen Explains Venue Change

fashionologie — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:49:30 -0700

>> New York Fashion Week is a little less than two weeks away, and the tidbits are flowing freely - a compilation of the highlights from the past couple of days:

Juergen Teller is meeting Cathy Horyn for a free, open to the public, discussion about his work at New York's Visual Arts Theater Sept. 12, 7 pm [On the Runway]

Zac Posen explains his move from the big Tent at Bryant Park to a smaller Altman Building show for 400: “For this collection, an intimacy between model, clothing and audience could only be achieved in a smaller space. I really enjoyed the experience of a more intimate show after Pre-Fall 2009, followed by our successful Resort 2010, which was held at my downtown atelier." [WWD]

Who's Kate Lanphear styling? »

First POP Cover Under Dasha Zhukova Leaks; Zhukova May Be Pregnant

fashionologie — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 11:42:09 -0700

UPDATE: The cover has been removed.

>> The first POP cover under Dasha Zhukova for Fall/Winter 2009, featuring 13-year-old blogger Tavi from Style Rookie in artwork by Damien Hirst, is said to be the image at right. Hirst's participation marks Dasha's push to make the magazine reach further than just the fashion world as it had primarily in the past; her goal when first appointed editor in February was to "provide a broader point of view focusing also on art, contemporary culture and the globalisation of all things pop-related."

We've had a blurry peak at one of the magazine's editorials inside; the cover also boasts a contribution by Juergen Teller, a M/M Paris "bookzine," a 25-year tribute to Naomi Campbell, and "a stem-cell research celebration by Rodarte." If Tavi is indeed on the cover, it's worth noting that a couple of weeks ago, a preview from LOVE's upcoming issue circulated featuring Tavi - ironic that her first two major magazine appearances happen to be in Katie Grand's former magazine (POP), and her current magazine (LOVE).

On a more personal front: last month, Dasha Zhukova's relationship with billionaire Roman Abramovich was said to be over, and now she's being surrounded by pregnancy rumors.

Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 Ads Are One Big Acid-Washed Party

fashionologie — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 11:18:41 -0700

>> Nothing's going to beat the Fall 2009 Marc Jacobs ad with Natasa Vojnovic leaning out of a brick building, but her campaign compatriots - Ajuma Nasenyana, Olga Sherer, Kamila Filipcikova, and Irina Kulikova - put up a good fight in this acid-washed full set, which was photographed by Juergen Teller back at the end of April.

Juerger Teller Loves Wearing Short Satin Shorts Thanks to a Marc Jacobs Campaign

fashionologie — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 17:44:36 -0700

>> Juergen Teller wore an oversized white T-shirt and super-short blue satin shorts edged with white piping for a recent interview with the Independent - a practice he apparently picked up on the set of the Spring 2004 Marc Jacobs campaign shoot he did with Charlotte Rampling: "I got to Paris, and to my complete horror I couldn't fit into any of the clothes. I was too fat." Juergen had chosen to shot himself for Jacobs's menswear that season, but the only piece he could fit into was a pair of silver satin shorts. The decision was made, and supposedly, he's worn the style religiously since.

Photographing "dead things" and being "frightened" by Winona Ryder »

Marc Jacobs Doesn't Design Louis Vuitton Cruise, But Encourages Leaning Out of Buildings in His Fall 2009 Ads

fashionologie — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 15:23:41 -0700

>> The Louis Vuitton Cruise 2010 we saw last week was the work of new Vuitton design director Julie de Libran, who has taken Peter Copping's place now that he's heading up Nina Ricci; apparently for some time now, Marc Jacobs has entrusted Resort designing to one of his lieutenants.

Meanwhile, the Fall 2009 ads for his namesake label are starting to appear; one with Natasa Vojnovic leaning out of a building precariously, and another a collage of portraits of Natasa, Ajuma Nasenyana, and Kamila Filipcikova. Irina Kulikova and Olga Sherer are also supposed to appear in the Juergen Teller-lensed set.

Alber Elbaz Brings Out His Jokes for London Lanvin Opening

fashionologie — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 11:34:19 -0700

>> In honor of Lanvin's first London store, Alber Elbaz - who is apparently on a post-show, protein-only diet - flew in to give a guided tour of his Spring 2009 collection. During the day, there was a "girls only" policy, but at night, the ladies - Alexandra Shulman, Yasmin Le Bon, Anouck Lepere - were joined by the menfolk - Jefferson Hack, Juergen Teller, Jonathan Newhouse. Microphone in hand, Elbaz had the audience "in stitches," according to WWD, as he cracked jokes while presenting: “I dress women. I don’t undress them - unfortunately. My mother would be happy if I did.”

As for his denim collaboration with Acne: “It’s so nice when Acne tells me, ‘No problem, we can do that.’ I live in Paris, where you ask a cab driver to take you somewhere and he says ‘No.’” When he introduced Anna de Rijk, hot off the runway, as his bride, he joked on his decision to carry wedding dress in the store: “I have friends - Liz Taylor types - who are on their third and fourth weddings. They tell me they need a different dress for each one.” And to wrap it up, a little comment on what women want: “Next to chocolate or a rose, I think the only thing that can make a woman happy is maybe a pink dress.”
*image: source

fashionologie — Tue, 03 Feb 2009 16:22:52 -0800

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL -For the Spring 2009 season, Ryan McGinley did a little ad work - both in front of and behind the camera. He took Angela Lindvall and Kate Moss down to Puerto Rico to produce Stella McCartney's watercolor-infused campaign, and then posed for Marc Jacobs lensmen Juergen Teller in a bathtub, shoe propped on his knee, as the label's Spring 2009 face (click through for image). [Models.com]