fashionologie

Fashion Press Won't See Hedi Slimane's First Two YSL Collections

Justin Fenner — Tue, 22 May 2012 12:09:16 PDT

Only buyers are invited to see Hedi Slimane's first two collections for Yves Saint Laurent, meaning virtually no one - including press - will see his women's Resort 2013 and men's Spring 2013 clothing before they go on sale.

A spokeswoman for YSL confirmed the press blackout to WWD on Tuesday, explaining that Slimane wants to make his first major fashion statement for the house when he presents his women's Spring 2013 collection on the runway during Paris Fashion Week. The "transitional" Resort and men's Spring collections will be shown to buyers in late June or early July.

Slimane succeeded Stefano Pilati as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent in March. He had been the head menswear designer at Dior, but left in 2007 to pursue a career in photography. His new position at YSL marks a return to the house where his career started: After graduating from the Ecole du Louvre, Slimane was hired as a marketing assistant for YSL in 1997, then rose through the ranks before becoming designer of YSL Rive Gauche Homme.

Pierre Bergé Gives His Blessing to New YSL Designer Hedi Slimane

fashionologie — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:57:32 PDT

Yves Saint Laurent at his final couture show in 2002.

>> Pierre Bergé, who lived with Yves Saint Laurent for almost 50 years, says new YSL designer Hedi Slimane is in for an uphill battle - but Bergé believes Slimane is ready for the task.

Bergé told T Magazine that filling Saint Laurent's shoes is "a great problem, very complicated, to recreate the work of a genius. Like trying to rewrite Faulkner," Bergé said. "To put your stamp on the name of Yves Saint Laurent requires someone who has talent, conviction, rigor, a demanding nature and a great sense of color."

And Slimane, who was announced as the successor to former YSL creative director Stefano Pilati earlier this month, has that - or at least Bergé thinks he does. He called Bergé "a man of talent who can preserve the genius and legacy of Yves Saint Laurent."

Bergé is currently in Denver, CO, exhibiting some 200 of Saint Laurent's finest pieces at the Denver Art Museum. The retrospective will only show in Denver and will run through July 8.

Hedi Slimane Hires Old Dior Homme Collaborator For New Job at YSL

fashionologie — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:28:13 PDT

>> Hedi Slimane's new job as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent was just announced two weeks ago, and he's wasting no time in assembling his new staff.

>Vogue UK reports that Slimane has hired Laurence Kleinknecht as YSL's worldwide press director. Kleinknecht has managed her public relations company for the last 16 years and served as head of PR for Dior Homme when Slimane was its head designer. She also represented him when he left Dior Homme to focus on photography.

Kleinknecht's website says she currently represents DJ Chloe Thevenin and handbag designer Delphine Delafon.

Hedi Slimane Confirmed as Yves Saint Laurent's New Creative Director (Update)

Christina Perez — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 05:53:51 PST

>> It's official. Yves Saint Laurent has named Hedi Slimane its new creative director, effective immediately. In a statement released earlier today, the company said that Slimane will "assume total creative responsibility" at the house, but will also continue to pursue his career in photography. "Hedi Slimane's exceptional talent and understanding of the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent heralds a promising new chapter in the story of the maison," CEO Paul Deneve said. Slimane's first outing for the label will be the Resort collection, presented in June.

The sentiment was echoed by PPR Chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault. "As one of the most important French fashion houses, Yves Saint Laurent today possesses formidable potential, which I am confident will be successfully harnessed and revealed through the vision of Hedi Slimane."

Slimane replaces Stefano Pilati, whose contract with the house ended Monday after a successful - if sometimes rocky - eight years.

A First Look at all Three Covers from Dasha Zhukova's New Garage Magazine (NSFW)

Christina Perez — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 12:07:17 PDT

>> Here's the first glimpse of Dasha Zhukova's much-anticipated new magazine, Garage. Hitting newstands September 5th, the magazine's main editorial - as well as one of it's three covers - was photographed by Hedi Slimane and features some provactively-placed tattoos. "The 'INKED' project is really emblematic of the mission of the magazine - bringing together individuals from diverse creative fields to produce something compelling and bold," Zhukova said of the magazine's inaugural theme. Jeff Koons, Richard Prince, Paul McCarthy, and Damien Hirst were all tapped to design tattoos for the issue; it's Hirst's version that graces the main cover, which ships with a peel-back modesty sticker in the shape of a butterfly (left).

