fashionologie

Marc Jacobs Looks to Yves Saint Laurent and the '70s - Things That Made Him Fall in Love with Fashion - for Spring 2011

fashionologie — Mon, 13 Sep 2010 17:27:06 PDT

>> Half an hour before Marc Jacobs's show was scheduled to start at 8 pm this evening, his team Tweeted, "Marcs ready now. Were waiting for editors." And Cathy Horyn reports that they had hoped to start at 7:45 pm. But it turns out that once again, Marc's show started right on the dot, with six models walking at once, each coming from different exits in the gold circular centerpiece, as Vivaldi's "Summer" from The Four Seasons played over the loudspeaker.

The show was pure '70s, recalling Bianca Jagger and Jodie Foster from Taxi Driver - all wide-legged trousers, frizzy hair, with oversized flower corsages and gold glitter platforms. A jolt of color, Jacobs (who took his bow in pants and Cuban heeled shoes in place of a skirt) said backstage, after last season's beige. He also cited the New York Dolls, Antonio Lopez, Yves Saint Laurent, and Calvin Klein as references, explaining that he wanted to celebrate everything that made him fall in love with fashion. Jamie Bochert, who owes her career to Marc, made her first appearance of the week, and Jourdan Dunn and Alessandra Ambrosio walked, too. Redheaded newbie Luisa Bianchin opened.

It appears that Jacobs's recent celebrity ban was lifted: Alexa Chung and Nacho Figueras were there, and Courtney Love was late and caught the tail end of the show, which ended at 8:11 pm. Jacobs's ex-fiance, Lorenzo Martone, gave him a hug and kiss backstage afterward. And rumor has it that the show's set will do double duty as the Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 campaign backdrop, to be shot in tandem with the show.

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Fashion in 50 Seconds 08/04/10 Esteban Cortazar is Back, Coco Rocha Blogs Her Honeymoon

coutorture — Wed, 04 Aug 2010 06:47:56 PDT

Jamie Bochert talks to Vogue.com UK about meeting one of her icons, Patti Smith.

After leaving Emanuel Ungaro last year, Esteban Cortazar is back with a new collection.

Coco Rocha blogs and posts photos from her honeymoon in Corsica.

Elle editor in chief Robbie Myers joins Twitter.

On August 18 Target will host Target Kaleidoscopic Fashion Spectacular-part light show, part runway show and part dance theater-at the Standard Hotel in New York.

Jamie Bochert Serenades Crowd at Haider Ackermann's Pitti W Show in Florence

fashionologie — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:46:28 PDT

>> Haider Ackermann was invited to present a Pre-Spring 2011 collection - even though he does not typically do pre-collections - as part of Pitti W, the womenswear portion of Pitti Uomo currently going on in Florence. He promised Style.com that "my friend Jamie Bochert will be playing piano and singing" at the show, and that's just what happened yesterday.

Chandeliers were hung from the ceiling at the Palazzo Corsini, where the show took place, and Bochert was the first model out, walking in silence before taking a seat at a grand piano. She opened the the show with a piano medley, which included a rendition of Bob Dylan's "Knockin' on Heaven's Door," and was accompanied by a violinist and a cellist. Garance Dore, who captured the show, described the proceedings: "I’ve never heard her voice and I was absolutely blown away. It was soft, suave, and dreamy, like a summer night. Then slowly, to her music, the models started out. After a few sublime songs, Jamie got up. The show was over."

A video of Bochert's performance, below.

The video! »

The 2010 CFDA Awards Are Here! Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Jason Wu Take Home Wins

fashionologie — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 19:07:24 PDT

>> This evening at Lincoln Center's Alice Tully Hall, fashion's finest gathered for the 2010 CFDA Awards. Jak & Jil's Tommy Ton snapped photos of the arrivals, J.Crew's Jenna Lyons introduced herself to Isabel Toledo, and the ever-punctual Anna Wintour was later than usual, appearing after the pre-awards cocktails were in full swing.

