fashionologie

A First Look at all Three Covers from Dasha Zhukova's New Garage Magazine (NSFW)

Christina Perez — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 12:07:17 PDT

>> Here's the first glimpse of Dasha Zhukova's much-anticipated new magazine, Garage. Hitting newstands September 5th, the magazine's main editorial - as well as one of it's three covers - was photographed by Hedi Slimane and features some provactively-placed tattoos. "The 'INKED' project is really emblematic of the mission of the magazine - bringing together individuals from diverse creative fields to produce something compelling and bold," Zhukova said of the magazine's inaugural theme. Jeff Koons, Richard Prince, Paul McCarthy, and Damien Hirst were all tapped to design tattoos for the issue; it's Hirst's version that graces the main cover, which ships with a peel-back modesty sticker in the shape of a butterfly (left).

The two alternative covers of Garage feature the work of prominent artists as well: one cover features a Nick Knight and Dinos Chapman image of a doll house with a Lily Donaldson doll playing inside, while the other cover features a tattoo design created by Richard Prince. Despite the alternative covers, W.H. Smith has already banned the magazine from sale at its stores in England. However, Barnes & Noble will stock the magazine.

Click through to see all three covers from the first issue.

View Slideshow ›

Report - Marc Jacobs Could Be Headed to Dior and Phoebe Philo to Louis Vuitton

fashionologie — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 07:14:24 PDT

>> A couple of weeks after rumors popped up suggesting that Marc Jacobs was at the top of the pack to take over as Dior's new designer, reports corroborate that the rumors just might be true.

According to WWD, Bernard Arnault is in talks with Jacobs about moving from Louis Vuitton to Dior, and meetings have reportedly been scheduled in Paris this week between Dior officials and legal representatives for Jacobs. Jacobs, who signed on as Vuitton's artistic director in 1997, has been in the midst of renewing his employment contract at Vuitton, but those discussions are said to have been put on hold, pending the outcome of Jacobs's discussions with Dior.

One source cautioned WWD that deal with Jacobs is not done, but both the designer and Dior management are so far "excited" about the prospect. If the deal goes through, Jacobs will get his first opportunity as a couturier, and his business partner Robert Duffy would come with him. Dior declined to comment on the reports, and Jacobs could not be reached for comment.

As for who would replace Jacobs at Vuitton, it sounds like Phoebe Philo could be first in line. LVMH has already reportedly held preliminary discussions with Philo, who is said to be "intrigued" by the project. If the shuffling plays out, it's reportedly likely she would design Vuitton in addition to Celine.

WWD reports that a number of potential candidates have been approached to succeed John Galliano, who exited Dior in March, including Alber Elbaz, Nicolas Ghesquière, Sarah Burton, Haider Ackermann and Hedi Slimane. Elbaz and Ghesquiere, who both have equity stakes in and strong commitments to the houses they design for, have withdrawn themselves from the running, and Burton is said to have rebuffed overtures. Talks with Ackermann and Slimane, meanwhile, did not end in an agreement. As for Riccardo Tisci, he is still considered a dark-horse candidate, and has been championed by Delphine Arnault, Dior deputy managing director and Bernard Arnault's daughter.

Is Something Up at Pierre Cardin?

fashionologie — Tue, 28 Jun 2011 12:49:33 PDT

>> Is change on the horizon for the house of Pierre Cardin? There are certainly rumors floating around that would perpetrate as much. Earlier this month, shortly after Hedi Slimane confirmed that he plans to return to fashion design, commenters on The Imagist suggested that he may be headed to Pierre Cardin. And then this morning, The Imagist himself tweeted, "You will witness the return of Pierre Cardin to ultra-blue chip relevancy," suggesting that something is indeed a-brewing.

Just last week, Cardin said that in light of his age, he wants to hand his empire over to new owners soon: “A decision is fairly imminent. I want to do it this year. I am almost 89, you know. I might be alert for another two, three years, but after that, I’ll be a little bit senile.”

