fashionologie

Peter Copping's First Nina Ricci Collection for Spring 2010: The Reviews Are In

fashionologie — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 13:30:26 -0700

>> To an audience of only 75, Peter Copping sent out his first runway show at Nina Ricci in the salon above the brand's Paris store. Copping, who spent the past twelve years at Louis Vuitton, took Ricci to a much more feminine, commercial place than previous Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens. “I like wearable clothes,” he told WWD. “I’m not necessarily into being too avant-garde . . . whenever we did more feminine-based collections [at Vuitton], the sales were always incredible in the stores as opposed to the more austere or hard-edged things."

The Spring 2010 show was about all about the house’s “signature codes” - bows, lingerie, lace - Copping said, and he's keen to add capsule lines of lingerie and wedding dresses soon. So what's his verdict? Hilary Alexander called the collection "charming," T staffers were fans - Anne Christensen deemed it "very pretty" and Armand Limnander "lovely" - and Elle's Joe Zee, too, was won over: "I'm not usually a fan of romance (clothes that is) but Peter Copping's Ricci debut was a slamdunk in romance. Sweet but not saccharin."

Some, however, seemed more hung up on the switch to commerciality: Los Angeles Times's Booth Moore noted, "Olivier Theyskens' Nina Ricci was all vision; Peter Copping's is all saleable product." Suzy Menkes commented: "[It] is not necessarily a bad thing for a house [to be very commercial] . . . but Mr. Copping, having staked out his pretty girl territory, needs to take her to a newer place." And Style.com's Sarah Mower is holding judgment: "At first sight Ricci is now in a safe pair of hands but the jury's still out till next season."

Proenza Schouler Go Urban Scuba for Spring 2010

fashionologie — Wed, 16 Sep 2009 18:54:07 -0700

>> Of all the shows this week, Jack McCollough's and Lazaro Hernandez's Proenza Schouler presentation had the most excitement and energy about it; Joe Zee agreed, calling it "one of the best this week." We didn't know it at the time, but a piece from the collection actually debuted on Dasha Zhukova during the POP dinner last Friday.

Tonight, the lights above flickered back and forth on the bottom floor of Milk Studios, and with three Trainas in the front row - Victoria, Vanessa, and Samantha - we got to see the full urban scuba collection, which seemed to be a continuation of their Tahiti-inspired resort 2010 collection. Neon printed minidresses mirrored the backs of tropical fish, cateye sunglasses had lifeguard-style reflective lenses, neon tops resembled long sleeve Under Armor, and tinsel and feathers fringed dresses. One girl sported beachy green-tinged hair, another purple. And of course the boys, known for their knack with accessories, didn't disappoint with rainbow-linked minibags and strappy toggle wedges.

Afterward, they told Fashion TV's Jeanne Baker they wanted to indulge in color this season, and edited out about half their potential looks from the show to leave people wanting more.

Former Vogue Paris Editor-in-Chief Joan Juliet Buck Returns to Acting

fashionologie — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 14:24:45 -0700

>> There are plenty of model-turned-actresses, but editor-turned-actress is a less populated category. Joan Juliet Buck, Vogue Paris's editor-in-chief from 1994 to 2001 and a current contributing editor at Vogue - she most recently did Christy Turlington's cover story for the August 2009 issue - was a child actress for Disney back in 1961's Greyfriars Bobby: The True Story of a Dog, and made a return to screen over the weekend in Julie & Julia, which features Meryl Streep as Julia Child.

Buck's years in Paris paid off - she plays a character with a French accent, who in her words, is "The B*tch: the cold, mean proprietor of the Cordon Bleu Cooking School in 1949, Madame Elizabeth Brassart. I have four scenes. In each scene I abuse Meryl Streep. That was my return to acting." A slice of her work in the movie - which Elle's Joe Zee thought she "played so well" - can be seen from 2:20 to 2:25 here.

