fashionologie

Gareth Pugh Didn't Sell A Piece of Clothing Until His Fourth or Fifth Show

fashionologie — Tue, 15 Mar 2011 13:28:30 PDT

>> Gareth Pugh has come a long way from living in a squat house in 2005. The road hasn't been an easy one, however, he tells Vice in its new Style Issue: "We didn’t sell anything from the poodle or gimp shows - nothing until the fourth or fifth show. My first show was such a last-minute thing. I was only really thinking about the show and not selling stuff afterward. But once you start showing, you’re on the treadmill and have to carry on." Even a couple of years ago, he says, "There was a point, right before a show, when I barely had enough money to get my team over to Paris."

But now, Pugh is definitely starting to consider the financial aspect of his brand (and perhaps explains why he leans toward short films in place of runway shows): "At the moment I feel very much between a rock and a hard place. People expect an amazing show, but in order to do that in Paris you have to sell a lot of clothes, which maybe means people have to be able to imagine the clothes on hangers."

More from Pugh in Vice:

On why he opened his first store in Hong Kong: "Rick Owens’s wife, Michelle Lamy [Pugh's backer], thinks moneyed Chinese women like to look very chic, like avant-garde punks. I just make more sense over there. In America I’m seen as a little bit niche and weird."

On his relationship with Rick Owens: "I’m closer to his wife, Michelle. He always describes himself as the distant, stern father figure and she is like the overgenerous mother. She’s very critical about what I do, which I like. It’s good to have someone who doesn’t always give you unadulterated praise."

On his strangest fashion industry experiences: "Driving to the Palace of Versailles with Jeremy Scott, Suzy Menkes, Jefferson Hack, and Anouck Lepere was pretty funny. Everyone wanted to see this Jeff Koons exhibition - Anouck tried to climb the fence, Jefferson got into a fight with a security guard, and Suzy Menkes was taking pictures. That was weird. Oh, and the time I’d booked my housemates a holiday in Gran Canaria but got flown to New York to shoot with Mario Testino. I ended up at the Met Ball afterward and found myself having a fag with Christian Slater in the toilets while David Beckham took a piss at the urinal. The toilets there are a real superstar clusterf*ck. I just couldn’t work out why I was there."

On the clothes he wears: "I never buy clothes, so I don’t really have a choice when it comes to what I wear. I am very lucky to be able to pull a lot of Rick Owens and steal some of my stuff from the factory. (I have to steal my own samples [because] I don’t get a personal order quota. It’s a license.) But other than that I buy H&M hoodies and Topshop jeans."

On why he doesn't use much color: "The designs are more about the whole thing rather than the details, and if I were to do the big shapes I do, color would maybe be too much. Pink or red would push it all over the edge."

Models in Their Natural Habitat Part Four: Backstage at Proenza Schouler, Phillip Lim, Anna Sui, and More

fashionologie — Mon, 20 Sep 2010 05:23:12 PDT

>> Now that New York Fashion Week has wound to a close, one last look at the backstage hubbub - we've seen Lily Donaldson give her best glare, Liu Wen her best stare, and plenty of kissy faces. In this installment, there's Phillip Lim making a few last minute alterations, Hanne Gaby Odiele playing coy at Anna Sui, plus behind-the-scenes snaps from Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Jeremy Scott, and L'Wren Scott.

Photos: Greg Kessler

View Slideshow ›

Richard Chai and Jeremy Scott For Alternative Apparel Launches at Refinery29

coutorture — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:15:05 PDT

Richard Chai and Jeremy Scott for Alternative Apparel

Re-imagining the classic tee, designers Richard Chai and Jeremy Scott have teamed up with Alternative Apparel founder Greg Alterman on a capsule collection. Sold exclusively at Refinery29, the lineup features a hooded minidress, long sleeve bodysuit, and turtleneck dress by Scott and ruffle-adorned tops by Chai-all in Alternative Apparel's signature, perfectly soft cotton jersey.

fashionologie — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:17:09 PDT

>> Second Season of Loic Prigent's The Day Before Confirmed for September -Documentarian Loic Prigent captured Sonia Rykiel, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, and Jean Paul Gaultier in the 36 hours leading up to their respective shows for the premiere season of the Sundance Channel's series The Day Before. As reported, he's back for a second round, having followed Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Jeremy Scott, Narciso Rodriguez, Peter Copping at Nina Ricci, and Donatella Versace at Versace during the Fall 2010 season. The new season premieres Wednesday, Sept. 8 at 10 PM. Prigent noted, “We explored the energy of New York with young labels like Alexander Wang, grandes dames like Diane von Furstenberg, energy and humor with Jeremy Scott, and couturelike precision with Narciso Rodriguez. In Paris, you see the sweetness and romanticism of Nina Ricci, and the extreme everything of Donatella Versace in Milan. All those houses are very different, which has made it such a crazy experience.” [Full Frontal Fashion]