The two alternative covers of Garage feature the work of prominent artists as well: one cover features a Nick Knight and Dinos Chapman image of a doll house with a Lily Donaldson doll playing inside, while the other cover features a tattoo design created by Richard Prince. Despite the alternative covers, W.H. Smith has already banned the magazine from sale at its stores in England. However, Barnes & Noble will stock the magazine.

Click through to see all three covers from the first issue.

View Slideshow ›

Report - Marc Jacobs Could Be Headed to Dior and Phoebe Philo to Louis Vuitton

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 07:14:24 PDT

>> A couple of weeks after rumors popped up suggesting that Marc Jacobs was at the top of the pack to take over as Dior's new designer, reports corroborate that the rumors just might be true.

According to WWD, Bernard Arnault is in talks with Jacobs about moving from Louis Vuitton to Dior, and meetings have reportedly been scheduled in Paris this week between Dior officials and legal representatives for Jacobs. Jacobs, who signed on as Vuitton's artistic director in 1997, has been in the midst of renewing his employment contract at Vuitton, but those discussions are said to have been put on hold, pending the outcome of Jacobs's discussions with Dior.

One source cautioned WWD that deal with Jacobs is not done, but both the designer and Dior management are so far "excited" about the prospect. If the deal goes through, Jacobs will get his first opportunity as a couturier, and his business partner Robert Duffy would come with him. Dior declined to comment on the reports, and Jacobs could not be reached for comment.

As for who would replace Jacobs at Vuitton, it sounds like Phoebe Philo could be first in line. LVMH has already reportedly held preliminary discussions with Philo, who is said to be "intrigued" by the project. If the shuffling plays out, it's reportedly likely she would design Vuitton in addition to Celine.

WWD reports that a number of potential candidates have been approached to succeed John Galliano, who exited Dior in March, including Alber Elbaz, Nicolas Ghesquière, Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Hedi Slimane. Elbaz and Ghesquiere, who both have equity stakes in and strong commitments to the houses they design for, have withdrawn themselves from the running, and Burton is said to have rebuffed overtures. Talks with Ackermann and Slimane, meanwhile, did not end in an agreement. As for Riccardo Tisci, he is still considered a dark-horse candidate, and has been championed by Delphine Arnault, Dior deputy managing director and Bernard Arnault's daughter.

Is Something Up at Pierre Cardin?

fashionologie — Tue, 28 Jun 2011 12:49:33 PDT

>> Is change on the horizon for the house of Pierre Cardin? There are certainly rumors floating around that would perpetrate as much. Earlier this month, shortly after Hedi Slimane confirmed that he plans to return to fashion design, commenters on The Imagist suggested that he may be headed to Pierre Cardin. And then this morning, The Imagist himself tweeted, "You will witness the return of Pierre Cardin to ultra-blue chip relevancy," suggesting that something is indeed a-brewing.

Just last week, Cardin said that in light of his age, he wants to hand his empire over to new owners soon: “A decision is fairly imminent. I want to do it this year. I am almost 89, you know. I might be alert for another two, three years, but after that, I’ll be a little bit senile.”

His minimum asking price remains one billion euros ($1.4 billion), despite criticism that the price is too steep for a business based mainly on licenses. “I field offers every single day,” Cardin noted. “Let’s do the math briefly. There are some 100 clothing products for men, women and children. There are roughly 100 countries. On average, I’m asking for one million euros [$1.4 million] per product and per country. That’s 10 billion euros. Wouldn’t you give one million euros to own the license for Pierre Cardin suits, for example? It’s nothing.”

Cardin added that he is currently leaning towards a plan by British-based investors to list the company on the stock exchange and keep him on as CEO. But, as WWD notes: "The famously mercurial designer could still change his mind."