Wintour put on her signature shades for the ceremony itself, but off they came when International Award winner Christopher Bailey thanked her (along with Tom Ford and Donna Karan) - in fact, she was beaming. Later, she got on stage to present Michael Kors with his Lifetime Achievement Award - he received a standing ovation - and told a story about how she went on a trip to Jamaica with Kors; when Ralph Lauren arrived, Kors got in the ocean and stayed there for hours because he didn't want Lauren to see him in his swimsuit.

Speaking of Lauren, he received the Popular Vote for the second year running - although he wasn't in attendance this evening. Sarah Jessica Parker, dressed in a custom gown by new Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton, presented Lee Alexander McQueen posthumously with the Special Tribute Award, noting that the designer had "the most beautiful hands I've ever seen," before models took the stage in the designer's last works.

Accepting her Fashion Icon Award, Iman thanked her parents for the longest neck on any model at any go-see in the world and joked to husband David Bowie: "Move over. You're not the only icon in the house." And finally, Marc Jacobs scored the Womenwear Award - he thanked bloggers for his win and said to Robert Duffy: "i want to thank [Duffy], without you this dream would never have come true."

And the winners are . . . (nominees here):

Accessory Designer of the Year: Alexis Bittar
Popular Vote Award: Ralph Lauren
Menswear Designer of the Year: Marcus Wainwright and David Neville for Rag & Bone
Swarovski Award for Menswear: Richard Chai
Swarovski Award for Womenswear: Jason Wu
Swarovski Award for Accessories: Alexander Wang
Womenswear Designer of the Year: Marc Jacobs

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Jamie Bochert and Ballet Star James Applewhite in V Magazine's "Body Electric"

coutorture — Tue, 11 May 2010 11:52:22 PDT

In a mix of body-baring looks from Givenchy, Balmain, Azzedine Alaïa, Rick Owens, and Yves Saint Laurent, Jamie Bochert poses with the American Ballet Theater's James Applewhite in a 20-page spread for V magazine's "Summer Scorcher" issue. In front of the camera lens of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin and with styling by Joe McKenna, Bochert transforms into a bronzed goddess with a penchant for acid hues and leopard prints. V magazine, issue #65 with cover girl Scarlett Johansson, is on newsstands today.

Source: V magazine

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Marc Jacobs on Fall 2010: "It's Not About Fashion, It's About Style"

fashionologie — Mon, 15 Feb 2010 18:41:58 PST

>> At 7:56 pm EST this evening, a booming male voice came over the loudspeakers at the Armory in New York, asking everyone to take their seats, the Marc Jacobs show was about to start. Meanwhile, the rest of the audience, via live.marcjacobs.com, had already taken their seats at home and were watching. The lights went down in the space, covered floor, wall, and ceiling with corrogated cardboard. Then, a spotlight appeared on Marc as he and Robert Duffy walked across the room to tear down a floor to ceiling segment of brown paper, revealing all the models, standing in a giant wooden crate, behind.

Tatiana Cotliar opened the pared-back, neutral-dominated collection to the "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" soundtrack, which featured a mix of three different renditions of the song. The 56-look collection was modeled by a cast who exited the box one at a time and included Marc by Marc Jacobs stylists Camille Bidault-Waddington and Suzanne Deeken, plus two girls who were pulled off the street; Jamie Bochert closed.

There was no finale procession, just Marc taking a bow in a Bottega Veneta suit; it really seems like Marc is ready for his show to be about the clothes again, something Robert Duffy suggested recently: no celebrities front row (just Crystal Renn - Andre Leon Talley was even left standing after coming late), a one song soundtrack, a brown paper set, very few recognizable models. Even the after-party is staff-only this year. "It's not about fashion, it's about style. That's why we used 'real' girls," he said post-show.