His minimum asking price remains one billion euros ($1.4 billion), despite criticism that the price is too steep for a business based mainly on licenses. “I field offers every single day,” Cardin noted. “Let’s do the math briefly. There are some 100 clothing products for men, women and children. There are roughly 100 countries. On average, I’m asking for one million euros [$1.4 million] per product and per country. That’s 10 billion euros. Wouldn’t you give one million euros to own the license for Pierre Cardin suits, for example? It’s nothing.”

Cardin added that he is currently leaning towards a plan by British-based investors to list the company on the stock exchange and keep him on as CEO. But, as WWD notes: "The famously mercurial designer could still change his mind."

Hedi Slimane Confirms He Plans To Return to Fashion Design

fashionologie — Thu, 09 Jun 2011 09:01:23 PDT

>> Hedi Slimane, who last acted as creative director of Dior Homme before leaving the brand in 2007 (and has since focusing on his photography) has confirmed that he does indeed plan to make a comeback at some point: "Yes, of course I am [intending to return to fashion design], but I’m really down to earth with fashion, and I have a business and brand-oriented mind. I know what it takes to make a brand strong in the long term in a global economy. Besides design and communication, I need to make sure I have the right tools to make a new design project successful in the long run."

Slimane notes that his designs would always be for a luxury customer; when asked whether he would collaborate with a mass retailer, he replied: "No, never. I could do my own jeans line, for instance, because I have legitimacy in launching the skinny jeans in fashion, and jeans for me feel like a real noble item in fashion, a social territory almost. On the other hand, I don’t like the collusion between high fashion design and high street. You have to know where you stand. I belong to luxury fashion. That’s what I’ve always felt and embraced. I like the best quality, the best fabrics and the most creative field in fashion. I will stay consistent. I belong to this world."

Man About Town Dedicates Issue to Hedi Slimane's Los Angeles; Dasha Zhukova to Guest Edit Vogue Russia's June 2011 Art Issue

fashionologie — Fri, 22 Apr 2011 09:34:42 PDT

>> The Spring/Summer 2011 issue of Paris-based biannual Man About Town is devoted to Hedi Slimane's Los Angeles and is stuffed cover to cover with his signature black-and-white images featuring skinny youths. Plus, there's a spread of a tomboy Agyness Deyn - a preview of the issue above and in the video below. “This issue is all about the creative or artistic community in Los Angeles, not the well-known Hollywood side, but rather the subcultures, something like a tribute to ‘indie California,’ ” Slimane explained to Style.com. "The LA portfolio might be somehow one of the most personal and intimate projects I have done in ten years."

And speaking of dedicated issues, Dasha Zhukova, who is rumored to be launching a new magazine, is set to be guest editor of Vogue Russia's June 2011 Art Issue. A preview can be seen here.

Riccardo Tisci Reportedly Lobbying for Dior Job; Plus, the Other Designers on LVMH's Short List

fashionologie — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 12:08:17 PDT

>> LVMH is taking its time with the announcement of Dior's new designer, and it sounds like the decision still has yet to be made. At a recent shareholders' meeting, Bernard Arnault said the plan was to interview a number of candidates before making the call when "conviction" arrives.

But who's reportedly on the short list of candidates Bernard Arnault's advisors have submitted? Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Olivier Theyskens, Nicholas Ghesquiere, Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann, Prabal Gurung, and Sarah Burton. However, a source in Paris told WWD that LVMH is placing less importance on marquee names and focusing rather on “someone who understands Dior and fits the needs of the company.”

While Arnault, chairman of the board at Dior, is sure to get the final say on the appointee, Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who has helmed the company since 1998, and Delphine Arnault (Bernard's daughter), deputing managing director at Dior and widely viewed as the eventual LVMH heir apparent, are also expected to weigh in. Apparently Dior execs are also receiving unsolicited designer suggestions from top editors and even shareholders.