Hedi Slimane Confirms He Plans To Return to Fashion Design

fashionologie — Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:01:23 PDT

>> Hedi Slimane, who last acted as creative director of Dior Homme before leaving the brand in 2007 (and has since focusing on his photography) has confirmed that he does indeed plan to make a comeback at some point: "Yes, of course I am [intending to return to fashion design], but I’m really down to earth with fashion, and I have a business and brand-oriented mind. I know what it takes to make a brand strong in the long term in a global economy. Besides design and communication, I need to make sure I have the right tools to make a new design project successful in the long run."

Slimane notes that his designs would always be for a luxury customer; when asked whether he would collaborate with a mass retailer, he replied: "No, never. I could do my own jeans line, for instance, because I have legitimacy in launching the skinny jeans in fashion, and jeans for me feel like a real noble item in fashion, a social territory almost. On the other hand, I don’t like the collusion between high fashion design and high street. You have to know where you stand. I belong to luxury fashion. That’s what I’ve always felt and embraced. I like the best quality, the best fabrics and the most creative field in fashion. I will stay consistent. I belong to this world."

Man About Town Dedicates Issue to Hedi Slimane's Los Angeles; Dasha Zhukova to Guest Edit Vogue Russia's June 2011 Art Issue

fashionologie — Fri, 22 Apr 2011 09:34:42 PDT

>> The Spring/Summer 2011 issue of Paris-based biannual Man About Town is devoted to Hedi Slimane's Los Angeles and is stuffed cover to cover with his signature black-and-white images featuring skinny youths. Plus, there's a spread of a tomboy Agyness Deyn - a preview of the issue above and in the video below. “This issue is all about the creative or artistic community in Los Angeles, not the well-known Hollywood side, but rather the subcultures, something like a tribute to ‘indie California,’ ” Slimane explained to Style.com. "The LA portfolio might be somehow one of the most personal and intimate projects I have done in ten years."

And speaking of dedicated issues, Dasha Zhukova, who is rumored to be launching a new magazine, is set to be guest editor of Vogue Russia's June 2011 Art Issue. A preview can be seen here.

Riccardo Tisci Reportedly Lobbying for Dior Job; Plus, the Other Designers on LVMH's Short List

fashionologie — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 12:08:17 PDT

>> LVMH is taking its time with the announcement of Dior's new designer, and it sounds like the decision still has yet to be made. At a recent shareholders' meeting, Bernard Arnault said the plan was to interview a number of candidates before making the call when "conviction" arrives.

But who's reportedly on the short list of candidates Bernard Arnault's advisors have submitted? Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Olivier Theyskens, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann, Prabal Gurung, and Sarah Burton. However, a source in Paris told WWD that LVMH is placing less importance on marquee names and focusing rather on “someone who understands Dior and fits the needs of the company.”

While Arnault, chairman of the board at Dior, is sure to get the final say on the appointee, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who has helmed the company since 1998, and Delphine Arnault (Bernard's daughter), deputing managing director at Dior and widely viewed as the eventual LVMH heir apparent, are also expected to weigh in. Apparently Dior execs are also receiving unsolicited designer suggestions from top editors and even shareholders.

Delphine, for her part, is seen as a champion of Riccardo Tisci; the Givenchy designer has reportedly been lobbying for the position as well, sketching out his vision for the brand. Bernard Arnault, meanwhile, is reportedly transfixed by royalty, and if Sarah Burton does dress Kate Middleton for her wedding at the end of the month (despite Burton's and the McQueen company's denials), she may pull ahead in the race. Arnault would be keen to launch the new Dior alongside the newly-married couple; Princess Diana, after all, helped catapult the brand's image in 1995 when she wore a Lady Dior bag and then in 1996 when she wore a midnight blue, bias-cut Dior gown by John Galliano to the Costume Institute Gala.

In the meantime, design duties are falling on Dior's in-house design studios, headed by Bill Gaytten, who has worked beside Galliano since the '80s. They're already creating the Cruise 2012 collection and have started in on the upcoming Fall 2011 couture collection, in preparation for its debut in July.