And people seem to be responding. "Beautiful show, wistful. Fab coats with glossy, shaggy fur. A-line skirts," Cathy Horyn remarked. Paper's Kim Hastreiter wrote: "Marc Jacobs show was the most beautiful of his career IMO."

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fashionologie — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 19:50:47 PST

>> More Intel on Marc Jacobs Fall 2010, As (Basically) Confirmed By Robert Duffy -As rumored, Marc Jacobs definitely held street casting yesterday at Milk Studios for his Fall 2010 show. But there's more - sounds like he's going to have to find a new fit model next season - Robert Duffy seems to think she leaked information about the collection. Earlier today, The Cut reported from a "well-placed source" that the collection is almost entirely cream and beige, the shoes are Mary Jane-style flats (or minimal heel) worn with socks, the hair is messy, the music is "Somewhere Over the Rainbow," and the look is '40s style silk camisoles, wide-leg pantsuits, and trapeze skirts. As for the street casting, The Cut's source says Marc is looking for an army of Jamie Bochert lookalikes, and casting agents had to dig deeper than what agencies had to offer to fulfill the bill. Just in the the last hour, Robert Duffy Tweeted, "Well all is not a secret any more. New York mag. Got all the info. Go on Newyorkmag.com," followed by: "Read the new York mag article. Our fit model spilled it all!" [The Cut, @robertcduffy, @robertcduffy]

First Look: Jamie Bochert for Lanvin Women Spring 2010; Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin for Lanvin Men

fashionologie — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 14:45:56 PST

>> With a track record of Lanvin ad campaigns that are never like those of any other house, Alber Elbaz wasn't going to ruin his reputation for Spring 2010. Instead of the prostrate model shots that have become so prevalent, Elbaz asked for "a bit of action." Hence, Jamie Bochert, photographed by Steven Meisel running through the hall of a studio in New York. “She moved so fast, even the chandelier was moving with her,” Elbaz noted. Perhaps he was inspired by Bochert's recent 12-block chase after a thief? She was successful in reclaiming her bag: “That’s the kind of girl I like." Interestingly enough, you wouldn't know it was Jamie from this first image - her face seems to have escaped the lens.

Lanvin also went with a new concept for the men's side of things. Instead of just employing married couple Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin to do the photography honors, they star as well. “He’s not our model,” Elbaz said of Matadin. “We just photographed him in our clothes, and it becomes very believable. Also, to see him through the eyes of his wife and to see the love story between them - it’s a very emotional campaign.” Of the red airbrushing on Inez? “It took two hours to paint."

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Fashion in 50 Seconds 12/09/09 Jamie Bochert for Marc Jacobs, Tom Binns for Disney

coutorture — Wed, 09 Dec 2009 10:54:10 PST

A first look at Jamie Bochert for Marc Jacobs spring 2010 photographed by Juergen Teller.

Tavi pens a column on spring fashion for Harper's Bazaar.

Holiday kicks for the kids in red, blue, green, and black velvet by Jeffrey x Keds.

Elton John and David Furnish hold a closet sale.

Brown (champagne) diamonds enter the high-end market.

The Guardian names the 25 most powerful people in British fashion. List includes Sir Philip Green, Kate Moss, Guido Paloa, Pat McGrath, and John Galliano.

Sarah Mower predicts great things-in the forms of pencil cases and hair ties-for Luella Bartley.

Laurence Dacade stops by Vogue House for a preview of her latest collection.

Disney commissions Tom Binns to create a jewelry collection inspired by five "Alice in Wonderland" characters.

fashionologie — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 13:41:03 PST

>> First Look: Jamie Bochert for Marc Jacobs Spring 2010 -It's only appropriate, since her career owes its second wind to opening a Marc Jacobs show, that Jamie Bochert would lend her jolie laide look for the brand's Spring 2010 ads. Ever ironic Juergen Teller's lens is, Bochert - who is also said to be the face of Lanvin this season - takes a balletic pose in the first image out, tulle surrounding her, while standing in a toilet. [Models.com]