fashionologie

Carine Roitfeld on Anna Wintour, Drugs, Boring Fashion Shows, and Her Upcoming Book with Karl Lagerfeld

fashionologie — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 14:16:21 PDT

>> Carine Roitfeld is enjoying her new status as a free agent. While meeting with an interviewer from Spiegel, for instance, she was told that she looked "remarkably normal" (She showed up in a "no-name" T-shirt from Los Angeles, Current/Elliott corduroy jeans, and satin shoes that she had custom-made in violet.). Roitfeld's reply? "That's part of my newfound freedom. I always wore a tight skirt at Vogue; it was like a uniform." And the former editor already has plenty of new projects in the works - the Fall 2011 Chanel campaign, consulting work for Barneys, her biographical retrospective book with Olivier Zahm that comes out in October - plus, she mentions that she's working on "a book with Karl Lagerfeld," and adds, "Who knows? Perhaps I'll become a muse for designers again."

Needless to say, there's been no second-guessing her decision to leave Vogue Paris: "[It was] the perfect moment. The French edition of Vogue had never been more successful, had never had more readers or advertisers. And it had never made as much money. For 10 years, my American publisher, Jonathan Newhouse, let me do what I wanted, even when he thought it might be crazy. But it couldn't have gone on for much longer."

A few more highlights from the interview, below.

On editing Vogue Paris and the current state of the industry: "For 10 years, it was a hell of a lot of fun. But, toward the end, it unfortunately got less and less fun. You used to be able to be more playful, but now it's all about money, results and big business. The pret-a-porter shows have become terribly serious. The atmosphere isn't as electric as it once was, and they now have about as much charm as a medical conference. But it takes just one good fashion show to get things exciting again . . . Creativity needs space and a willingness to take risks, but businessmen don't like risk. What's more, designers are coming under more and more pressure. Today, a dress can't just please the women in Paris; it also has to please those in Beijing, Tokyo, Moscow and New York."

On the frequency of drug use in the industry: "My only drug is a small glass of vodka in the evening, if that's what you're asking . . . [Drugs are used in fashion] no more and no less than they are in other artistic circles. Yves Saint Laurent was the first person to openly admit to being a drug addict. Since I never touched drugs myself, I find it hard to tell whether people are taking them. But, of course, some people do. The industry has become faster and faster. People are constantly fighting jet lag and working through the night."

On the rumors of her succeeding Anna Wintour at Vogue: "That was never seriously under discussion. I like to provoke. I'm very French. In America, they're not even allowed to show a hint of nipple in photos. Anna Wintour is the most powerful woman in the global fashion industry, the first lady of fashion. She's a politician; I'm a stylist. They are two very different jobs. Incidentally, despite all the rumors, she is actually very nice."

On the John Galliano scandal: "I had no idea how unhappy John Galliano must have been. You have to be very unhappy and lonely to praise Hitler in public while completely drunk. The House of Dior has always addressed a range of topics, for example, by having haute couture shows on homelessness where all the models look like people living on the street. But drunkenly shouting 'I love Hitler' and calling people in a bar a 'dirty Jew-face' is unacceptable. I don't think he really believes what he said; they were simply the actions of a drunk."

Carine Roitfeld Stepping Down From Vogue Paris in January

fashionologie — Fri, 17 Dec 2010 09:26:21 PST

>> After 10 years at the helm of Vogue Paris, Carine Roitfeld has resigned from the magazine, opting to focus on personal projects. “It’s 10 years that I’m editor of the magazine,” Roitfeld told Cathy Horyn over the phone. “I think it’s time to do something different.”

She informed Jonathan Newhouse, CEO of Conde Nast International, of her decision, she says: “I have no problem with Jonathan, and he understood me very well. Newhouse, for his part, released a statement to Vogue UK: "It is impossible to overstate Carine's powerful contribution to Vogue and to the fields of fashion and magazine publishing. Under her direction,Vogue Paris received record levels of circulation, advertising and editorial success. Vogue Paris has established itself as one of the most iconic magazines in the world, with huge influence in the field of fashion and photography. Carine herself has become widely known as a beacon of style, fulfilling the role with charm and graciousness. She has become a giant in her profession. Carine will be deeply missed. I am extremely grateful to her for what she has achieved."

She plans to depart at the end of January, and expects to complete issues through March. Of her time at the magazine, she added: “I had so much freedom to do everything I wanted. I think I did a good job." However: "When everything is good, maybe I think it’s the time to do something else.” As for her future plans (could working with Tom Ford once again be in the mix?): “I have no plan at all.” Her replacement - some are already speculating former Vogue Russia editor Aliona Doletskaya or Vogue Paris fashion director Emmanuelle Alt - will be announced in coming weeks.

Aliona Doletskaya Resigns from Vogue Russia, Is Replaced By Tatler Russia Editor-in-Chief

fashionologie — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:08:50 PDT

>> Founding Vogue Russia editor-in-chief Aliona Doletskaya, once rumored to be a candidate for Anna Wintour's job, resigned from the magazine yesterday after 12 years.