Delphine, for her part, is seen as a champion of Riccardo Tisci; the Givenchy designer has reportedly been lobbying for the position as well, sketching out his vision for the brand. Bernard Arnault, meanwhile, is reportedly transfixed by royalty, and if Sarah Burton does dress Kate Middleton for her wedding at the end of the month (despite Burton's and the McQueen company's denials), she may pull ahead in the race. Arnault would be keen to launch the new Dior alongside the newly-married couple; Princess Diana, after all, helped catapult the brand's image in 1995 when she wore a Lady Dior bag and then in 1996 when she wore a midnight blue, bias-cut Dior gown by John Galliano to the Costume Institute Gala.

In the meantime, design duties are falling on Dior's in-house design studios, headed by Bill Gaytten, who has worked beside Galliano since the '80s. They're already creating the Cruise 2012 collection and have started in on the upcoming Fall 2011 couture collection, in preparation for its debut in July.

Carine Roitfeld Announces Her First Post-Vogue Paris Gig

fashionologie — Wed, 23 Mar 2011 21:36:04 PDT

>> Carine Roitfeld was spotted a couple of days ago in New York, and it will likely be happening more often in the next few months. Barneys New York has asked Roitfeld to act as a guest editor, muse, and stylist for a multifaceted Fall 2011 initiative.

Roitfeld will style and edit Barneys' Fall 2011 catalogue, campaign (to be shot by Mario Sorrenti), and mailers, as well as put her touch on the retailer's Madison Avenue windows, to be unveiled in September. “It’s very exciting,” Roitfeld said. “It’s a new kind of project for me. It’s good to have a new life, because now I can do projects that I never dreamed of before. For me, Barneys has always been the biggest name in luxury department stores, so to be able to participate in this project with them, and be visible during the next fashion week in New York, is my dream come true. To a French girl, it’s a big, big dream.”

The collaboration came up after a conversation with Barneys CEO Mark Lee after Roitfeld announced she was leaving Vogue Paris. Barneys creative director Dennis Freedman explained that the campaign will reflect “the woman that [Roitfeld] is and her personal style, which we feel is the perfect reflection of our customer. She is the ideal muse as well as editor. She has a unique and extraordinary personal style. She appeals to all ages. She is independent and strong, and yet she is completely feminine. She is a woman of the world, which we like to think our customer is, as well.” It remains unclear whether Roitfeld herself will appear in the ad campaign.

Sorrenti is also expected to shoot a short film in New York and Paris for Barneys, with Roitfeld as the focus. “I am hoping to capture something very personal, a portrait of her in a way,” Sorrenti said. “When Carine and I are together, it’s fun, and she is really cool and really herself, and it’s that intimacy that I want to capture. She has a great sense of humor, and she is very provocative and very free in the way that she doesn’t plan about who she is and what she is going to say. She is very natural, which is great.”

This is Roitfeld's first publicly announced project since leaving Vogue Paris, and it sounds like she plans to stay a free agent for the time being. She says of recent rumors: “Each day it’s changing. One day I am going to Dior with Riccardo Tisci, the next day I am going to Saint Laurent with Hedi Slimane. I don’t think it’s very nice for the designer at Saint Laurent, and it’s just rumors. What I know is that I now have my freedom and I will keep my freedom forever. I am very excited to have this freedom and to have projects like the one at Barneys.”

As for what her future might actually hold, she says: “I am sure that one day I will, even if it’s not my own magazine, do special stories for magazines and maybe something on the Internet. I have projects and opportunities coming on. The only sure thing I know is that I will keep my freedom. I can be a muse for a designer, I can do work for some magazines, and do advertising, and maybe something like Barneys, but still keep my freedom.”

