>> Spring 2010 may be a "safe" campaign season in the making, but not all designers are afraid to change things up. Word is up-and-coming photographer Josh Olins has breached the usually ad-shooting group of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, David Sims, Steven Meisel, and Steven Klein, nabbing the Spring 2010 Giorgio Armani campaign as his own. And it's rumored Juergen Teller won't just be exclusive to Marc Jacobs image-making this season: apparently he's helping Phoebe Philo curate the new Celine image by photographing newcomer Valerija Kelava and Carmen Kass for her first ads for the brand.

As for Stefano Pilati, it sounds like he's sticking to his winning supermodel-Inez and Vinoodh formula, going on six seasons strong. Natalia Vodianova, WWD reports, is said to be next up.

>> Juergen Teller has regular work in Vogue UK, Vogue Paris, and of course W — but it's difficult to recall the last time he was published in Vogue (besides his ad work for Marc Jacobs).  A quick search turns up a Vogue editorial with Christy Turlington — but dated 1994.  His comments to The Moment about which of his ad series for Marc Jacobs were most controversial may provide clues as to why:

Funnily enough the most complaints were about the series with Dick Page and James Gibbs because they are a gay couple. Men’s Vogue even refused to publish it. Dick is a very close friend of mine and I’ve known him for 20 years — he’s been part of the Marc family for 20 years. And I like the idea of having a gay couple in a men’s ad because it makes sense. And I wanted the ads to be like they are — very romantic, tender and sweet. I certainly didn’t want to have anything provocative, not at all. The only other controversy that comes to mind also involved Vogue — the women’s one — over an ad of a clothed Cindy Sherman and me in which I am grabbing her breasts. That caused a stir. Go figure.

Although many suspected the Spring 2007 set with then 12-year-old Dakota Fanning would have caused Teller trouble, he says not so: "The Dakota ones caused nothing, and they are pretty hard-core. They are on the border of being too much, even for me. I don’t remember hearing much about it, but if there was any controversy it was very under the radar."

>> The first issue of POP under Dasha Zhukova's guiding hand hits newsstands tomorrow at $8, with two international newsstand covers, each with a 50/50 split run, of Style Rookie's Tavi, plus a 500-copy limited-edition hardback cover by Ed Ruscha (below, left), and a limited subscriber's cover of Cicciolina for the Baltic States (below, right).

“The new Pop launches at an exciting turning point in fashion, where the possibilities and potential for creativity are almost overwhelming,” Zhukova told WWD. “The new era is more fluid than ever before; one where teenage girls in Chicago, fashion editors in Paris, street photographers from Berlin and bloggers everywhere . . . redefine the fashion landscape.”

Fake Karl, Jen Brill, and Mark Borthwick are all involved »

>> New York Fashion Week is a little less than two weeks away, and the tidbits are flowing freely — a compilation of the highlights from the past couple of days:

• Juergen Teller is meeting Cathy Horyn for a free, open to the public, discussion about his work at New York's Visual Arts Theater Sept. 12, 7 pm [On the Runway]


• Zac Posen explains his move from the big Tent at Bryant Park to a smaller Altman Building show for 400: “For this collection, an intimacy between model, clothing and audience could only be achieved in a smaller space. I really enjoyed the experience of a more intimate show after Pre-Fall 2009, followed by our successful Resort 2010, which was held at my downtown atelier." [WWD]

Who's Kate Lanphear styling? »

UPDATE: The cover has been removed.

>> The first POP cover under Dasha Zhukova for Fall/Winter 2009, featuring 13-year-old blogger Tavi from Style Rookie in artwork by Damien Hirst, is said to be the image at right.  Hirst's participation marks Dasha's push to make the magazine reach further than just the fashion world as it had primarily in the past; her goal when first appointed editor in February was to "provide a broader point of view focusing also on art, contemporary culture and the globalisation of all things pop-related."

We've had a blurry peak at one of the magazine's editorials inside; the cover also boasts a contribution by Juergen Teller, a M/M Paris "bookzine," a 25-year tribute to Naomi Campbell, and "a stem-cell research celebration by Rodarte."  If Tavi is indeed on the cover, it's worth noting that a couple of weeks ago, a preview from LOVE's upcoming issue circulated featuring Tavi — ironic that her first two major magazine appearances happen to be in Katie Grand's former magazine (POP), and her current magazine (LOVE).

On a more personal front: last month, Dasha Zhukova's relationship with billionaire Roman Abramovich was said to be over, and now she's being surrounded by pregnancy rumors.

>> Juergen Teller wore an oversized white T-shirt and super-short blue satin shorts edged with white piping for a recent interview with the Independent — a practice he apparently picked up on the set of the Spring 2004 Marc Jacobs campaign shoot he did with Charlotte Rampling: "I got to Paris, and to my complete horror I couldn't fit into any of the clothes. I was too fat."  Juergen had chosen to shot himself for Jacobs's menswear that season, but the only piece he could fit into was a pair of silver satin shorts.  The decision was made, and supposedly, he's worn the style religiously since.

Photographing "dead things" and being "frightened" by Winona Ryder »

>> ON THE CAMPAIGN TRAIL —For the Spring 2009 season, Ryan McGinley did a little ad work — both in front of and behind the camera.  He took Angela Lindvall and Kate Moss down to Puerto Rico to produce Stella McCartney's watercolor-infused campaign, and then posed for Marc Jacobs lensmen Juergen Teller in a bathtub, shoe propped on his knee, as the label's Spring 2009 face (click through for image). [Models.com]