In a memo notifying staffers, Conde Nast International president Jonathan Newhouse wrote: “Some time ago, Aliona Doletskaya told me that she would like to leave the Vogue Russia editor-in-chief’s post, which she has occupied for almost 13 years, and start a new life, probably to write a book or try her hand in a new field. As Russia-as well as the rest of the world-was still going through economically hard times, I asked Aliona to wait for a better time to do this. Now, it’s obvious that we are coming out of the crisis, thus I don’t want to interfere with Aliona’s plans anymore. I accept her decision to leave the magazine with great sorrow.”

She already has a successor »

Marc Jacobs Sings Backup for Donna Summer, Talks Hair Transplant at Louis Vuitton Store Opening

fashionologie — Wed, 26 May 2010 14:37:36 PDT

>> Marc Jacobs has taken the stage for many a reason in the past - usually it involves accepting an award - but last night, it was to sing backup to Donna Summer at the opening of Louis Vuitton's new store on Bond Street in London. “It was fun - but I think I’ll stick to my day job,” he quipped.

Jacobs celebrated with the likes of Stella Tennant, Bernard Arnault, Carine Roitfeld, and Natalia Vodianova, and opened up about his recent hair transplant, which had him avoiding press and cameras at the Costume Institute Gala earlier this month. "I was starting to thin on top. I can’t dye it for a while, so this is my natural colour.”

He also hinted that the Louis Vuitton logo that he has helped make so ubiquitous almost got squelched way back when he first started at the brand: "When I arrived at Louis Vuitton 12 years ago, and I was figuring out how to create a new tier of Vuitton for a different customer, I thought it would be clever to hide that monogram, which was very stupid of me. That logo is part of what makes the Vuitton so desirable. It allows people to become members of an aspirational club."

Logos are to be expected, but not Louis Vuitton couture - Jacobs says he has no desire to launch such a collection. “Some of what we already do at ready-to-wear is pretty much at couture level, anyway."

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Alber Elbaz Brings Out His Jokes for London Lanvin Opening

fashionologie — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 11:34:19 PDT

>> In honor of Lanvin's first London store, Alber Elbaz - who is apparently on a post-show, protein-only diet - flew in to give a guided tour of his Spring 2009 collection. During the day, there was a "girls only" policy, but at night, the ladies - Alexandra Shulman, Yasmin Le Bon, Anouck Lepere - were joined by the menfolk - Jefferson Hack, Juergen Teller, Jonathan Newhouse. Microphone in hand, Elbaz had the audience "in stitches," according to WWD, as he cracked jokes while presenting: “I dress women. I don’t undress them - unfortunately. My mother would be happy if I did.”

As for his denim collaboration with Acne: “It’s so nice when Acne tells me, ‘No problem, we can do that.’ I live in Paris, where you ask a cab driver to take you somewhere and he says ‘No.’” When he introduced Anna de Rijk, hot off the runway, as his bride, he joked on his decision to carry wedding dress in the store: “I have friends - Liz Taylor types - who are on their third and fourth weddings. They tell me they need a different dress for each one.” And to wrap it up, a little comment on what women want: “Next to chocolate or a rose, I think the only thing that can make a woman happy is maybe a pink dress.”
*image: source

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News: Ingrid Sischy And Sandra Brant Named International Editors Of German And Russian Vogues

coutorture — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 12:04:20 PDT

Looks like Ingrid Sischy and Sandra Brant are going to be busy in 2009. Just over a year ago it was announced that Sischy, editor of Interview, and her girlfriend, Sandra Brant of Brant Publications (which published Interview), were soon to become International Editors for the Italian and Spanish editions of Vanity Fair. Today, in a press release sent out by Conde Nast, it was announced that the pair will also take helm as International Editors of German and Russian Vogues. The two will work closely, it was stated in the press release, with the editors of the magazines. Jonathan Newhouse, Chairman of Conde Nast International said, "Ingrid and Sandy are a unique journalistic team, full of ideas and with strong ties to the worlds of Hollywood, fashion and the arts.".

Vogue Outlines Plan to Promote Healthy Body Image

Justin Fenner — Thu, 03 May 2012 07:50:07 PDT

Editors from all 19 international editions of Vogue have signed the brand's first Health Initiative, an agreement that they hope will "encourage a healthier approach to body image within the industry."

The Initiative - which, according to WWD was sparked by concern for the industry's use of young, thin models - asks editors to follow a set of guidelines when working with models. The stipulations include not knowingly casting models who are under 16 or who appear to have an eating disorder, and asking casting directors from modeling agencies not to send them models who they know are under 16. The agreement also lays the groundwork for the creation of a program that pairs young models with older mentors, asks designers to "consider the consequences of unrealistically small sample sizes," and encourages fashion show organizers to create a healthy environment backstage.

Eighteen editions of Vogue will start following the guidelines in their June 2012 issues; Vogue Nippon's first issue under the new rules will bow in July. British Vogue plans to run a feature on how women view nutrition in June, with contributions from models like Stella Tennant, Lily Cole, and Adriana Lima.