Hedi Slimane on Fashion's Obsession with Celebrity - "Nothing Looks Worse Than a Dress on a Red Carpet"

fashionologie — Fri, 18 Mar 2011 15:02:13 PDT

>> Hedi Slimane is consistently rumored to be heading back to the designing side of fashion, but for now, he seems quite content as a photographer: "It seems quite refreshing to be on this side of fashion, to have the distance and freedom. The fashion system has been busy keeping up with broadband and blogging/social networking. It is not always for the best, but it did give fashion a global audience. The unfortunate outcome might be the obsession and collusion between the celebrity culture and high fashion. It is just a big global mess of random endorsement. Nothing looks worse than a dress or a suit on a red carpet. It is an ongoing tragedy of cheap fashion on cheap celebrities, followed by ubercheap comments. I only like designers’ clothes on models. Good models have an inner understanding of the clothes and design." [Style File]

Rumor - Riccardo Tisci to Replace Galliano at Dior, Haider Ackermann to Givenchy, and Hedi Slimane to Yves Saint Laurent

fashionologie — Thu, 03 Mar 2011 08:42:33 PST

>> Riccardo Tisci is regarded as a favorite to succeed John Galliano at Dior - he already works for LVMH at Givenchy, and as a source told Racked, "Givenchy is a training ground for Dior, just like for Galliano in the '90s" (Galliano was creative director at Givenchy before joining Dior in 1996).

Now, Fashionista reports: "The latest gossip [at Paris Fashion Week] goes something like this: Riccardo Tisci will indeed replace Galliano at Christian Dior, Haider Ackermann will slip into Tisci’s spot at Givenchy, and despite YSL’s vehement denial otherwise, Hedi Slimane is about to take over for Stefano Pilati. Oh, and yes, Carine Roitfeld is coming along for the ride."

Vogue UK heard similarly regarding Pilati and Saint Laurent: "Fashion insiders close to the action in Paris suggest that a major fashion reshuffle could be set in to motion in the coming week - and may be sparked by the rumoured appointment of Hedi Slimane and Carine Roitfeld as the new creative team at the helm of YSL. Nothing has been confirmed by the brand, but our sources suggest that - despite YSL protestations to the contrary - Pilati may be replaced."

Galliano Aftermath - Fall 2011 Christian Dior Show to Go On; Plus, Early Replacement Speculation

fashionologie — Tue, 01 Mar 2011 08:40:54 PST

>> In the aftermath of John Galliano's dismissal, it is understood that Christian Dior plans to go ahead with its runway show on Friday. The Fall 2011 collection to be shown will be Galliano's last for Dior. Will the usual suspects be in attendance in light of the scandal? Time will tell.

And WSJ's Christina Binkley predicts via Twitter: "Don't expect the Galliano thing to end easily. French gov't will likely require a process, and there's the Galliano line to contend with." She's referring to the fate of Galliano's eponymous label - which, like Dior, is owned by LVMH. It also is expected to show as usual, but as for guest attendance, it sounds like even the label's own PR is unsure - they apparently sent out an email today asking attendees to confirm their presence. And will Kate Moss continue to have Galliano design her wedding dress?

For the conspiracy theorists, Fashionista reports: "We’re hearing rumors that the video was from October and released this week because Dior has wanted Galliano out for some time. It’s true, the timing of all this does seem suspect – the quickness with which Dior put Galliano on suspension, and the subsequent allegation that followed, capped by the release of video, the final nail in Galliano’s coffin. Word is Galliano’s alcoholism (he was often reported to be seen drunk at La Perle) and bigotry had been problems for some time." And Fashion Television's Jeanne Beker tweets: "I've seen Galliano rant and rave before. He really does need help. I love the guy (or thought I did) but am sickened by what's gone on."

So who will succeed Galliano? T's Horacio Silva tweets: "So John Galliano has been fired. Who's going to get the call - Riccardo Tisci or Alber Elbaz?" And the International Herald Tribune's Jessica Michault responds: "The safe bet is Riccardo Tisci." Other names that have been thrown around on Twitter are Olivier Theyskens, Hedi Slimane, and Haider Ackermann.