So how did she end up in the movie? »

Victoria Beckham Leaves Armani Underwear Campaign to Focus on Designing; Megan Fox to Replace Her?

fashionologie — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 10:18:02 -0700

>> Just days after her latest Emporio Armani underwear ad came out, Victoria Beckham has decided not to renew her one-year contract - which was announced at the end of last October - in order to focus on her own fashion and beauty lines. In fact, in early September, she will be back at New York Fashion Week to show her Victoria Beckham Collection, which Roland Mouret has helped her with in the past.

So who's going to fill the spot she just left for Armani underwear? Elle creative director Joe Zee reports: "LA is buzzing that Megan Fox is signed to replace her." Fox would make sense; she did just attend the Armani Prive couture show at the beginning of July.

fashionologie — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 14:26:08 -0700

>> Kanye West Styles for October 2009 Elle -Avid fashion show attendee Kanye West continues to dip his hands into the industry: first it was designing Louis Vuitton kicks, which promptly sold out, then an internship at Gap - which prompted rumors of a line in the works with the retailer - and now, he's styled a shoot for Elle's October 2009 Personal Style issue, creative director Joe Zee confirmed. [FWD]

fashionologie — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 13:02:33 -0700

>> Did Kate Lanphear Influence Rihanna's New Haircut? -The Internet is in a tizzy after Rihanna debuted a new 'do involving a partially shaved head, but was she, given how fashion-savvy she is, inspired by Elle style director Kate Lanphear's look? Elle's creative director Joe Zee thinks so: "Rihanna shaves part of her head but our own Kate Lanphear has been sporting that same cut for months now." [Interview, Joe Zee Twitter]

Valentino Goes "Radical" in Black for Fall 2009 Couture

fashionologie — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 12:46:52 -0700

>> Just as editors privy to a preview hinted yesterday, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's second couture outing - for Fall 2009 - was heavy on the black, lace, feathers, and gothic look - "radical," in a word, for Valentino. As Elle's Joe Zee put it, "Not one piece of red in sight. It's a new day at Valentino. Hell, there was barely any long. Just wisps of fabric with bows and frills."

The show took place in an old convent, with the runway featuring moving images of smoke projected on screens. Philip Treacy contributed shredded veils especially for the collection, and though reception to the designers has been tepid in the past, initial reaction seems positive. Says Style.com's Derek Blasberg: "Ok, it was good. But so black! . . . Methinks [Valentino] would be proud." And Joe Zee: "Attention Hollywood starlets: Please wear short to your next red carpet. And please call Valentino for it. Short has never looked so chic."

fashionologie — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 10:31:52 -0700

>> Olivier Theyskens Taking Some Time Off? -Olivier Theyskens showed up at the Calvin Klein Collection dinner in Paris last night, and it sounds like he may just be enjoying a break from designing rather than lining up his next big job. Fellow guest Joe Zee wrote of the designer: "Yes, the rumor is true! He had the night off." And Grazia's Paula Reed, who sat next to Theyskens, tweeted: "[He's] enjoying a bit of a fashion gap year. Come back soon Olivier." [Chic Report, Joe Zee Twitter, Grazia Twitter]

fashionologie — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 11:18:51 -0700

>> Joe Zee Is Still at Elle - Apparently rumors were circulating at the end of the week that Elle creative director Joe Zee had left the magazine - which, if true, would have made for a sticky situation since he is supposed to be attending couture for the magazine next week - but rest assured, The Cut confirmed with the magazine that the rumors were just that - rumors. [The Cut Twitter]

fashionologie — Fri, 26 Jun 2009 11:47:19 -0700

>> Dior To Show Twice at Couture, Lacroix's Early Collection Reviews "Glowing"-Despite Vogue only sending a "very small" team and Elle sending two people - creative director Joe Zee and executive accessories editor Kate Davidson Hudson - John Galliano is planning to show his Fall 2009 Dior couture collection twice because he's using a smaller location this year. Meanwhile, Carlos Souza is inaugurating his return to Valentino with a big bash post-show, and early reports of Christian Lacroix's "fightback" couture collection are "pretty glowing." [FWD]