"Vogue believes that good health is beautiful," said Condé Nast International chairman Jonathan Newhouse. "Vogue editors around the world want the magazines to reflect their commitment to the health of the models who appear on the pages and the well-being of their readers."

Vogue's Health Initiative builds on and references similar model-health programs that have come before it. In 2006, Madrid Fashion Week became the first fashion institution to ban the use of overly skinny models. The CFDA's Health Initiative, started in 2007, asks for healthy backstage environments, and as of last year, it also banned models under 16 from walking the runway during New York Fashion Week.

Photo: Scarlett Johansson on the cover of Vogue's May 2012 issue.

Carine Roitfeld Comments on Leaving Vogue Paris, Tom Ford Responds to Speculations

Chi Diem Chau — Mon, 20 Dec 2010 16:51:53 PST

>> Carine Roitfeld announced her resignation from Vogue Paris - effective the end of January - last Friday leaving everyone in a tizzy. Many speculated that Roitfeld's next project would be with Tom Ford, but the designer spoke up claiming that nothing is currently in the works: "Carine and I have no plans to work together at the moment, and it is nothing that we have even discussed, but of course I think she is brilliant, and we are close friends so who knows about the future."

Roitfeld explained to WWD why she decided to leave Vogue Paris: "When we published our 90th anniversary issue in October, it felt almost like a double anniversary for me. I knew I wasn’t really going to stay much longer. I think it’s good to get out while you’re ahead, and I think right now, Vogue is outstanding. I’m very proud of it. I have an exceptional team." Furthermore, Roitfeld stated having issues regarding a structured work environment: "I have always been a freelancer, so when I was hired 10 years ago, I found it very difficult to have an office, an assistant, a schedule, fixed vacations. But at the same time, it was such a huge job that I said yes. It’s been an incredible adventure, but maybe in my heart and soul, I am more of a freelancer. I’m surprised I even stuck it out this long, but what made me stay is having a boss like Jonathan [Newhouse], who is an incredible man who gave me total freedom, and God knows I pushed the boundaries."

Carine also denied doing any paid consulting work during her time at Vogue Paris: "I don’t do any consulting work or advertising. I was the muse of Tom Ford and Gucci for years, but that was a long time ago. There have always been these false rumors. It’s like the talk about me going to U.S. Vogue - rumors travel fast. They are false rumors, and, of course, if I leave and I get interesting offers, I will do it. Why not, now that I can?" And the rumors did hurt her feelings: People were saying we were a corrupt magazine . . . It used to shock me in the beginning . . . One day, I was talking about it to Anna Wintour, who told me, “Look, don’t listen to anyone. Go for it and do the best you can.” She was absolutely right. You have to just harden yourself, but it’s not all that serious, really."

Rumor - Aliona Doletskaya In Pursuit of POP Editor Position?

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Nov 2010 09:29:07 PST

>> Founding Vogue Russia editor Aliona Doletskaya resigned from her position at the end of July - with her final issue of the magazine hitting stands for September 2010 - without delineating any future plans other than notifying Condé Nast International president Jonathan Newhouse that, in his words, she would like to "start a new life, probably to write a book or try her hand in a new field." Not much has been heard from Doletskaya since - save for a recent byline in the New York Times on luxury in Russia - but late last week, Derek Blasberg Tweeted, "In today's completely unsubstantiated rumors: Aliona Doletskaya, former editor-in-chief of Russian Vogue, is vying for the top gig at POP." Dasha Zhukova resigned from the POP position earlier this month. [@derekblasberg]

Anna Wintour on Leaving Vogue, Model Covers, and Fur

fashionologie — Wed, 13 May 2009 12:29:42 PDT

>> While Conde Nast chairman Si Newhouse is off in Europe, prompting rumors that something big is on the horizon, Anna Wintour sat down with Jonathan Tisch for a public chat last night. PETA members peppered the audience, heckling Wintour with shouts of "This woman skins animals alive!" Before they were removed from the room, Anna replied, "Fur is still a part of fashion, so Vogue will continue to report on it."

The discussion covered a number of topics, including the Internet - Wintour said that Vogue.com, which has been noticeably increasing in content the past couple of months, will "break out on our own" from Style.com next year. She also mentioned that Andre Leon Talley, who recently started a blog for Vogue.com, Talley Ho!, was initially dragged kicking and screaming to the Web, saying he wasn't into the modern world, but now loves blogging. Some highlights, including a hint at the next cover, from the chat - more at The Cut:

You've said it's time to move on from a job when you get too angry. Are you getting to the point where you're thinking about other options?
Well, mostly I'm thinking about the next day. I think that I have the best job in the entire world. To be honest, I don't think I'd be very good at anything else!

So will we be seeing more models and less celebrities on the cover of Vogue?
Well, tomorrow is another day. We'll never know. But we certainly do have a model tied to the next issue, yes.

Her favorite Vogue cover; how she hires at Vogue »