Fashion in 50 Seconds 04/02/10 Jeremy Scott Styles Beth Ditto, Gia Coppola Films Zac Posen

coutorture — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 06:31:56 PDT

“Why did they hire me to be a designer, and then want me working on acid-washed jeans and things with rhinestones?”-Lars Nilsson on his unceremonious exit from Gianfranco Ferre.

Leonor Scherrer, the daughter of the French couturier Jean-Louis Scherrer, is building a fashion line, called Leonor Funeral Couture, to outfit the bereaved.

Gia Coppola filmed the video for Zac Posen's Target line, which will launch online later this month.

Matthew Williamson's New York Meatpacking District store gets the Gossip Girl treatment.

Jeremy Scott styles Beth Ditto in his spring 2010 Pebbles Flintstone collection for Paper magazine.

New York Fashion Week: Jeremy Scott Fall 2010

coutorture — Wed, 17 Feb 2010 12:53:41 PST

New York 02/17/10 Getty

View Slideshow ›

Loic Prigent Is Back, Documenting Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Narciso Rodriguez, and Jeremy Scott

fashionologie — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 08:43:51 PST

>> The Sundance Channel is on a mission to amp up their fashion coverage. They just launched Catwalk Countdown, a series of ten one-minute online videos highlighting designers like Erin Fetherston, Vena Cava, Lyn Devon, Chris Benz - Benz talks how he produces 98 percent of his collection within a two-block radius of his Manhattan studio, for instance - and now they're bringing back popular fashion documentarist Loic Prigent for a second season of his The Day Before series.

Prigent, who captured the likes of Sonia Rykiel, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, and Jean Paul Gaultier for the show's first season, is currently in New York, where he will film Alexander Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Narciso Rodriguez, and Jeremy Scott each in the 36 hours leading up to their shows. Prigent has been granted "full access," he told The Cut, "[because] we are discreet . . . [so designers] forget we are even there."

Who do they hope to film in London and Paris? »

Fashion in 50 Seconds 01/29/10 Kristen McMenamy For Love, Jimmy Choo Debuts Snakeskin High-Tops

coutorture — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 07:18:20 PST

Kristen McMenamy appears on latest Love cover to be released. The issue hits newsstands in five days.

Juicy Couture founders Gela Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy have left the company.

The fashion week partnership between Mac and Milk Studios expands to 32 shows (including Jeremy Scott, Proenza Schouler, and McQ by Alexander McQueen) and the duo plans to release an exclusive line of beauty products for New York Fashion Week.

Who wears the blonde undercut better-Kate Lanphear or Tilda Swinton?

First Look: Levis and House of Holland spring 2010.

On the heels of the Ugg collaboration news, Jimmy Choo features eight sneaker styles for pre-fall 2010-in suede and snakeskin, of course.

Marchesa auctions off a party dress and tickets to its New York Fashion Week presentation.

fashionologie — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 07:59:30 PST

>> Peter Jensen, Jeremy Scott Coming to New York Fashion Week -Although many designers (including Burberry, Matthew Williamson, and Jonathan Saunders) opted to show in London again for Fall 2010 after returning last season, Peter Jensen, who has historically shown in London, is headed for New York to partake in MAC at Milk Studios' second season. And Jeremy Scott - who showed in London last season and Paris the season before - announced yesterday that he will be returning to New York Fashion Week, also at MAC at Milk, for Fall 2010. [Vogue UK, @ITSJEREMYSCOTT]

Fashion in 50 Seconds 01/08/09 Chanel's Transfer Tattoos, Jeremy Scott Back to NYFW

coutorture — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 07:00:32 PST

Chanel plans to sell transfer tattoos inspired by the inked jewelry seen on spring's runway. Les Trompe L'oeil de Chanel will be sold as a set of 55 tattoos for $70 at the current exchange.

Check out L'Wren Scott's personal photographs of party days in Paris wearing Mugler, walking Chanel couture, and dates with Mick Jagger in T magazine's profile in style.

It's official, Jeremy Scott will return to New York Fashion Week to show his fall 2010 collection on February 17 at Milk Studios.

Commes de Garcons and Trenton take two.

Justin Giunta of Subversive has been named design director of jewelry at Tory Burch.